PLEASE HELP!!!....anyone!!!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: MS
PLEASE HELP!!!....anyone!!!
Here's my week. 
I had trouble with my '04 doing the "Turn Key and Nothing Happens" but bought a new key and that was great, for just over two weeks. Now this is what I have:
1) Turn key, sometimes nothing, other times cranks but security light stays on.
2) When it cranks get a "Charge SystemFault" message
3) AC button lights up, goes off....now button light stays on but compressor never kicks in, So in 100+ weather I have no air.
4) These are the codes I pulled:
10-PCM P1631 H
40-BCM B2721 H and B2723 H
60-IPC B0516 H
99-HVAC B0361 H and B0367 H
I'm BEGGING for any response here....at this point I would get rid of the car but like it is I couldn't sell nor trade it.
Anyone have a clue??????
I had trouble with my '04 doing the "Turn Key and Nothing Happens" but bought a new key and that was great, for just over two weeks. Now this is what I have:1) Turn key, sometimes nothing, other times cranks but security light stays on.
2) When it cranks get a "Charge SystemFault" message
3) AC button lights up, goes off....now button light stays on but compressor never kicks in, So in 100+ weather I have no air.
4) These are the codes I pulled:
10-PCM P1631 H
40-BCM B2721 H and B2723 H
60-IPC B0516 H
99-HVAC B0361 H and B0367 H
I'm BEGGING for any response here....at this point I would get rid of the car but like it is I couldn't sell nor trade it.
Anyone have a clue??????
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: MS
I pulled out my voltmeter to test the fuses, I checked it on the battery first and it was reading 12.30. So, with the key in the on position, I tested the fuses. All fuses in the engine bay read 0.00 or 0.01. I then tested the fuses in the footwell, but they all read 0.00 or 0.01. I thought they should show the battery output??? Anyway, that's what I have done. Not sure if it's a faulty voltmeter, but it reads the battery perfectly. Not sure that I determined anything there. Any thoughts?? I would rather not rip the dash out if there's no need.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: MS
Ok...went back and made sure I had sufficient ground. I found that with the key in the "ON" position all fuses under the hood read the battery voltage and all fuses in the footwell were at 0.00 or close to it every time. Is that not BACKWARDS to what the instruction link said it should be????
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 560
Likes: 3
From: Centennial Colorado
small electricity lesson:
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
is all I can say.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
small electricity lesson:
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3
if there is low volts on a fuse, say 2 or 3 volts, and the item is selected on, suspect a bad ground at or for the unit you are testing as the potential 12-14 volts cannot all be used up.
4 when checking a component with an ohm meter, low ohms uses lots of amps, and high ohms uses little amps.
For instance, a starter motor would show 1.5- 10 ohms between the big lug and ground or the case if the solenoid is energized, and the coil of the solenoid would show approx. 150-200 ohms, depending on the starter. take the power from the solenoid, and the big lug loses power (depending on the starter).
A light bulb that would show between 7.5 ohms to 15 ohms would be a headlight type bulb, but a bulb that shows 75-150 ohms would be tail light or stop light bulb.
LEDs work on 1.5- 1.75 volts, but to make them work on 12 volts, you have to put resistors on line with them so they do not burn up the second power is turned on. If you look at an LED circuit board, the resistors are all in series, unless they make the stop/tail light bulb the same LED. They make the tail light either separate, or they use different voltages using a different set of resistors to get the same series of LED's to go bright or dim.
Because LED bulbs use so little amps, a conventional turn signal flasher will not work because the bimetallic filaments in the flasher do not get hot enough to separate and cool off to make contact again. You have to use an electronic flasher,
but you knew that.....
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3
if there is low volts on a fuse, say 2 or 3 volts, and the item is selected on, suspect a bad ground at or for the unit you are testing as the potential 12-14 volts cannot all be used up.
4 when checking a component with an ohm meter, low ohms uses lots of amps, and high ohms uses little amps.
For instance, a starter motor would show 1.5- 10 ohms between the big lug and ground or the case if the solenoid is energized, and the coil of the solenoid would show approx. 150-200 ohms, depending on the starter. take the power from the solenoid, and the big lug loses power (depending on the starter).
A light bulb that would show between 7.5 ohms to 15 ohms would be a headlight type bulb, but a bulb that shows 75-150 ohms would be tail light or stop light bulb.
LEDs work on 1.5- 1.75 volts, but to make them work on 12 volts, you have to put resistors on line with them so they do not burn up the second power is turned on. If you look at an LED circuit board, the resistors are all in series, unless they make the stop/tail light bulb the same LED. They make the tail light either separate, or they use different voltages using a different set of resistors to get the same series of LED's to go bright or dim.
Because LED bulbs use so little amps, a conventional turn signal flasher will not work because the bimetallic filaments in the flasher do not get hot enough to separate and cool off to make contact again. You have to use an electronic flasher,
but you knew that.....
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3
Unless Im reading your electrical thought process totally wrong , I dont believe that is the correct information in paragraph 1.
