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I've had enough...I'm buying a bcm. I am so sick of the turn key and no start. Anyone have any ideas about where to buy one? Is a used or remanufactured one with a 12 month warranty just as good??? Not sure if that's the problem or if it's the key cylinder, ignition switch....who knows. Need some advice, I don't have deep pockets. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
To add a note, last week it was official, no AC, it will not come on.
Also saw a message that said "Charge System Fault" ( a couple of times ) and another while driving that said "Active Handling Warming Up" but they both went away. Security light usually stays on. If I knew I wouldn't get hurt I'd drive it off a bridge.
Codes:
10-PCM P1631H
40-BCM B2721H and B2723H
60-IPC B0516H
99-HVAC B0361H and B0367H
Last edited by Rickm1072; Aug 15, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
I've had enough...I'm buying a bcm. I am so sick of the turn key and no start. Anyone have any ideas about where to buy one? Is a used or remanufactured one with a 12 month warranty just as good??? Need some advice, I don't have deep pockets. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
My thoughts are...are you SURE you need a new bcm. They don't fail often unless they get wet. Turn key and no start can be due to many causes but a bcm problem is way down the list.
I would want at least want a 12 month warranty and a tech 2 will be needed to set the options on your car.
I hesitate to add anything here for fear of adding yet another dead end and frustration , but I had some problems along that same line. My security light would sometimes stay lit, or come on randomly. Starting was not dependable.
After a local shop foundered around with the thing, I took it to a dedicated corvette shop, since I was new to the car and didn't want to screw up anything electrical . Still very cautious with this stuff.
A trip to a dedicated corvette shop, if you are at my skill level, might cost no more than a used BCM and at the very worst result you will have an expert opinion on how to spend money on the car. The best result, fixed car, and a start of a business relationship, should you need them in the future.
I had already replaced the starter switch at the local place, what a burn, with no luck. The vette pro said he found a broken clip, sorry I didn't ask more questions. My lock is well worn , and probably could use attention, but still works , problems are more pressing.
I guess this is such an obvious answer I shouldn't have bothered, but I felt his pain. I've done my share of dead car, no fun. A lot of very skilled mechanics feel no hesitation to farm out electrical work.
Dont get flustrated. With the help here, you will be back on the road very soon. NO BCM, NO BRIDGES!!
You wallet will be glad you posted!
BC
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
BCM is not going to fix your NO Start problem.
Apparently you have NOT looked up the PCM or BCM codes.
They are telling you that your key is NOT being read correctly so the Security System is blocking the starter from operating. That little pellet on the key has a resistor value that MUST be read and MUST match what is stored in the BCM and PCM. It's not being read correctly and does not match.
Couple of things you can try.
1) Try your backup key. You do have a backup key???
2) Use the eraser on the end of a pencil to clean the pellet on the key and then wipe off the key with a soft lint free cloth.
3) Get an aerosol container of electrical contact cleaner. Parts stores or Radio Shack. Spray some in the key cylinder then insert and remove the key 8 or 10 times wiping the key off with a lint free cloth between insertions. There is a fine wire inside the key cylinder that passes across the pellet in the key to read it. It may have an oxidation coating on it.
4) If none of the above work the wire in the key cylinder may be damaged. If that is the case then you will need to buy a new key cylinder. Have it keyed to your present key by a lock smith before installing it so that you don't need separate keys for the other key cylinders and one for the ignition.
5) It's also possible to bypass the VATS system with some precision resistors that match the value of the pellet in your key. but then you have no security.
Hi...Quick note!!!! If Curlee says to Listen, then that will be the cheapest $$ fix you are going to BUY. I will tell you, he knows more about the electrical glitches of these cars than 99.9% of the engineers that worked on these cars. I've never met the man, talked to him on the phone numerous times with electrical problem you are trying to fix....Each time he had an answer that was right on!!! I know there are numerous, numerous guys on CF that will tell you the same
I've owned my c5 for 5+ years. I've had a gremlin on and of with what you are describing. I found that the original Delco battery leaked on the BCM which I believe is the cause of the issues so replacing the BCM may be a good idea.
I've owned my c5 for 5+ years. I've had a gremlin on and of with what you are describing. I found that the original Delco battery leaked on the BCM which I believe is the cause of the issues so replacing the BCM may be a good idea.
The BCM is inside the car, the PCM is under the battery, They do different things.
Thank you to all that replied. You guys were right...not the BCM. I replaced the key lock cylinder and that was it. Seems the sensors in my lock were not reading key correctly. Anyway, the cranking of the car is no longer an issue. But now I have to concentrate on my next problem. Will probably start new thread. A/C issues.
Thanks again for all the help!! Great site, great members!