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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 11:19 PM
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Default Radiator Pic Needed

I continue to have some cooling problems.

The first owner of my 99 installed a Donaldson filter and modified the area formerly behind the OE air filter. I need o a pic of the OE configuration to determine if this mod is affecting airflow and cooling.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Not sure exactly what photo you need but can provide some thoughts. These cars pick up lots of stuff that lodges in the condenser and the radiator. We did a cam in a friends 04 five years ago so the car wasn't that old at the time. Radiator looked clean prior to removal. Upon removing we found tons of small sand particles blocking the air flow. Unless the shroud is collapsed, I would verify the radiator and condenser are clean and have good flow. You may want to first just pull the shroud and gently lift off the condenser where it clips to the radiator and check the radiator for cleanliness.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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Right you are, Vettenuts.
I flushed the condenser and radiator as best I could without dis assembling things and quite a bit of junk fell out. This helped but traffic in 100 degrees in Texas is still taxing my system.

I intend to open things up and flush again but I am also suspect of the mod the first owner added. To make room for the Donaldson, a recess was added to the front shroud that reduced the clearance in front of the condenser. I'm trying to understand the potential impact on airflow across the condenser (AC works fine) and radiator.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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Maybe you could post a pic of your setup and some of this forum's HIGHLY knowledgeable "staff" could give you some opinions.

Here is a pic of the topside of my air dam with my air intake taken off. (do not have the energy to jack it up to get pics if that is what you were looking for)

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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Vette04GTO
Maybe you could post a pic of your setup and some of this forum's HIGHLY knowledgeable "staff" could give you some opinions.

Here is a pic of the topside of my air dam with my air intake taken off. (do not have the energy to jack it up to get pics if that is what you were looking for)

Exactly what I was hoping to see. Thanks very much!
W
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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Can you post a pic of what he did? Also, any mods to the air dam?
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 11:44 AM
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I'm out of town away from the Vette so can't post a pic til next week.
To make room for the Donaldson, the first owner cut a 14" x 14" hole in the shroud that sits in front of the condenser and then installed a 1" deep recessed panel in the hole. This provided room for the Donaldson but reduced the space between the shroud and condenser.
I have now removed the Donaldon and installed a Vararam so the space provided by the mod is not needed.
The AC seems to work fine but the car is running hot in traffic.
I'll blow out the condenser and radiator soon but I'm wondering if I need to go to the effort to replace the modified shroud with an in modified OE shroud also.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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You may be able to get a sheet of material and use some rivets to close the hole after you remove what he installed (if you can). At least this would tell you whether that was the issue prior to installing a new shroud. I would opt for the new shroud myself.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 09:54 PM
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Any downside to leaving the hole open?
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 10:10 PM
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Yes! You will get much less air flow through the radiator with an open hole in the shroud. If its not being used for fresh air for an intake system, block it off

What cooling temps are you seeing that concerns you??

You are not having issues until your past 230 on an OEM System. I know that sounds CRAZY but OEM normal operating temps are 210....

Unless you have a lower temp T stat, reprogrammed fan temps and a 100% properly functioning cooling system, temps are going to be high.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 26, 2013 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Yes! You will get much less air flow through the radiator with an open hole in the shroud. If its not being used for fresh air for an intake system, block it off

What cooling temps are you seeing that concerns you??

You are not having issues until your past 230 on an OEM System. I know that sounds CRAZY but OEM normal operating temps are 210....

Unless you have a lower temp T stat, reprogrammed fan temps and a 100% properly functioning cooling system, temps are going to be high.

Bill
Perhaps it's not as bad as I fear.
In traffic, I'm seeing220-235; occasionally higher. Last week I hit 255 and boiled over.

I'll clean up the condenser and radiator and replace the mod with a flat sheet metal piece and see where I am.

Thanks to all for comments.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 11:40 PM
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Block off the unused shroud opening, clean the radiator/condenser, make sure that BOTH your cooling fans are working normally. They should both be in high speed at those temps. What is your antifreeze/water mixture.

Check it with a hydrometer and make sure the mixture will support your boil-over threshold. Make sure that you have an updated pressure cap. The newer ones have a higher pressure rating and if your old one will not keep OEM pressure in the system, no matter what you do, its going to boil over.

