I bought a new battery in 2011, or December 2010, a AC Delco, the one meant for a C5.

It is a 7 year warranty, does anyone know how long the free replacement is, or if there is one?

 

Looks like it will be pro rated, just saw on this...http://www.acdelco.com/parts/warrant...y_warranty.pdf

 

I have lost the receipt, but hope where I bought it I'm in their record.

 

I'm charging the battery with a trickle charge @ 2 amps.

What should a fully charged battery's volts be?

Once I took a battery to be exchanged to a Autozone, and sat in on the floor while waiting in line.

When it was my turn I picked it up and put it on the counter, the parts lady told me you never set a battery on the ground as it will ruin it, anyone ever hear of this?

She says it will discharge the battery

 

I bought a AC Delco Professional grade 7 year battery, and it was free replacement for 50 months, then pro-rated, but I think they have reduced that now... Go to the Delco website to check current warranty.

Note, if you do not have a receipt, there is a date code on the battery that tells when it was manufactured they will go by.

You really need a charger that has a charging meter, or one that will shut off when the battery is charged..instead of going by the voltage. If it shows 12.6 volts with the charger disconnected, it should be charged.

Are you kidding about setting the battery on the floor for just a few minutes??? Actually, I have heard not to store a battery on concrete for long periods, but setting it on the floor for a few minutes is not going to do anything to it...
Battery cases used to be made of hard rubber, which were porous enough that if put on moist concrete could create a current and discharge a battery, but modern cases are non-porous and well insulated enough that storing them on concrete will not do anything.

 

Just took the charger leads off, it's @ 12.5 volts.

The battery charger I have is auto shut off, but it's old and I'm not sure I trust it to shut off.

What do you think?

 

A battery can show charged to 12v but if you reinstall and the car won't crank it has a short. You would need to have it load tested.

 

any parts store or "Batteries Plus" place (if you have one near you) can charge and load test the battery.. I perfer Interstate Megatron Plus batteries... Better battery and priced about the same.

 

I took the battery out of the car to charge it.

Years ago my dad was charging a battery and it exploded, acid got on the car's paint, I know it's a long shot of it happening, but better sage than sorry.

So if the cables are hooked up, would it make the volts go down a little vs not hooked up?

 

HI All,

Antigravity Batteries here. New forum sponsors. Wanted to tell you we have some innovative solutions for exactly what is mentioned above. We are a company that specializes in LIthium-Ion Battery product for the Motorsport Industry and beyond.....

We have 3 products that readers of this thread might be interested in. Lithium-Ion Starter Batteries, Lithium-Ion mini-jump Starters, and then some very cool accessories like our Bluetooth Battery Tracker device that monitor your Batteries health and data and sends it to your phone. I'll explain them in a few following posts.

If you not familiar with Lithium-Ion Starter Batteries then I will give you some basic facts about what our Antigravity Battery for Automobiles does. It is very technologically advanced. The original Poster expressed his concern about wanting a battery that he could rely on.... well our battery actually has the Worlds First built in Jump-Starting capability. But not only that, our built-in Jump Starting is WIRELESS, so you don't even have to be able to access the battery in your car. You do not have to open the hood on your car, and you or your wife could actuate the Jump-Starting feature from the safety of the car if it was raining or you were in a dark parking lot. You simply press the keyfob and start your car again. To further explain that, our battery intelligently monitors it own voltage, when it sees it is close to a point of becoming "over-discharged" it puts itself to SLEEP while retaining just enough energy to get you about 5 more start attempts. So if you left your lights on, or left the stereo going and the battery was over-discharging, our battery won't allow it to fully discharge, it will put itself to sleep. Then simply press the Wire-less Keyfob to WAKE-UP the battery, then Start your car and drive away. You won't be stranded, you won't need assistance or a Jump Starter.

