Changed O2's now new codes
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
Changed O2's now new codes
I changed both my O2 sensors about a week ago due to P0135 and
P0155, Used Bosch O2's designed for the rear up front, Back sensors have been deleted. Took the car out a couple of times and no more codes. Now last night I get P0133 and P0134. P0133 is slow response bank 1 sensor 1, and P0134 is insufficeint activity Bank 1 sensor 1. I haven't gotten to get back under the car yet but barring some physical defect like my wiring slipped and burnt on collectors. or connections came loose what else should I look for?
Oh,, and which side is bank 1? Drivers or passengers side?
P0155, Used Bosch O2's designed for the rear up front, Back sensors have been deleted. Took the car out a couple of times and no more codes. Now last night I get P0133 and P0134. P0133 is slow response bank 1 sensor 1, and P0134 is insufficeint activity Bank 1 sensor 1. I haven't gotten to get back under the car yet but barring some physical defect like my wiring slipped and burnt on collectors. or connections came loose what else should I look for?
Oh,, and which side is bank 1? Drivers or passengers side?
Last edited by JetMechZ16; Jun 3, 2013 at 12:20 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bank 1 = Drivers
So,,,,,,,,,, Are the O2 Sensor Heaters working properly? With the car COLD, turn the Key to the ON position. (engine OFF) and after approx 3-4 min, carefully (they should be HOT!!) feel the base of the O2 sensors. They should heat up to the point that they are very uncomfortable to touch!
If they dont heat up correctly, you will have issues.
Check out the schematic provided. The power for the OXY SEN fuse comes from the IGNITION SWITCH.
Use a DC Volt meter and read the two test points on top of the fuse to chassis ground and make sure that you have FULL Battery voltage on the fuse and the fuse is not blown.
BC
So,,,,,,,,,, Are the O2 Sensor Heaters working properly? With the car COLD, turn the Key to the ON position. (engine OFF) and after approx 3-4 min, carefully (they should be HOT!!) feel the base of the O2 sensors. They should heat up to the point that they are very uncomfortable to touch!
If they dont heat up correctly, you will have issues.
Check out the schematic provided. The power for the OXY SEN fuse comes from the IGNITION SWITCH.
Use a DC Volt meter and read the two test points on top of the fuse to chassis ground and make sure that you have FULL Battery voltage on the fuse and the fuse is not blown.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Once you make sure that the proper 12 VDC power is being supplied, you have to make sure the ground path is 100% good.
SP 122 is behind and under the battery and G-105 is on top of the frame rail directly below the brake booster cansiter.
BC
SP 122 is behind and under the battery and G-105 is on top of the frame rail directly below the brake booster cansiter.
BC
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
Thanks Bill, gives me some more to go on if I don't run across the obvious. I'm catching Hot Rod power tour on thursday when they come through here, I'd like this resolved before then.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 375
Likes: 18
From: Farmington Hills MI
Is there a way to test the sensors themselves?
I got a P0135 after my last track day. I pulled both front sensors and did a continuity check and got a reading across the black wires on the right side O2 sensor but got nothing on the left side O2 sensor. Assuming the black wires are the heating circuit, that might indicate the left side heating circuit is bad. The wires themselves otherwise look good. No sign of short or melting.
BTW, I tried the turn the ignition on to see if the O2 sensors get hot. I left it on for two songs on the radio and none of them got hot. I checked fuse 15 under the hood and it is fine.
I have American Racing Headers (ceramic coated) and X-Pipe. The headers were on last year with no O2 sensor issues.
I got a P0135 after my last track day. I pulled both front sensors and did a continuity check and got a reading across the black wires on the right side O2 sensor but got nothing on the left side O2 sensor. Assuming the black wires are the heating circuit, that might indicate the left side heating circuit is bad. The wires themselves otherwise look good. No sign of short or melting.
BTW, I tried the turn the ignition on to see if the O2 sensors get hot. I left it on for two songs on the radio and none of them got hot. I checked fuse 15 under the hood and it is fine.
I have American Racing Headers (ceramic coated) and X-Pipe. The headers were on last year with no O2 sensor issues.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Did you actually MEASURE the voltage at the OXYSEN Fuse to chassis ground with the key ON???
Recommend that you take the measurement. Something is wrong. The part that screws into the header should be very warm.
Bill
Recommend that you take the measurement. Something is wrong. The part that screws into the header should be very warm.
Bill
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 375
Likes: 18
From: Farmington Hills MI
11.4 volts from the fuse 15 slot to ground (both chassis and battery). Checked all four O2 sensors and they were cool to the touch. I only get the P0135 code indicating that only bank 1 is in error... I have an '04 Z06 if that makes a difference.
Last edited by YYZ06; Jun 14, 2013 at 09:52 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 375
Likes: 18
From: Farmington Hills MI
Thanks for the help Bill,
If I'm reading the diagram correctly, there should be a brown and black wire on the auto side O2 harness. I should get the same 11.4 volts across those two pins on the harness correct? Due to having headers, I have an extension harness so hopefully it uses the same color wires as the vehicle harness...
The circuits appear to me to be in parallel so if there is a short in one of them (ie. a short further up the harness extension on the bank 1, sensor 1) it shouldn't impact the other three circuits. Right?
I take it you are still suggesting I take a voltage reading between the #15 fuse slot and SP122. I can do that later today. Is SP122 visible or do I have to take out the battery tray to get to it?
Thanks again.
If I'm reading the diagram correctly, there should be a brown and black wire on the auto side O2 harness. I should get the same 11.4 volts across those two pins on the harness correct? Due to having headers, I have an extension harness so hopefully it uses the same color wires as the vehicle harness...
