HELP! C5 1997 engine dies when it gets warm!
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Joined: May 2013
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HELP! C5 1997 engine dies when it gets warm!
Hi guys,
I have a problem with my 1997 C5:
The car starts normally when the engine is cold and drives normally until the engine gets in the operating temperatures (around 190F).
Then when I let it cool down for a while (around 15 minutes it starts normally again and runs normally until it suddenly completely dies again after ca. 2 miles.
Then I need to repeat the same again.. Let it cool down for a while.
I remember reading that some of the C5 owners have had issues of the engine dying suddenly but then it starts normally right after and it doesn't die again for another 400 miles or so.
I have the following codes:
RDCM B2223 H (which seems to indicate the right door control module communication error like some other engine "dying" issues here)
BCM 2482 H
PCM P0327 H
PCM P1571 H
(these three I don't think have anything to do with this problem)
I'm thankful of any kind of advice since the car is currently out of the road until I get this problem figured out somehow.
Thanks in advance guys!
Olli
I have a problem with my 1997 C5:
The car starts normally when the engine is cold and drives normally until the engine gets in the operating temperatures (around 190F).
Then when I let it cool down for a while (around 15 minutes it starts normally again and runs normally until it suddenly completely dies again after ca. 2 miles.
Then I need to repeat the same again.. Let it cool down for a while.
I remember reading that some of the C5 owners have had issues of the engine dying suddenly but then it starts normally right after and it doesn't die again for another 400 miles or so.
I have the following codes:
RDCM B2223 H (which seems to indicate the right door control module communication error like some other engine "dying" issues here)
BCM 2482 H
PCM P0327 H
PCM P1571 H
(these three I don't think have anything to do with this problem)
I'm thankful of any kind of advice since the car is currently out of the road until I get this problem figured out somehow.
Thanks in advance guys!
Olli
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 854
From: MI
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Hello,
As you seem to be able to duplicate the issue, It would be interesting to know if you just start the engine and let the engine warm up without driving it, (in your driveway) to see once the engine warms up, it shuts down.
Another question> When the engine does shut down, does the dash light up like a Xmas tree with the warning lamps and such? Or when the engine shuts down, does the dash act as if you “turned the key to the off” position?
If you can post up how the dash is acting during the engine shut down it would be helpful.
Additionally, clear all “H” codes and at the moment of engine shut down >do not place the key to the off position<, pull the codes and post them.
Kevin
As you seem to be able to duplicate the issue, It would be interesting to know if you just start the engine and let the engine warm up without driving it, (in your driveway) to see once the engine warms up, it shuts down.
Another question> When the engine does shut down, does the dash light up like a Xmas tree with the warning lamps and such? Or when the engine shuts down, does the dash act as if you “turned the key to the off” position?
If you can post up how the dash is acting during the engine shut down it would be helpful.
Additionally, clear all “H” codes and at the moment of engine shut down >do not place the key to the off position<, pull the codes and post them.
Kevin
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
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Thanks Kevin!
Yes, it duplicates the same effect when only on idle.
I start the cold engine and the car idles without any problems for
Around 3-5 minutes and the dies just like Turning the key To switch it off.
The dash doesn't show anything Wild at that Moment, just goes like you
would Turn the ignition off using the key.
When the engine dies while I'm driving the car and I'm trying To open the throttle to keep the engine alive the tachometer does Some fast up and downs and Then again like I'd have switched the car off using the key.
I'm currently on a Holiday trio and I'll be back on next Friday.
I'll reset the history codes and check What pops up on the display after the issue.
I'll Let You know! :-)
Thanks again for You reply!
Olli
Yes, it duplicates the same effect when only on idle.
I start the cold engine and the car idles without any problems for
Around 3-5 minutes and the dies just like Turning the key To switch it off.
The dash doesn't show anything Wild at that Moment, just goes like you
would Turn the ignition off using the key.
When the engine dies while I'm driving the car and I'm trying To open the throttle to keep the engine alive the tachometer does Some fast up and downs and Then again like I'd have switched the car off using the key.
I'm currently on a Holiday trio and I'll be back on next Friday.
I'll reset the history codes and check What pops up on the display after the issue.
I'll Let You know! :-)
Thanks again for You reply!
