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Electrical Gurus - PCM no comm - battery?

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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Default Electrical Gurus - PCM no comm - battery?

Last night I was out having some fun when the car went nuts, gauges all were turning on and then off (and repeat) and then the car just turned off (at 70mph). I coasted to the shoulder and attempted to start the car.

Service active handling
Low fuel
Service vehicle soon (IIRC)
Reduced engine power

The passenger door window would not go up. I previously fixed the loose wire issue, I'll double check that again.

And reading the codes on the DIC results in

PCM no comm

I had the car on a flatbed and taken home. I noticed the battery was really low, but I did try to start it a lot (busy highway, small shoulder). I put the battery tender on it over night and it still shows half battery (not full - even after 12 hours).

Get in the car this morning and it has the same messages for me, but then I hear a gurgle (fuel pump?). After that I tried to start it, and it fired right up. Now there are no more messages.

Would a bad battery due this to the car? I will begin with the pages of testing of grounds and connections soon but wanted to rule the battery out first.

Battery is 6+ years old but always had a trickle charger on it. Believe its a AAA battery, I haven't looked at the date.

Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 01:11 PM
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A bad battery will cause a lot of havoc with the cars electrical system. The battery is 6+ years old and won't take a full charge, then it is time to replace it.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Could well be the battery but I suggest you read this post for some possible additional input:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-there-is.html
In the past I have already fixed the door, but I will look into it more (check out for corrision, etc).

Originally Posted by chaase
A bad battery will cause a lot of havoc with the cars electrical system. The battery is 6+ years old and won't take a full charge, then it is time to replace it.
It's still on the charger, I am waiting to see if it does fully charge but I might just replace it anyway being how old it is.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by chaase
A bad battery will cause a lot of havoc with the cars electrical system. The battery is 6+ years old and won't take a full charge, then it is time to replace it.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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So I picked up a new battery, mine was 6-7 years old and test wasn't the best but it wasn't dead.

The car starts fine now, but I don't want to run into this issue again. The battery could not be the true fix so I want to cover all bases.

Going to check

1. The wiring in the doors, previously repaired this but who knows.
2. The BCM is the computer in the footwell of the passenger side correct? Going to check the 3 connections for corrision.
3. Going to have to find some of the grounds for the car (tried some searching but if someone has a link that would help) and make sure they are good.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Could well be the battery but I suggest you read this post for some possible additional input:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-there-is.html
Also going to look at some of the other items in your link

Other things to check?

Thanks!

Last edited by nullpointer; Apr 17, 2013 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
So I picked up a new battery, mine was 6-7 years old and test wasn't the best but it wasn't dead.

The car starts fine now, but I don't want to run into this issue again. The battery could not be the true fix so I want to cover all bases.

Going to check

1. The wiring in the doors, previously repaired this but who knows.
2. The BCM is the computer in the footwell of the passenger side correct? Going to check the 3 connections for corrision.
3. Going to have to find some of the grounds for the car (tried some searching but if someone has a link that would help) and make sure they are good.



Also going to look at some of the other items in your link

Other things to check?

Thanks!
If you have an older car you can also double check the PCM. There was a time when the old lead acid batteries would leak and mess up the PCM and connector which is under the battery tray.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chaase
If you have an older car you can also double check the PCM. There was a time when the old lead acid batteries would leak and mess up the PCM and connector which is under the battery tray.
its an 02 Z06 so I think I missed out on that one.

Check the utter on the passenger side and that was clear, but was a PITA to get back in. It seems like its in correctly, but can't see the bottom of it to confirm.

Going to check the ground near the battery next.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:52 AM
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Well I got a new battery as the last one was 6-7 years old. Got in the car today to test it out and once I put the key in and turn ignition to on there was the 6-7 second delay before anything happened. Then I got all the messages back. I recorded it so its easier to see.

Any ideas on this delay?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HxTi...ature=youtu.be

I then let the car sit for 2 minutes and tried it again, unable to get it to do it again. This is driving me F'IN nuts. Previous to all this I checked the door wiring, door connections (all seemed good), ground near battery, ground on drivers side, utters, BCM in passenger floor (was fine).

