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gauges out car will not run, HELP !

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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Default gauges out car will not run, HELP !

OK so my 04 in excellent condition was dying today as though no gas in tank. A message was coming up regarding "charging system fault". Soon it wasn't running at all but the battery and starter seemed strong. When I turn the key to on, momentarily all looks good on the dash but after a second or two everything goes off although the key is still in the on position. It will still crank but not start more than a few seconds. I checked and cleaned the terminals and grounds which looked good
Still n g! Suggestions please! Thanksq
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick1
OK so my 04 in excellent condition was dying today as though no gas in tank. A message was coming up regarding "charging system fault". Soon it wasn't running at all but the battery and starter seemed strong. When I turn the key to on, momentarily all looks good on the dash but after a second or two everything goes off although the key is still in the on position. It will still crank but not start more than a few seconds. I checked and cleaned the terminals and grounds which looked good
Still n g! Suggestions please! Thanksq
Pull the codes and post them to this thread, lets see what faults codes you have.
Monty
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 10:17 PM
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Checking the battery and connections is always a good place to start, esp with the charge system fault.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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Cant get the codes up with a blank dash with no power. Will try a new battery later today.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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Also the did goes out so I can't get the codes. While it ran a bit it did say "charging system fault".
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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Just check the battery connections for corrosion first.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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Also the dic goes out so I can't get the codes. While it ran a bit it did say "charging system fault".
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 09:22 AM
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All connections were checked and re cleaned. Even look OK to begin with! Also did the ground locations.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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So when you turn the key to ON nothing comes on at all?
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 10:24 AM
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For a second or so all comes up as normal then eveything goes blank, needles go back to their rest positions as though you turned the car off. Turning to the start position, the engine spins well on the starter. It will sputter a bit now but no running time. I'm going to try a friends scanner but not sure if it's going to work with the dic going out too. I will also switch batterys just as a try. Any other ideas? When it did run and was fritzing out, it was like in those flying saucer reports where the electronics start going haywire and the dash making buzzing sounds. WTF
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 10:40 AM
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Sounds like a ground issue.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 05:06 PM
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Default I just yesterday

I experienced a problem where the dic and HUD went out with car running fine. I drove it for awhile then shut it off and when I came back and started it, they were working fine. Then a bit later, out they went. Car ran fine, then magically they came back on.

I already checked and cleaned all grounds and battery cons. Still happening on and off.

Codes are: BCM, SDM, Radio, HVAC,LDCM and RDCM all U1096-H

This problem just appeared and I am damned glad I did not complete the sale of the car.

Not trying to hijack this post, but the problem is similar. Any ideas for either of us.

Last edited by David Shiel; Aug 3, 2013 at 05:08 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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You are loosing ignition supplied power to the main modules. Each electronics module (IPC, BCM, PCM, etc.. etc.. ) is supplied power via two separate power wires. One from the battery (keeps the memory alive) and is called HOT AT ALL TIMES. The other power comes from the IGNITION SWITCH and is called HOT IN RUN & START.

When the ignition switch gets crapped up and the contacts get carboned and burnt, the switch outputs less than full battery voltage due to high resistance thru the bad contacts.

Ive seen the switch output as low as 4 VDC. When you load the switch, it can drop to zero.

When the modules see less than 9 VDC, they trip off line and shut down

That is where I would start FIRST!

Bill
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:40 PM
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Default Bill, mine is an 01

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You are loosing ignition supplied power to the main modules. Each electronics module (IPC, BCM, PCM, etc.. etc.. ) is supplied power via two separate power wires. One from the battery (keeps the memory alive) and is called HOT AT ALL TIMES. The other power comes from the IGNITION SWITCH and is called HOT IN RUN & START.

When the ignition switch gets crapped up and the contacts get carboned and burnt, the switch outputs less than full battery voltage due to high resistance thru the bad contacts.

Ive seen the switch output as low as 4 VDC. When you load the switch, it can drop to zero.

When the modules see less than 9 VDC, they trip off line and shut down

That is where I would start FIRST!

Bill
with only 18K on it. Your input on the switch makes real sense. Sometimes if I restart the car the gauges come back up. A dealer replaced the DIC at about 13K and obviously did not solve the problem.
I never suspected the switch or figured out the powering of the modules you mention through the switch.

I guess I will look into replacing the switch. Do I get the new one re keyed or is the cylinder separate ?

Thanks,
Dave
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Default elec probs

It appears that the key/tumbler is separate from the elec. switch. See Bill Curlee's posts and pics on this.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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The tumbler (key cylinder) is removable from the switch. The cylinder also has the key chip sensor on it.

When you get a new switch, it does not come with a cylinder/sensor.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

BC
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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Default Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by Nick1
It appears that the key/tumbler is separate from the elec. switch. See Bill Curlee's posts and pics on this.
Yes, I just did the search and see that they are separate. Should hae done it first. My bad.

It looks like a seriously big job to get the switch out. With Bill's very detailed instructions, I feel I can repair the switch, but have not found clear instructions on actually getting it out. Any idea how long the removal and replacement takes?

I am a moderately talented, but far from really skilled shade tree wrench. I did remove the waterfall and console to effect some minor repairs. The lighter socket actually fell loose and that was the only way I could get to it to reattach it..

Bill Curlee is such a valuable resource and so patient and responsive to our amateur fumbling around. His input is invaluable and has doubtless saved us untold dollars and frustration. Thanks so much , Bill.











Dave

Last edited by David Shiel; Aug 4, 2013 at 09:57 AM. Reason: Add appreciation.
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To gauges out car will not run, HELP !

Old Aug 4, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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It takes me 30 min to remove it but, I can do it in my sleep. If you can remove the console, the rest isn't any more difficult


By the way,, I use to live in Summerville when the Navy was still there. Absolutely loved Charleston. I lived in Newington Plantation.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 4, 2013 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 10:45 AM
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Default Small world,Bill

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
It takes me 30 min to remove it but, I can do it in my sleep. If you can remove the console, the rest isn't any more difficult


By the way,, I use to live in Summerville when the Navy was still there. Absolutely loved Charleston. I lived in Newington Plantation.

Bill
I have friends in Newington. I have lived in the area since 1986 having relocated from Erie, Pa. For some time, I lived in Mt. Pleasant, but after retiring, I found a townhome in Summerville. Hurricane Hugo cured me of living so close to the coast.

I would guess that you were in Navy electronics ? My son-in-law is a Charleston Navy Nuclear Power School grad and is in Norfolk on subs. Now we have a huge SPAWAR installation here, and actually have more military presence than when the base was open. Sadly, the base has fallen into disuse. We were there the other day touring the Hunley submarine restoration complex. An amazing project. It was still in the electrolysis tank for accretion removal, but the progress was remarkable .

If you ever want to come to the Charleston area, we have ample private accommodations for guests, and we love to entertain. We get a lot of company, and even offer complimentary breakfast !

I found your instructions on removal, and am going to start on it later this week. We are going to the Biltmore Estate for a few days for some Ashville relaxation time.
Thanks again for all you do for us.
Kind regards,
Dave
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Default elec prob

Well as an update, it was the ignition switch! Thanks to Bill Curlee for his help in the diagnosis! Burnt contacts like in the multifunction switch. Another land mine waiting for me and you! New one cost me $72 from my local guy.
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