Olli
Hello,
As you seem to be able to duplicate the issue, It would be interesting to know if you just start the engine and let the engine warm up without driving it, (in your driveway) to see once the engine warms up, it shuts down.
Another question> When the engine does shut down, does the dash light up like a Xmas tree with the warning lamps and such? Or when the engine shuts down, does the dash act as if you “turned the key to the off” position?
If you can post up how the dash is acting during the engine shut down it would be helpful.
Additionally, clear all “H” codes and at the moment of engine shut down >do not place the key to the off position<, pull the codes and post them.
Kevin
As you seem to be able to duplicate the issue, It would be interesting to know if you just start the engine and let the engine warm up without driving it, (in your driveway) to see once the engine warms up, it shuts down.
Another question> When the engine does shut down, does the dash light up like a Xmas tree with the warning lamps and such? Or when the engine shuts down, does the dash act as if you “turned the key to the off” position?
If you can post up how the dash is acting during the engine shut down it would be helpful.
Additionally, clear all “H” codes and at the moment of engine shut down >do not place the key to the off position<, pull the codes and post them.
Kevin
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Seeing that you have a 97, my first suspect area would be the IGNITION SWITCH.
The check and repair is FREE and fairly simple. Check out this post and see what turns up:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Bill
The check and repair is FREE and fairly simple. Check out this post and see what turns up:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
Seeing that you have a 97, my first suspect area would be the IGNITION SWITCH.
The check and repair is FREE and fairly simple. Check out this post and see what turns up:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Bill
The check and repair is FREE and fairly simple. Check out this post and see what turns up:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Bill
Could You please resend the link?
I can't open it for Some reason.
Thanks again!
Olli
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
I'm back home again and I have a moment to check a bit deeper to the problem.
I started the car after it had been standstill for a week and everything went flawlessy.
It idled until it got hot (ca. 5-10 minutes) and again.. it suddenly died and won't start again.
The problem must have something to do with the heat.
Anyway..
I checked out the alarms and the ones I seem not to be able to delete is the RDCM B2223 H -alarm.
The right hand door window and door lock are both working without problems.
The next thing I will check is the ignition switch.
I would assume that the problem would occur also when the car is cold if the switch would be the issue?
Thanks in advance again!
Olli
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
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Now the Car won't start at All anymore.
Hopefully I'll have Some more information after I get My laptop connected.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 282
Likes: 4
From: Dayton Ohio
Check for fuel injector pulse with a test light or noid light. If you have injector pulse but no spark, replace the crank sensor. Plugs may also be fuel soaked now. Wouldn't hurt to pull a few to inspect them.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
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Hi guys!
It seems I located the problem, at least I think so.
I did 2 things in between testing the car:
1.
I replaced a REALLY dead battery which didn't charge almost at all no matter how long you run to a brand new one.
2.
I disconnected the crank sensor plug, checked it and put it back.
The engine died once after that after ca. 20 minutes driving and now the car has been working for 2 days without any problem.
Could it have been the dead battery causing some kind of unstable voltage issues (affcting to the crank sensor) or could it be the crank sensor wiring?
Very hard to say.
Anyway, I'll be upgrading the turbo's to bigger ones in a month or so and while the turbo's are out I'll replace the crank sensor anyway and check the crank sensor wiring from the ECU until the crank sensor.
Just for sure.
Thank you all for your great help.
This is how all the forums should be like!
Olli
It seems I located the problem, at least I think so.
I did 2 things in between testing the car:
1.
I replaced a REALLY dead battery which didn't charge almost at all no matter how long you run to a brand new one.
2.
I disconnected the crank sensor plug, checked it and put it back.
The engine died once after that after ca. 20 minutes driving and now the car has been working for 2 days without any problem.
Could it have been the dead battery causing some kind of unstable voltage issues (affcting to the crank sensor) or could it be the crank sensor wiring?
Very hard to say.
Anyway, I'll be upgrading the turbo's to bigger ones in a month or so and while the turbo's are out I'll replace the crank sensor anyway and check the crank sensor wiring from the ECU until the crank sensor.
Just for sure.
Thank you all for your great help.
This is how all the forums should be like!