But additionally there are other benefits to Lithium- Ion. For example the Battery is up to 70% lighter than Lead/Acid.... so our Battery line weighs from 12lbs to 16lbs depending on the Amp Hour Capacity you get. So Lithium is extremely lightweight, and much more powerful than Lead/Acid also, it offers about twice the cranking amps as Lead/Acid. Lithium also offers lifespans from 8 to 10 years because it is rated at 2000 cycles vs. Lead/Acid having only 1000 cycles. To take that a step further Lithium is also a DRY chemistry so it is not affected by the vibration as Lead/Acid is. And finally the Lithium Battery we offer has a Circuit board built-in that has multiple protection to prevent the battery from Over-charge, Over-discharge, Short Circuit protections, Thermal protections and Balances of the Lithium Cells so they get the longest life possible. So its a very technologically advanced battery designed to have an ultra long life and not let accidental over-discharges happen that will damage a typical Lead/Acid Battery.

The Cons for this type of product are mainly that they are more expensive in the initial cost than Lead/Acid Batteries... and they are not intended for vehicles that are driven in the Ice and Snow for 4 months out of the year. So in relation to cost, the battery will have over double the life of a Lead Acid battery, it has built-in Jump Starting so you won't ever be stranded by a dead battery again, and it is so light-weight that is can save you 30lbs from a regular H6 /Group 48 size battery. So IF you are interested in those types of benefits, then the value is there for sure. In relation to cold weather, our batteries can handle it fine if you buy the higher Amp Hour version of the battery but many opt for the lower Amp-Hour Version of the battery for larger weight savings, and in below freezing weather they will have a more sluggish initial start.. but as the battery self-warms from the current discharge they come to full power again. But this is only in freezing weather and does not effect our higher Amp Hours models, just the smaller extremely lightweight models that the ultra performance guys want to save weight

You can visit our website at https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/

You can see the Auto Battery Line here https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...es/automotive/


Below is a video of our latest Battery for Automobiles....
If you have any questions we would be glad to answer them.

 

I wanted to follow up with two other product we make...

1- We make the MICRO-START mini-jump Starters, our XP-10 model won Consumer Reports "Best Rated Jump- Starter" but we have a full line of mini Jump Starters and Accessories that go with them. We actually were the first to introduced this product in 2013. But now there are many different companies doing this, but we can say we are the most powerful and most compact you can get. You can see them here...
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co.../micro-starts/

You can see the video here for the XP-10 model but we have a number of different sizes...

 

The only way to tell if a battery has the proper CCA and Reserve Capacity is to fully charge it and have it properly load tested at the Auto Parts store or shop. Using a hydrometer to measure each cell is also recommended.

Take the battery to AutoZone and have them test it. That will tell you what condition its in.

Most batteries even though they are SEALED, they usually have vent caps under the label on top. You can lift that label and see if there is proper electrolyte in each cell I've seen too many sealed no service battery with low levels of electrolyte.

Bill

 

I AGREE with TEXHAWK0. That is a very old issue and no longer effects modern batteries. NOT AN ISSUE!

Bill

 

Welcome to the forum Antigravity. I'm reluctant to steal this thread, but since you posted here..... I run a lithium iron phosphate battery in my Harley (customized Sportster, very fast). My battery is so small and light it doesn't seem possible it would work, but it does. These batteries function a bit differently from a lead acid or AGM battery, and unless your company has come up with something different altogether, they require slightly higher voltage to charge fully. While I don't think this is a big deal for a good alternator, I'm curious how the crazy C5 electronics system is going to respond with the slightly higher voltage (unless yours is more like a lead-acid or AGM voltage). Also, I can't use a standard battery tender on my Lithium battery, had to get one designed for Lithium. Do standard battery tenders work on your battery? Looked over your website, didn't find my answers.

 

Agree with above. I've had batteries that "charged" enough to fool a digital charger into thinking it was complete, then drop to 1 or 2 volts on a load test. Another thing I've seen is a battery being charged that climbed above 14 or 15 volts on the monitor. One might jump to conclusions that their charger is malfunctioning, but sometimes it's actually a defective battery causing it (look like it's overcharging).

