1998 Convertible, nothing special.

So yesterday I decided to do a cleaning of the ignition switch contacts to eliminate a code I was getting. I forget now which one it was exactly, but it was one of the 4 referring to the pass key system.

I also had some weird start issues. Might have to hit the key twice, once would just crank but no fire. I'd have to turn the key off completely, turn back on and whalla, vrooom. Annoying but not the end of the world. About a month ago I replaced the injector relay, to no avail.

Then the other day I hit the key and nothing happened. So, I hit it again and all was fine again.

So I clean the switch yesterday and fully expect all the starting issues to go away, they did. I had the typical two burnt contact issues. Ok, all is good.

So as a test ride, my buddies boy is 16 and just got his permit, I asked him if he wanted to drive us up for dinner and ice cream at a local place that makes homemade ice cream, sells guns and has fishing tackle. He's into all 3! It's about 25 miles one way.

So on the way back, damn, I look over and there is the security light on. Well, it's been on for a year, nothing new here, but I thought I just fixed it.

Check the codes today, and no codes...

Wth? Did I have to check while he was driving and the light was on? I think all my door sensors, trunk and toneau cover all work properly. I just drove to work this morning and have not seen it again.

Any ideas?

 

I'll be sure to check them, thanks. I wasn't expecting that to be a temporary code. Especially since it's been throwing a vats code forever.

 

Get the same thing on my 98 once in a while. Clean the key pellet and spray electrical contact cleaner into the key slot.

 

IF,,,, the security light was ON/flashing when you turned on the ignition, the ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK.

IF,,,,, the light comes back on after the engine is running, you lost continunity between the KEY RESISTOR CHIP and the VATS circuit.

Bill

 

Gotcha Bill. The latter is correct. He was driving and it came on. The car starts fine.
Got any tricks for cleaning those contacts without taking that switch back out?

For that matter, I don't remember seeing them. Hmmm.. Are they visible or contained inside?

 

If the imbedded resistor chip in the key is not dirty and in good shape, it has to be the contacts inside the sensor on the end of the lock cylinder.

The small contacts inside the sensor are either dirty or they are spread apart. You can try spraying contact cleaner inside the sensor and inserting and removing the key a bunch of times.

If it were me, I would remove the lock cylinder and do some surgery on that sensor!

OH,,,,,,,, If you do,, PLEASE take some pictures!

BC

 

Bill, if it comes to that, I'll tear it apart before the contact cleaner. Since I just had it apart for the main contacts, it would be foolish to spray it now. Unfortunately, I go for back surgery friday, so this will not be done any time soon. But I will take photos when I do. I didn't take pics last time cause you already had nice ones here.

8Vette7, yea, actually, Guilty! I honestly don't think it's a lot, but, work keys, house keys, truck key, fob, all <1/3 of a pound (~150g). If it comes to a decision between taking my key off my keyring ( and potentially loosing it) or buying a new lock cylinder and ign switch, I'll buy new... Good tip though.

Thanks again guys!

 

Before doing anything, take a soft pencil eraser and burnish the metal strip on both sides of the key pellet. You have to burnish off the oxidized coating, it can't just be cleaned with alcohol, etc.