If you read the two test points on top of the fuse to chassis ground/engine ground, and read 12 VDC, it indicates that voltage potential is there. It will be there if there is a load on the other end or not.
HOWEVER, if you have a fuse IN CIRCUIT and use the volt meter and read across the two test points on top of the fuse, you would NOT read any voltage if the fuse was GOOD. If the fuse was BAD and the circuit was powered and under load, you would see battery voltage, IF, the load was removed, you would NOT see any voltage.
In paragraph 2, If you are reading ACROSS the fuse test points or to ground?
BC
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,141
Likes: 4,156
From: Kannapolis NC
small electricity lesson:
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3if there is low volts on a fuse, say 2 or 3 volts, and the item is selected on, suspect a bad ground at or for the unit you are testing as the potential 12-14 volts cannot all be used up.
4 when checking a component with an ohm meter, low ohms uses lots of amps, and high ohms uses little amps.
For instance, a starter motor would show 1.5- 10 ohms between the big lug and ground or the case if the solenoid is energized, and the coil of the solenoid would show approx. 150-200 ohms, depending on the starter. take the power from the solenoid, and the big lug loses power (depending on the starter).
A light bulb that would show between 7.5 ohms to 15 ohms would be a headlight type bulb, but a bulb that shows 75-150 ohms would be tail light or stop light bulb.
....
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3if there is low volts on a fuse, say 2 or 3 volts, and the item is selected on, suspect a bad ground at or for the unit you are testing as the potential 12-14 volts cannot all be used up.
4 when checking a component with an ohm meter, low ohms uses lots of amps, and high ohms uses little amps.
For instance, a starter motor would show 1.5- 10 ohms between the big lug and ground or the case if the solenoid is energized, and the coil of the solenoid would show approx. 150-200 ohms, depending on the starter. take the power from the solenoid, and the big lug loses power (depending on the starter).
A light bulb that would show between 7.5 ohms to 15 ohms would be a headlight type bulb, but a bulb that shows 75-150 ohms would be tail light or stop light bulb.
....
Last edited by 65GGvert; Aug 11, 2013 at 08:30 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 719
small electricity lesson:
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3
if there is low volts on a fuse, say 2 or 3 volts, and the item is selected on, suspect a bad ground at or for the unit you are testing as the potential 12-14 volts cannot all be used up.
4 when checking a component with an ohm meter, low ohms uses lots of amps, and high ohms uses little amps.
For instance, a starter motor would show 1.5- 10 ohms between the big lug and ground or the case if the solenoid is energized, and the coil of the solenoid would show approx. 150-200 ohms, depending on the starter. take the power from the solenoid, and the big lug loses power (depending on the starter).
A light bulb that would show between 7.5 ohms to 15 ohms would be a headlight type bulb, but a bulb that shows 75-150 ohms would be tail light or stop light bulb.
LEDs work on 1.5- 1.75 volts, but to make them work on 12 volts, you have to put resistors on line with them so they do not burn up the second power is turned on. If you look at an LED circuit board, the resistors are all in series, unless they make the stop/tail light bulb the same LED. They make the tail light either separate, or they use different voltages using a different set of resistors to get the same series of LED's to go bright or dim.
Because LED bulbs use so little amps, a conventional turn signal flasher will not work because the bimetallic filaments in the flasher do not get hot enough to separate and cool off to make contact again. You have to use an electronic flasher,
but you knew that.....
1
if you read volts on both sides of the fuse, it means there is nothing on the other end of the fuse that uses any electricity because the volts potential is there but nothing is turned on that the fuse is protecting, and there is potential to do electrical work, like light a bulb.
2
If you read 00.0 on both sides of the fuse, the item that is protected is working and is selected on. There is no potential to do electrical work because it is happening while you make your readings. A fuse is just a really thin piece of wire. what's on one side should be on the other.
3
if there is low volts on a fuse, say 2 or 3 volts, and the item is selected on, suspect a bad ground at or for the unit you are testing as the potential 12-14 volts cannot all be used up.
4 when checking a component with an ohm meter, low ohms uses lots of amps, and high ohms uses little amps.
For instance, a starter motor would show 1.5- 10 ohms between the big lug and ground or the case if the solenoid is energized, and the coil of the solenoid would show approx. 150-200 ohms, depending on the starter. take the power from the solenoid, and the big lug loses power (depending on the starter).
A light bulb that would show between 7.5 ohms to 15 ohms would be a headlight type bulb, but a bulb that shows 75-150 ohms would be tail light or stop light bulb.
LEDs work on 1.5- 1.75 volts, but to make them work on 12 volts, you have to put resistors on line with them so they do not burn up the second power is turned on. If you look at an LED circuit board, the resistors are all in series, unless they make the stop/tail light bulb the same LED. They make the tail light either separate, or they use different voltages using a different set of resistors to get the same series of LED's to go bright or dim.
Because LED bulbs use so little amps, a conventional turn signal flasher will not work because the bimetallic filaments in the flasher do not get hot enough to separate and cool off to make contact again. You have to use an electronic flasher,
but you knew that.....