Only reason I'm starting this thread is because it would have saved me some headache had I found one like it before I started my install!!!! Vararam isn't nice enough to update the instruction sheet they include or even on the site. They are more than helpful to respond to email with a call us reply. Which for the record, was of big help. But like I said, the newest version of the Vararam installs a bit different than the older versions.
Rather than do a step by step I will just point out the difference or different steps required for my install. And a few pics of the modifications I made that I think make the system better.
For the record, I am more than happy with the system. I'm confident in its ability to safely filter incoming air and there is no question my car is faster with it!

When you remove the radiator shroud and remove the fog light shrouds, you just slip the Vararam ducts over the opening of the bumper. You DO NOT bolt them to the bumper. This is where all my issues came from! They are now a simple compression fit like the brake ducts are.

Connect the upper ducts loose and reinstall the radiator shroud. The shroud will hold the ducts in place and in position against the bumper openings but allow the whole duct portion to flex and move for alignment.

Now you can align the upper ducts/lower filter housing. The bottom edge gets leveled out with the radiator shroud. Once tightened up, make sure the upper filter box clamps on correctly before installing the gasket to the lower section. My gasket, as well as almost all others I've seen has holes punched in it to align with the screws that hold the ducts together. THEY DO NOT ALIGN!!! Thanks Vararam. But I installed them anyway and don't think it matters.

It was suggested by others that the filter gets sealed into the upper lid. I used 100% silicone to do so and am very happy I did. Nothing can get by the outside of the filter now and only way through is through the filter itself. Great suggestion by the forum members!

If you do not have the Power Duct, the stock bridge connects just fine, I tried it. I have the Vararam duct so here was my next issue.
There was 0% chance of it working with the MAF relocated between the Throttle Body and the Duct. 0%! The flang to flange thickness of the MAF positioned the duct forward towards the filter box and not allowing it to seat down over the radiator top support. Alignment was off as most report, and the hood would not close. A call to Vararam ended in them saying I should just try to install the MAF in the factory location.

With that said, it's what I did and the sytem fits like a glove now.
It's just a matter of figuring out the coupler arrangement. The MAF slips into the upper filter lid and one of the 2" couplers is used to secure it in place. I used 2 clamps here.

On the other end of the MAF, towards the Power Duct, I installed the 1" adapter coupler and the other 2" coupler that slips over it. 1 clamp needed here.

Now slip the Duct into the couple at the MAF and seat it down into the coupler and over the radiator top support so that it sits nice and low and aligns with the TB.

Here is where the 4" coupler gets trimmed to fit. In my setup, I had to trip 7/8" off. Once trimmed to fit and I would suggest you trim what is needed for your setup, you need to get the coupler over the end of the Power Duct. This is the end that has the slit cut into it to fit over the relocated MAF. Makes for a fun little chore but it works. Once securely on and in position, put a clamp on it and tighten it down.

So you should now have the Duct with the 3"+ coupler on the TB side of the duct. slide a loose clamp over the MAF coupler and the TB coupler.

To install, slip the TB coupler into position and as you start to seat the coupler onto the TB the back side of the Power Duct will easily slip into the coupler on the MAF. Adjust and position for a good fit and tighten her up. I had a little vacumn line that pugs into the coupler just in front of the TB as well.

That's it. Fits like a glove and the performance is night and day on my LS1. Not saying I gained 20HP or some BS like that but I will say the car is a different beast now. More so in just the way it responds to the pedal.

A couple other things I did. I picked up some metal screen door material at the hardware store. Cut pieces to fit inside my Racemesh grilles and painted them black. Installed in the grilles, they can't even be seen. I also fit pieces over the openings of the ducts that were also painted black. So the air now passes through the heavy gauge Racemesh grills, then through the screen, through the other screen, then through screened MAF, then the filter that is sealed into the upper filter box lid.
Think I'm pretty well protected!
Before I mounted the grilles back into the bumper openings, I zip tied the fog light shrouds to the light bracket so that it does not block the lights at all. Then verified the fog light alignments. Then installed the grilles.

Good luck with any future installers of this system and I hope this helps. I would buy this system again in a heartbeat know what I know now.








Zip Tie

 

Screen over duct opening.


Screen installed into Racemesh Grille housings.


Filter sealed into upper box lid


Grilles back in place and install done!

 

Great write up! If they are not updating the instructions at least they are making improvements to the products. I did mine 2.5 years ago and have had no issues. Definitely makes a different car with it.
Chris

 

I could see how this install could be difficult for someone who isn't very mechanically adept. I dove into it on Saturday and got it done pretty quickly. It took me a quick second to realize the ducts press fit over the vents, not bolt into place. And I actually pressed my MAF directly into the airbox rather than using a coupler. It was a prefect fit.

 

Don't mean to get off topic but I have to ask, Is that plasti-Dip on the lower portion of your front bumper cover??