Need some ideas...

Codes (all history):

PCM - No Codes

TCS
C1227 H
C1276 H
C1278 H
C1295 H
U1016 H
U1000 H

BCM
B0507 H
B2587 H
B2592 H
U1255 H
U1016 H
U1096 H

SDM
U1000 H
U1016 H
U1040 H
U1096 H
U1064 H

IPC - No Codes

Radio
U1096 H

HVAC
U1064 H
U1096 H
U1160 H
U1255 H

LDCM
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H

RDCM
B2265 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H

SCM
U1300 H
U1255 H
U1064 H

RFA
U1000 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1096 H
U1016 H
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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Sorry I wasn't too clear

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I'm confused at the current status of the car.....

Does this delay continue to happen from time to time or was this a one time occurrence????
This delay happens from time to time

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
In the video you show that you could not pull codes.... Was this a one time thing or does this also occur from time to time????

When was the list of codes above collected?
In the video I didn't think the messages would go away next time I tried, but they did so I pulled the codes 5 minutes after video was recorded.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
The U codes are all loss of communications. Specifically the U1255 is a Serial Data Line Malfunction.

Since the Serial Data Line has a presence under the drivers seat, I have to wonder is that has been somehow damaged under the seat. The reason I suspect that is that your sitting in the seat could affect the serial data line it it is cut or pinched.... It also might explain the delay in the display illuminating. The communications to the Instrument Panel rely on the Serial Data Buss. If it lost connection and then by your moving around regained connection, then the delay symptoms would have occurred.
I will check that out, awesome information!

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Has the drivers seat been out of the car recently for any reason? Wires could have gotten pinched on the reinstall.

Try reaching in through the window to pull the codes and see what happens.............
Drivers seat has not been out of car in the last 6 years.

I am going to pull the drivers seat out and inspect the wiring. I will take pictures and post them.

Thanks
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Think this could cause issues



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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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Check the connectors, they look good to me. Also checked the wires, retaped too.

Thanks again for the help! The codes are cleared and I am going to take the car out in a bit for test drive.







The the finished product

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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:57 AM
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So...tell me/us.....how did it work?
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:46 AM
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Sounds like a bad ground. Do you have headers?
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 07:40 AM
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Whoops forgot to post an update. After I removed the drivers seat, chcked pins/wires and reconnected everything I haven't had the issue again. Drove for ~150 miles and no issues. So I am going to call this one fixed
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:24 AM
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Ya know,,,,,,,,,,as I was reading the post,,, I was thinking DOOR CONNECTORS,,, DRIVERS SEAT or WET BCM..

The issue that you were having was a corrupted serial data buss wire (SOMEWHERE IN THE SERIAL MODULE PATH) Just so happened that your bent and deformed seat plug was causing the seat control module to weird out and give the serial data buss greif! If you look at the pictures you can see that the male pins are bent.

When I saw the seat wire I had to LOL! Good job and glad YOU were able to resolve it without too much cash outlay.

By the way,,, Glad you got that battery changes as it can and will cause issues when they get weak also.

Bill
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Ya know,,,,,,,,,,as I was reading the post,,, I was thinking DOOR CONNECTORS,,, DRIVERS SEAT or WET BCM..

The issue that you were having was a corrupted serial data buss wire (SOMEWHERE IN THE SERIAL MODULE PATH) Just so happened that your bent and deformed seat plug was causing the seat control module to weird out and give the serial data buss greif! If you look at the pictures you can see that the male pins are bent.

When I saw the seat wire I had to LOL! Good job and glad YOU were able to resolve it without too much cash outlay.

By the way,,, Glad you got that battery changes as it can and will cause issues when they get weak also.

Bill
Thanks I'm glad it didn't cost too much $$ or time! The battery needed replacement, even the test at the parts store showed it was on its way out. Don't need anymore issues lol

Think I should pull the seat out and straighten out the male pins?
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:29 PM
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Your female pins have already taken a set to whats there. IF,,,,,,,,, you ever have to take that apart again, you should straighten the male pins and make sure that the female pins are not bent to hell. You can bend them back straight.

BC
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