Olli
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
Having recently been through this ordeal, I still think that you have a bad crank sensor. The car can run fine for weeks without a hiccup and then suddenly, the engine will shut down for absolutely no reason. It took me months to finally track it down to a CKP sensor slowly dying. I also found out that CKP sensors are notoriously bad on GM cars of that era and they often do not give you any error codes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
Having recently been through this ordeal, I still think that you have a bad crank sensor. The car can run fine for weeks without a hiccup and then suddenly, the engine will shut down for absolutely no reason. It took me months to finally track it down to a CKP sensor slowly dying. I also found out that CKP sensors are notoriously bad on GM cars of that era and they often do not give you any error codes.
Seen this behavior several times on GM products. Best way to tell is to graph the crank pulses but you have to have a graphing OBD scanner to do it.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
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Hello guys!
Update:
I replaced the crank position sensor and first the car started OK.
Then when I put the ignition on next time the fuel pump started to work on,off,on,off,etc.. Also the rev gauge started to jump up and down and check engine light went on and off..
Anyway, after a while everything settled down but the car won't start.
Engine gets fuel since I can smell it and the fuel pump is working.
Also the diagnostic via HP Tuner shows that the injectors are open but the rev speed shows zero while starting and there is no spark.
It seems that the behavior changes after replacing the crank position sensor but now I'm even more confused.
There might be a problem with the ECU itself or just a bad connector.
It might have been that there has actually been 2 different faults:
The crank position sensor AND the ECU/wiring.
Really strange situation. :-(
Update:
I replaced the crank position sensor and first the car started OK.
Then when I put the ignition on next time the fuel pump started to work on,off,on,off,etc.. Also the rev gauge started to jump up and down and check engine light went on and off..
Anyway, after a while everything settled down but the car won't start.
Engine gets fuel since I can smell it and the fuel pump is working.
Also the diagnostic via HP Tuner shows that the injectors are open but the rev speed shows zero while starting and there is no spark.
It seems that the behavior changes after replacing the crank position sensor but now I'm even more confused.
There might be a problem with the ECU itself or just a bad connector.
It might have been that there has actually been 2 different faults:
The crank position sensor AND the ECU/wiring.
Really strange situation. :-(
Its an hour job and HEY,,,,,,,,,, its EASY!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
Thanks!
I made a jumper wire and bypassed the ignition switch and the same problem still occurs.
The strange thing is that the problem changed a bit after replacing the crank position sensor (or it might be that it only happened to act differently for a short while).
What kind of error codes you received when the ignition switch was broken?
Thanks again!
Olli
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2013
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Also, forgot to mention that I connected to the ECU via HP Tuners and the connection between the computer and the ECU doesn't cut when the fuel pump goes off and on again.
I even reflashed the ECU so that the security is disabled just to check that the antitheft system is not the problem.
And no, it's not.
Cam position sensor?
That could be the reason but I'd rather try all the other options before that since it's a big job to replace and if that's NOT the problem.. :-/
Olli
I even reflashed the ECU so that the security is disabled just to check that the antitheft system is not the problem.
And no, it's not.
Cam position sensor?
That could be the reason but I'd rather try all the other options before that since it's a big job to replace and if that's NOT the problem.. :-/
Olli
Hey Bill!
Thanks!
I made a jumper wire and bypassed the ignition switch and the same problem still occurs.
The strange thing is that the problem changed a bit after replacing the crank position sensor (or it might be that it only happened to act differently for a short while).
What kind of error codes you received when the ignition switch was broken?
Thanks again!
Olli
Thanks!
I made a jumper wire and bypassed the ignition switch and the same problem still occurs.
The strange thing is that the problem changed a bit after replacing the crank position sensor (or it might be that it only happened to act differently for a short while).
What kind of error codes you received when the ignition switch was broken?
Thanks again!
Olli
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 9
You need to get it on a decent scanner and see what signal(s) go away. Sounds like when you go into closed loop mode is where the issue happens.
One other thing, one GM i changed the crank sensor (a Bonneville) had a bunch of rust particles attached to it (it is a magnetic pickup), did you notice any of this on you old sensor? Wonder if the sensor wiring/connector is bad or the new sensor is covered in some kind of contaminant.
One other thing, one GM i changed the crank sensor (a Bonneville) had a bunch of rust particles attached to it (it is a magnetic pickup), did you notice any of this on you old sensor? Wonder if the sensor wiring/connector is bad or the new sensor is covered in some kind of contaminant.
Last edited by 3boystoys; Aug 8, 2013 at 10:41 AM.