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I need to splice on a pigtail for my oil pressure sender. I don't know how it is normally done in automotive work .
I was planning on staggering the cuts , soldering each of the three wires, shrink tube each, then shrink tube the entire joint.
I would like to know what is the normal way to do this attachment in the automotive world. Is it to add a connector, or some particular way this work would be done by a pro mechanic.
I know any interruption in the wiring is a possible trouble spot, so I seek a conventional, proven approach. PLus I want the work easily understood by the next guy. I know it is not a big deal, I am trying to keep out a bunch of homemade touches to my work on the car.
I am trying to have the finished car not say worked on by low information hillbilly when you pop the hood.
Any hillbillies out there, just kidding. Uncle Jed's truck ran great.
I don't think solder and heat shrink would be a problem. I'd feel better with that instead of some kind of connector that could get cruddy and corroded.
Sounds good. I wouldn't bother doing all 3 wires with heatshrink though.
Look for double-wall heatshrink. It'll be more expensive but it has an adhesive inside the will seal the joint. The cheap stuff doesn't really seal very well.
I've seen lots of "pro mechanics" using crimp splices and they're complete crap for use under the hood so don't worry what they'd do.
glad I asked. didn't know there is double heat shrink tubing as described. Sounds very useful. Thanks
Mainly concerned with accepted good practice. Don't want any repairs to be less than par.
As it is, the car has been down for a while. Might as well ask for advice, I know any break in a car wire is asking for it.
Plus, if I ever get this car around any hot rod types, don't want my work to expose my lesser qualities.
A lot of run of the mill auto shops I've seen like to use wire taps like these:
or butt splices. I personally think butt splices are terrible, but they're popular.
I think wire taps are generally reliable, although I personally wouldn't want them on my corvette. On my Jeep, maybe. Solder and heat shrink is definitely the best way to go. I like to cover the wire with wire loom afterwards to keep it looking factory and clean.
Look up western union splice on the Internet.
Makes a great splice. Solder with rosin core solder and insulate the repaired section with the double walled heat-shrink with sealer on the inside. That is what you want.
Do NOT crimp splice any automotive electrical splice. It WILL eventually fail and fail when you need it the most. Any low voltage signal wire requires 100% continuity. Only a soldered splice provides that type of repair.
The service manual has a very detailed write up on wiring repairs and how to do it.
Look up western union splice on the Internet.
Makes a great splice. Solder with rosin core solder and insulate the repaired section with the double walled heat-shrink with sealer on the inside. That is what you want.
Do NOT crimp splice any automotive electrical splice. It WILL eventually fail and fail when you need it the most. Any low voltage signal wire requires 100% continuity. Only a soldered splice provides that type of repair.
The service manual has a very detailed write up on wiring repairs and how to do it.
If you want to have your added wire removable with a connector what I do is: Splice the wire in as you suggest, however, instead of crimping the connector, just pull back on the plastic sleeve (remove it) to expose the metal. Slide on heat shrink and solder your wire into the connector and then heat shrink the connection. I have wired whole cars this way with no failures over 30-40 years.
I use the lash splice method myself. If you want to learn about acceptable wiring practices, look up NASA-STD 8739.4 and the NASA workmanship standards. They have a document that is complete with pictures of what to do vs. what not to do. It was very informative.
Last edited by etekberg; May 28, 2013 at 02:59 PM.
I don't think solder and heat shrink would be a problem. I'd feel better with that instead of some kind of connector that could get cruddy and corroded.
There are crimp-style connectors that have a heat-shrink covering. Found them at the local Lowe's.