HELP! C5 1997 engine dies when it gets warm!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
Yep, the scanner is defenetely the way to go.
The old crank sensor didn't have rust on it and the new one didn't have any contaminant.
The car started ok once when I tried it before assembling the exhaust back.
After that nothing worked.
Now I can smell fuel but no spark at all.
One thing might be to go through all of the grounding points?
The old crank sensor didn't have rust on it and the new one didn't have any contaminant.
The car started ok once when I tried it before assembling the exhaust back.
After that nothing worked.
Now I can smell fuel but no spark at all.
One thing might be to go through all of the grounding points?
You need to get it on a decent scanner and see what signal(s) go away. Sounds like when you go into closed loop mode is where the issue happens.
One other thing, one GM i changed the crank sensor (a Bonneville) had a bunch of rust particles attached to it (it is a magnetic pickup), did you notice any of this on you old sensor? Wonder if the sensor wiring/connector is bad or the new sensor is covered in some kind of contaminant.
One other thing, one GM i changed the crank sensor (a Bonneville) had a bunch of rust particles attached to it (it is a magnetic pickup), did you notice any of this on you old sensor? Wonder if the sensor wiring/connector is bad or the new sensor is covered in some kind of contaminant.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Go to the Fuses for the injectors and coils and MEASURE them to Ground and see if they have batery voltage when the ignition switch is on. You cna measure the ground wire in the main connectors for the left and right coil connector. Check for power on the pink wire in that connector also (ignition ON)
PCM 16 & INJR 1 and INJR 2 etc.. (NOTE This is a 02 schematic, Yours may be different fuse & relay numbers but the layout is most likely the same)
Just figure out what number fuses and relays match up to your 97
PCM 16 & INJR 1 and INJR 2 etc.. (NOTE This is a 02 schematic, Yours may be different fuse & relay numbers but the layout is most likely the same)
Just figure out what number fuses and relays match up to your 97
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
Thanks a lot guys! 
I will check the ignition again.
Another question:
Do you know if the crank sensor gives the licence for both fuel and spark or only for spark?
How about if the cam sensor is ok?
Just trying to figure out the current behavior.
Thanks!
Olli
I will check the ignition again.
Another question:
Do you know if the crank sensor gives the licence for both fuel and spark or only for spark?
How about if the cam sensor is ok?
Just trying to figure out the current behavior.
Thanks!
Olli
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
Thank you !!
Hi guys!
Thank you all for your greatest support in this problem!
I finally figured it out after using the oscilloscope for testing.
I actually connected the Motec M800 ECU to work in conjuction with the original GM ECU.
The problem was the wiring to the Crank position sensor and possibly also the crank sensor itself was slightly giving up as well.
However the main problem was the wiring and was extremely hard to test since moving the cable didn't really change the situation but when the cable got hot it started to cut the ignition.
I made a new cable with proper heat detection and it's now better quality than the original.
I also think the original cable went way too close to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger and I routed the new cable slightly differently.
Cheers,
Olli
Thank you all for your greatest support in this problem!
I finally figured it out after using the oscilloscope for testing.
I actually connected the Motec M800 ECU to work in conjuction with the original GM ECU.
The problem was the wiring to the Crank position sensor and possibly also the crank sensor itself was slightly giving up as well.
However the main problem was the wiring and was extremely hard to test since moving the cable didn't really change the situation but when the cable got hot it started to cut the ignition.
I made a new cable with proper heat detection and it's now better quality than the original.
I also think the original cable went way too close to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger and I routed the new cable slightly differently.
Cheers,
Olli
