Ok, i dont know so far to my understanding if someone has been through this, but my vette is an o4 z06 s/c and i make 692rwhp.

So my problem is, with that being said, i pretty much demolished my torque tube and its gonna cost me an arm and a leg right now to have replaced. i have had the stock factory torque tube in, and GM gave me a price of 2951.91 for another factory replacement, call me out if i am wrong, but arent they rated to hold about 620hp? with 692 to the wheels and just guessing the power im making to the motor is maybe around 850hp from the crank, (really havent taken the time to figure) ....... SO ANYONE KNOW A BEST ROUTE TO GET A NEW TORQUE TUBE AFTERMARKET AND STILL BE A REASONABLE PRICE AND SEE WHAT IT COULD BE RATED FOR?
i cruise the car and occasionly get on it, and wanna take it out on a road course in the near future when money isnt a problem again
thanks for the help guys in advance!!

 

I bought a used one of another forum member from a ZO6 for $250, The problem is the couplings inside the torque tube shearing off the bolts, it is more than likely they were worn as mine were. You can buy a carbon fiber driveshaft to go in your tube or in another tube. Or you can Get solid torque tube bushings to replace the factory rubber style The factory torque tube should hold up better than your rear diff
$3k is crazy!!

 

You know of where i can get the carbon fiber drive shafts? i checked on rpmtransmissions.com for bushings etc but no carbon fiber driveshafts, 3k is crazy for a new stock one! and even my tube itself is no good as far as i know of anyway, so i might have to buy a whole new torque tube!

 

Google it I just did all kinds of stuff comes up including the stronger/better 12mm torque tube and if I were you I9'd get rid of all the rubber and go with the soild pieces.
Good luck to ya and post some videos over ur shoulder going on a test beat/Flying in that when its coming on the Boost
Thats got to be real kool

 

Have you pulled your TT and inspected it?? How do you know if it is destroyed?

Anytime you have someone do C5 drive-train work for you, its going to be relatively expensive.

You said it and spelled it wrong Its STEALERSHIP,,, and YES, they charge you 2-3 times the price that you can get it else where.

Contact Gene Culley www.gmpartshouse.com and see what he charges for a new one.

Your best bet is a used one and you rebuild that one.

Here a few Torque Tube post that I dug up:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...dies-pics.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ling-help.html

 

Those 2 links are just about the best write-ups Ive seen
Really nice & great job well done

 

You have just been helped by the best, the forum is a wonderful place.

 

Hey thanks guys, ill check out those two links! And I know right? This forum has helped in so many ways!

 

Yeah man when put back together ill make a video and keep you in mind, my BOV sounds pretty wicked

 

Kool That thing is got to be a blast

 

anymore help guys? any where else i can find one or if someone in the site might help a poor fellow out?

 

Find what, exactly? There is no such thing as an "aftermarket" TT. All TTs for C5s are GM pieces. Do you mean used TT or what exactly?

 

Try contacting the forum member Marc@Vettenuts.net for a used torque tube.

Pfadt has the carbon fiber shaft.

The Driveshaft Shop makes poly couplers and a heavy duty Al drive shaft.

 

I believe LG Motorsports and 'The Driveshaft Shop' have carbon fiber d'shafts....

 

LG's has the Carbon Fiber Drive shafts. (Dallas Area)

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/product...oducts_id=1471

If your pushing that much power I would upgrade to something able to hold the power next time. Do it right the first time.

Call Anthony over at LG's. I know he can hook you up !
972.429.1963

Toque

 

 

First things first......

Before you start throwing tons of money and parts at it...see exactly what failed and if it took out anything else, it might be money ahead to buy a complete unit and just change the shaft.

Do you know what broke? Did it hurt the housing? Do you know if it bent the input shaft? Hurt the rear bearing assembly?

Couple of items in that list above can total over $1k if you had to buy them separate of the shaft itself....I think the last time I had to get just the input for the race car it was over $600 from GM.

Once you figure that part out...I can help you with the rest of it. No more rubber couplers in it, no more poly couplers with the HP you are making now, it just won't live for long.

 

Very solid advice being given to you here by some veteran's in the industry.

We do carry used Z06 TT's. We have 2 in stock at this time. They are $495.

With that being said i am getting ready to upgrade my TT to the LG CF drive shaft. Im making 528 RWHP but am adding NOS. My drive line is all stock and just found shavings in my Diff so i pulled it and sent the diff and tranny to RPM for STG 5 tranny and STG 3 Diff. While i have it apart im also upgrading my TT.

The #'s your making you need to upgrade if you can because the factory drive line will not survive for long.

Good luck with the repairs and if we can be of any assistance feel free to contact me.

Marc
615-896-6100
marc@vettenuts.net

 

It appears there are 2 versions of carbon fiber driveshafts.

The LG (or The Driveshaft Shop?) shaft shown already appears to be a replacement of the stock shaft which would use rubber, poly or aluminum couplers, with the aluminum couplers not allowing any flex in the shaft.

Pfadt has a version is longer than stock so it can use special thin spring metal couplers that allow for some misalignment at the joints similar to what the rubber couplers do. It also appears the Pfadt shaft is way larger in diameter. It's pricier at about $700 more but you don't have to buy any other parts to install.

http://store.pfadtracing.com/pfadt-c...tic-2006-2008/

I'd be curious what each company thinks is the advantages vs disadvantages of their designs. I really don't see any advantage other than weight for TDSS/LG carbon shaft vs a heavy duty aluminum shaft. The Pfadt shaft has the special couplers that at least in theory would ensure the install doesn't have any bending force in the shaft assembly.

Overall, I think I'd go to The DSS and buy a heavy duty aluminum shaft and with the money saved also buy their poly couplers. There are a few people here running more RWHP than you that have had good luck with that combo. At least give them a call and talk to them about your application and see what they say.

As already mentioned, if you have yet to upgrade the trans and diff you might want to consider doing so before you break either. Honestly, at your HP level a C6 trans and diff swap from Rick @ RKT56.com really would be the most bulletproof way to go. You can upgrade the C5 trans and diff but the diff will always be a weak link.