I purchased my C5 back in January, well today the my AC belt broke and the main belt teeth ripped off. When I went to take the belt off the crank pulley was touching the tube in front of it and is about half an inch out of alignment from the rest of the pulleys. I can't get the belt off unless I cut it. Anything like this happen to anyone else?

 

^^ Thanks for the help, I'll rip into it tonight. Crank is faster to type then harmonic balancer. Lol

 

You have to remove the steering rack to remove / replace the damper.

 

I did, now just trying to decide on if I get u/d or Oem spec after market harmonic balancer, would like a s/c down the road. Been told that don't get u/d for s/c and also been told I can still go u/d. So I don't know. Also trying to decide if I should do the cam since I'm down there.

 

You had better pin the crank, especially if you are going SC. I, of course just happen to have a kit for sale. PM me if interested, Rod

 

^^ So you could just change the S/C pulley to get that boost back theorectically, correct.

 

I haven't had a HB issue............yet but I have been reading posts pertaining to it. I see a lot of suggestions to "pin the crank / HB "
Like i said haven't had to worry about this but going back to my old Hot Rod days, Small Block Chevy's had Crank Keys. Are these newer SB cranks made without a key? Is it just a press fit and bolt ?

Never mind.....Google is your friend ! Also saw whats involved when pinning a crank !

 

So should I do the cam now? I would like something a little more aggressive in the low and mid range, but still tame enough to drive on the streets. Any suggestions?

 

yes i just did mine in march, i will be on my 3rd time because now my crank is leaking oil, the first time i pinched the oil pump o ring, when i put it all back together. no oil pressure. i was going to start tonight ,but i think next weekend. i went with a 225/229- 580/590 with 114lsa its i great cam so far.I put down 360hp and 359tq. last weekend i did a 800 mile trip and avged 25mpg doing 80mph. you will need to do the valve springs i went with the prc .650s make sure you follow the torq specs for the rockers. you will need new gaskets water pump, crank ,valve seals and timing cover. i would upgrade to the c5r or ls2 timing chain. i did the ls2 seems fine. Be prepared to take a bath in fluids... I did do it by myself the second time, it is easier with two ppl at least to get the steering rack back in. it will take some hitting and pushing and cursing but it will go back in. i followed the ls1howto and it was fine some say not to. DO NOT use their crank removal meth with the bolt.Buy the installer tool for crank and use that with the 3 jaw pulley remover to get the crank off. Also to break the bolt loose with out the flywheel holder or long flathead meth, use the stock belt and filp inside out and wrap it around the idle pulley then over the crank counter clockwise bring it back up and put it under the belt. so as you turn the crank, it will tighten up so the crank will come to a stop. then use a breaker bar to break the bolt loose. the rest is cake.

 

So the balancer is off and timing chain is in pretty rough shape, it must have smacked it a few times before wobbling to the front. So I am going to replace that. I am going to hold off on the cam. So now I need to replace the cover and gasket, crank seal, H/B, all tensionioners, idlers, belts, etc... Am I missing anything, money just came an issue as I was told tonight we are expecting our third child. I just want to get the car back on the road so I can enjoy it again, only drove it 500 miles since Ive had it.