My husband used a trickle charger all winter. Went out to start it and nothing--tried a jump start from a charger and got sparks. I double checked the battery (which shows a 80% charge). There is absolutely no electrical activity. I am in the process of checking all the fuses and not getting anywhere. Could this possibly be a security access default lock out?

I am ready to take a hammer to the car--so any info that could help will be greatly appreciated. I have read many other posts about electrical problems and ground connections which I will look into as well, but this situation appears to have no electrical at all--since he tried to jump start it. I did also take off the battery connectors and cleaned them too.

Can't access any car diagnostics because no electric activity on the dash board.

Bought a car diagnostic tool , but haven't used it yet.

 

Solid Info!
My bet is on the battery also. When you get the battery tested and sorted out, remember,, The battery terminals need to be CLEAN and properly torqued on to the battery. The battery bolts need to be torqued to 11 ft/lbs.

Once the battery is reconnected, Use the internal code reader and read the DTCs.. CLEAR ALL of them and see if any come back... Those are the ones that you ennd to trouble shoot first

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

When the key is in ignition and turned but not cranked all the way--dash board is completely black--no lights--cannot get the codes. It is a 1 year old battery, but will start there. thanks

 

What is the voltage across the battery with a voltmeter?

 

Had some electrical problems with mine last week, battery read fine, even was taking a charge, if car sat for 48 hrs, no start. Bunch of different symptoms till it finally did the" R&R key in 10sec" had a optima yellow top, finally had the battery checked and failed load test.

Thanks to Bill Curlee helpin me out, cars great now, not a glitch.
Joe

 

Yes---it was indeed the battery! Thank you--husband is off and running. Thank-you!

 

Thank-you so much--yes it was indeed the battery--Husband is up and running around with the car--thanks!!