 

It always amazes me that a product manufacturer, who is clearly making money off a popular product, cant seem to get the little issues like the fitment right. Ive owned a Corvette for ten years now, have known car club members as well as reading about members on this forum and others, who have bought/installed the VR happy about the performance but unhappy about the installation process. Its the same basic design since its introduction. After years of bad reviews/comments about the fitment, can you imagine what their sales would be like if they corrected that issue? I would bet they would sell more of them. When youre spending $300+ for ANY mod, the last thing you should have to do is MAKE the parts fit. Superchargers are a lot more complex. What if you spent $3000 for a supercharger, youre in the middle of an install, you cant bolt in the plumbing, so you have to run out to Home Depot or look around your garage for a makeshift part?What about an exhaust system DESIGNED for your corvette, that doesnt fit as designed? Headers? Wheels?Can you imagine the negative publicity that manufacturers like Magnacharger,Hooker,Donaldson, Callaway,Ligenfelter, Bridgestone would take. Look at Goodyear for instance, The quality of their GY Supercar tires have been bad for years. Im happiest when i can buy a mod, install the parts in my garage, the parts fit like they were designed to do. Wont mind spending the money because I know its a quality product.

 

Well Hooker is known for very poor fitting exhaust on the C3s if that helps.

 

That's my point.

 

Lol. Yes. Its plasti dip. The paint is jacked up on the nose from the previous owner and I tried plasti dip out for the first time. Cool stuff. Looks far better in person.

 

you may have a 2001up MAF, the 97-00 is a bit smaller.

Either case, steer quickly when you see large puddles

 

I have a 97'.

 

The VR isn't as simple as most intakes for sure but well worth it. You do have to (as far as I know) put the maf into the air box for it to fit with the power duct. I was blown away how my car responded and I had a blackwing on it before. I trapped 108 with just the blackwing and have ran down multipe 110 trapping cars with ease with just the VR. Also I love the "puddle" comments, you have to drive thru a damn pond to endanger your engine. Hell I don't even have any vents shielding my VR, I checked my filter a few weeks ago and there was literally nothing on the bottom of the filter.

 

Fairly certain I have a 2000 MAF since my car is a 2000 and was never modified.

 

This whole Vararam craze is a big mystery to me. I don't understand how they can keep selling the same poor/cheap design after all these years. I guess as long as people keep buying it then why would they fix it. I mean, having to seal your filter element using silicone caulking sounds completely wrong to me.......LOL.

But, the OP did an excellent write up on getting it installed.

 

Mine do not require any caulking or sealing... I think a lot of people over complicate the installation to be honest.

 

^^^ this. the toughest part is lining up/tightening the bolts on the runners to the air box. The rest is just nuts and bolts. a little time consuming but well worth it.

 

There are screw tabs on the shrouds/ducts and the instructions are clear that you bolt them down. That is the first spot that my install went wrong. No spacers are included in the kit like older models as I know some people used spacers to align the ducts. I read several online guides as well as Vararams instructions before getting into the install. It was clear that they bolt down to the bumper.
But, the new version just slips over the bumper openings and is held in place by both the radiator shroud and front of the frame. Once the rest of the system is installed, there is no way it can move other than flex and twist with the motor. Had I known that from the beginning, as in an updated instruction manual, the install would have been simple.
And I slipped the MAF flange directly into the upper filter lid as you said you did. In fact the instructions show this. But I also slipped one of the couplers over that connection and used a couple clamps on it so that it sealed properly and looks better imo.

When I had them on the phone and was talking about how the relocated MAF would not allow the duct to seat down over the radiator support, he asked which MAF I had. One with both flanges made of metal or one with one metal and one composite flange. As soon as I told him I have a 97' and both ends of the MAF are metal, he suggested to just install it in the factory location. Not sure if the later models are half composite or what???
But with the MAF and TB flanges touching, the MAF sits right next to the radiator support so there's not enough room for the duct to fit over the flange and seat over the radiator. It would need to move closer to the TB in order to fit.

Not that it matters now. It's installed and performs like a SOB. And for the record, I had a Halltech before with the WarHead filter. The car never felt like this before. 3rd gear at 3K rpm is

 

Yeah, I will say that ram air is the only way to go on an LSx powered vehicle. I had a FTRA on my camaro and loved it, so I knew a Vararam was the only option for me. My car is on stock tires (until the nt05s go on tomorrow) and it spins in 1st and shifting into 2nd. I was overly surprised at how much the car picked up from just a ram air.

 

FYI. Here is some interesting reading for all the "ram air" afficianados:

www.paladinmicro.com/documents/RamAirMyth.pdf

The main reason that a Vararam does what it does is because it gets cool outside air into the engine not because of a "ram air" effect. Just saying.

 

I know that. My main point it that it's the most efficient system n