The circuits appear to me to be in parallel so if there is a short in one of them (ie. a short further up the harness extension on the bank 1, sensor 1) it shouldn't impact the other three circuits. Right?
I take it you are still suggesting I take a voltage reading between the #15 fuse slot and SP122. I can do that later today. Is SP122 visible or do I have to take out the battery tray to get to it?
Thanks again.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks for the help Bill,
If I'm reading the diagram correctly, there should be a brown and black wire on the auto side O2 harness. I should get the same 11.4 volts across those two pins on the harness correct? Due to having headers, I have an extension harness so hopefully it uses the same color wires as the vehicle harness...
The circuits appear to me to be in parallel so if there is a short in one of them (ie. a short further up the harness extension on the bank 1, sensor 1) it shouldn't impact the other three circuits. Right?
I take it you are still suggesting I take a voltage reading between the #15 fuse slot and SP122. I can do that later today. Is SP122 visible or do I have to take out the battery tray to get to it?
Thanks again.
If I'm reading the diagram correctly, there should be a brown and black wire on the auto side O2 harness. I should get the same 11.4 volts across those two pins on the harness correct? Due to having headers, I have an extension harness so hopefully it uses the same color wires as the vehicle harness...
The circuits appear to me to be in parallel so if there is a short in one of them (ie. a short further up the harness extension on the bank 1, sensor 1) it shouldn't impact the other three circuits. Right?
I take it you are still suggesting I take a voltage reading between the #15 fuse slot and SP122. I can do that later today. Is SP122 visible or do I have to take out the battery tray to get to it?
Thanks again.
Yes, you should read the same voltage on the brown and black wires at the O2 Sensor harness connector
Yes, they are in parallel.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 968
Likes: 12
From: Regina Sask
I changed both my O2 sensors about a week ago due to P0135 and
P0155, Used Bosch O2's designed for the rear up front, Back sensors have been deleted. Took the car out a couple of times and no more codes. Now last night I get P0133 and P0134. P0133 is slow response bank 1 sensor 1, and P0134 is insufficeint activity Bank 1 sensor 1. I haven't gotten to get back under the car yet but barring some physical defect like my wiring slipped and burnt on collectors. or connections came loose what else should I look for?
Oh,, and which side is bank 1? Drivers or passengers side?
P0155, Used Bosch O2's designed for the rear up front, Back sensors have been deleted. Took the car out a couple of times and no more codes. Now last night I get P0133 and P0134. P0133 is slow response bank 1 sensor 1, and P0134 is insufficeint activity Bank 1 sensor 1. I haven't gotten to get back under the car yet but barring some physical defect like my wiring slipped and burnt on collectors. or connections came loose what else should I look for?
Oh,, and which side is bank 1? Drivers or passengers side?
Bank one is always the side of #1 cylinder, so the driver's side.
Russ Kemp
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 375
Likes: 18
From: Farmington Hills MI
Yesterday was yard work day so today I got a chance to check the voltage at the harness. It read 12.3 volts (I put the battery on the trickle charger after the 11.4 volt reading) so at this point, I'm pretty convinced it is a bad O2 sensor. I get no codes from any of the other sensors.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
Update
Coming back from Hot Rod power tour I started getting a p0300 random misfire code in addition to numerous 02 sensor codes. I got back under the car last night and found that my 02 harness connector on the drivers side had slipped low enough to burn the connector pretty badly. I got a new 02 sensor with a new connector attached, not the universal type. Replaced it, cleaned the maf, throttle body, and air filter. and took it for a short test drive about 6-7 miles. Didn't notice a misfire anymore and no codes so far. I need to take it out for a longer test drive before I'll feel confident that it's fixed. But I was wondering if the 02 not reading at all could contribute to the p0300 code?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19,864
Likes: 146
From: South East TN
Took the car out for a longer test drive, about 50 miles. Took a Actron scanner with me. No codes at all. The misfire has diminished but I still feel it slightly. There is a noticable decrease in power, when I floor it in
2nd gear it won't even spin the tires. My last dyno run said 388 rwhp which was a few days prior to my misfire. This car has always broke the tires loose when floored in 2nd and usually 3rd also.
I changed the plugs last night due to thinking that if my 02 sensor problem caused the computer to trim overly rich, that I might have some fouled plugs. All the plugs looked great, but I changed them anyways. I used TR55's gapped at .045. Then I shut the lights off in the garage and started her up to look for any arcing and sparking on the coils and wires, everything looked good. I had the battery disconnected while changing plugs hoping that the computer would reset from an overly rich condition. Haven't gotten to drive it again since it was aboput 11 pm when I got done. I'll drive it again today after work, but I'm not expecting any imrovements since all the old plugs looked perfectly fine.
2nd gear it won't even spin the tires. My last dyno run said 388 rwhp which was a few days prior to my misfire. This car has always broke the tires loose when floored in 2nd and usually 3rd also.
I changed the plugs last night due to thinking that if my 02 sensor problem caused the computer to trim overly rich, that I might have some fouled plugs. All the plugs looked great, but I changed them anyways. I used TR55's gapped at .045. Then I shut the lights off in the garage and started her up to look for any arcing and sparking on the coils and wires, everything looked good. I had the battery disconnected while changing plugs hoping that the computer would reset from an overly rich condition. Haven't gotten to drive it again since it was aboput 11 pm when I got done. I'll drive it again today after work, but I'm not expecting any imrovements since all the old plugs looked perfectly fine.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 375
Likes: 18
From: Farmington Hills MI
I thought I'd follow up on my part of the thread. I replaced the O2 sensor and spent the last weekend running the Z around the race track and no codes. Thanks again to Bill Curlee for taking the time to help.