Ant garage can check the cap for proper pressure relief.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Block off the unused shroud opening, clean the radiator/condenser, make sure that BOTH your cooling fans are working normally. They should both be in high speed at those temps. What is your antifreeze/water mixture.

Check it with a hydrometer and make sure the mixture will support your boil-over threshold. Make sure that you have an updated pressure cap. The newer ones have a higher pressure rating and if your old one will not keep OEM pressure in the system, no matter what you do, its going to boil over.

Ant garage can check the cap for proper pressure relief.
Hi Bill,
Both fans are working. Coolant is 50-50 Dexcool. Mu hygrometer tells me freeze protection point but not boiling point. Pressure cap is OE so it's 13 years old. I'll check it also.
thanks for all the tips
W
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 12:47 AM
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Simple chart on ratio vs boil over temps in a non pressurized system and some antifreeze info.

http://www.epa.gov/kidshometour/products/coolant.htm

When you add system pressure, you increase the boil over temp.

If your cap is original OEM,,, Go ahead and get the new up dated pressure cap for far more boil over protection.

Bill
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Simple chart on ratio vs boil over temps in a non pressurized system and some antifreeze info.

http://www.epa.gov/kidshometour/products/coolant.htm

When you add system pressure, you increase the boil over temp.

If your cap is original OEM,,, Go ahead and get the new up dated pressure cap for far more boil over protection.

Bill
You. sir, are a fountain of knowledge!

Thanks mucho.
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 02:21 AM
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Go here to see Dave's Blackwing filter intake scoop mod. Click on "Cold air modification for Halltech Stinger and Blackwing-Equipped C5s":

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/corvette_c5_corner.htm

Dave (Dave68) came up with this air scoop modification for Blackwings (current name for Donaldson) OR Halltech filters years ago and it works very well and is inexpensive. It also does NOT cause ANY overheating issues.

I performed this surgery years ago when I still had my LS1 and was running a Blackwing filter. It worked well. Btw, the Blackwings do not require any "clearance" holes. This mod is done to strictly improve airflow directly to the filter body itself and thus a source for cooler outside ambient air. The addition of the "scoop" assists with that effort.
If you are truly experiencing heating issues beyond the normal ranges mentioned here by others, then you have other issues to think about, mainly airflow blockage. You may even need to remove the upper radiator support and pull the fan shroud back a bit and pressure wash your radiator from behind. A lot of people have done this over the years and were surprised at how much debris accumulates in the radiator fins, not to mention the improvement in cooling.

HTH
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Go here to see Dave's Blackwing filter intake scoop mod. Click on "Cold air modification for Halltech Stinger and Blackwing-Equipped C5s":

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/corvette_c5_corner.htm

Dave (Dave68) came up with this air scoop modification for Blackwings (current name for Donaldson) OR Halltech filters years ago and it works very well and is inexpensive. It also does NOT cause ANY overheating issues.

I performed this surgery years ago when I still had my LS1 and was running a Blackwing filter. It worked well. Btw, the Blackwings do not require any "clearance" holes. This mod is done to strictly improve airflow directly to the filter body itself and thus a source for cooler outside ambient air. The addition of the "scoop" assists with that effort.
If you are truly experiencing heating issues beyond the normal ranges mentioned here by others, then you have other issues to think about, mainly airflow blockage. You may even need to remove the upper radiator support and pull the fan shroud back a bit and pressure wash your radiator from behind. A lot of people have done this over the years and were surprised at how much debris accumulates in the radiator fins, not to mention the improvement in cooling.

HTH
More good tips!
Thanks
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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Sorry I didn't see this thread before today. I just had my cooling system disassembled to clean radiator. In the past I cleaned it by vacuuming, blowing, etc. with it in the car. This time I wanted to really clean it well after all the years I've owned it. I took it and clean as well as possible to make it like almost new. The amount of junk coming out was totally amazing. Just removing it, tons of stuff was coming out. The amount of debris when actually cleaning it was amazing. It amazed me that any air flowed through it at all. I can see light thru it now.
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