 

To clarify... A lead/acid battery's resting voltage is usually in the range of 12.6v to 12.8v....our Llithium-Ion Battery at a resting voltage is at 13.2v to 13.3v. So the difference between the resting voltages of the two are are about 0.6v. So that is not a high degree of difference in resting voltage between the two. So they operate in basically the same voltage ranges.


So to bring that into real-world operation.... this mild difference does not effect anything because the slightly higher resting voltage of the Lithium Battery is not enough for your Car to know or think something is out of the ordinary because of the fact that once the car is started it is usually immediately charging the battery in the high 13v to mid 14v ranges. So an Automobile is designed to operate in a standardized voltage range for charging, this varies a little from vehicle to vehicle but in general it is from roughly 13.8v to 14.8v when charging. So in effect if the Lead/Acid Battery was charged on a long drive and its sitting at 13.8v when you stop at the Gas Station.... does it notice or think something is odd because its Lead/Acid battery is now sitting at 13.8v since you just pulled over after driving it? No, it doesn't see anything as odd. So it is the same with a lithium battery in your C5, it just see 13.2v and thinks it just a well charged Lead/Acid Battery and starts and operates as normal.


.As far as the charging voltage needing to be higher for a Lithium... That is not really accurate because even at a 13.8v charge coming from an Alternator that is sufficient to charge a Lithium Battery for sure. It is absolutely true you need to take a battery into HIGHER voltages than it's resting voltage to charge it fully... but 13.8v is the newer charge profile for AGM Batteries in modern cars, and that is perfectly fine for Lithium. Older Cars with FLA (flooded lead/acid) usually are in the 14v ranges. Also note Lithium can also be charged at up to 15v.... so it has a wider operating range than AGM in terms of a charge voltage range.


Why we say to use a Lithium Specific Charger is ONLY because many if the Lead/Acid Chargers nowadays have a De-Sulphate Mode that can spike voltage above 17v to remove Sulphate from a Lead/Acid Battery plates. This is not going to happen to a Lithium Battery and the higher voltage like 17v are not good for lithium batteries. Our batteries have a built-in protection against this but we still don't want to see the battery subjected to that. You could actually charge a lithium battery fine with a lead acid charger IF you only do it for 10 to 15 minutes as an emergency just to get some energy back into it. But last.... remember our Battery will NOT need to be charged really ever since if you come back to it over discharge you just press the RE-START button and you can drive away and recharge the battery while driving. Or you could just hook it up to the charger again.

 

Antigravity: Three standard lithium-ion cells in series, or four? I'm assuming four.

Your battery has built-in over-discharge protection, so if the car sits there drawing too much current, it'll fully cut the car off before it gets discharged too low to start the car? Neat.

 

Wow! And all this for a mere 800 bucks.

 

All this is nice but how long does the battery last? If 7 years and 800.00 cost kind of puts it out of the normal use market. Also your warranty is only 5 years for street again kind of costly.

Really great idea but think it is way too expensive still.

 

4-Cells in Series and Parallel Connections, full BMS, Lifepo4 Lithium Chemistry.

Yes exactly, on how the battery operates, also by the Battery going into it SLEEP MODE it saves the battery from Over-Discharge damage. The #1 cause of any battery having a shorter lifespan ( aside from the Lead/acid manufacturers now making cheaper batteries that don't last long) is an accidental over discharge that takes the battery below 10v. This goes for any chemistry be it Lead/Acid , Lithium and others. Batteries are only designed to work in a limited voltage range. Then with the Wire-less key fob you just press the button the Battery awakens and you can start the car and drive away. It will hold the charge for about 4 to 5 months if you let it sit there in SLEEP mode.... so you have plenty of time to come back to it and start the car.