2001 c5, 54264miles and check engine light came on this is the error code i got when i tested it. Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 2) Malfunction. anyone know what that is ?

description:
Air hoses disconnected, loose, kinked or failed (a burnt hose)
AIR pump is damaged or has failed (inspect air pump for water)
AIR system check valves and/or pipes are damaged or leaking
PCM has failed

 

What is the actual code?

 

came up P1416

 

i have this gizmo called carMD vehicle health system and that was the only info it gave. but from what i was able to google it seems like a HO2S sensor has gone bad. the description i got was it has to do with the vehicles emissions . this gizmo claims it should cost approx $271 to have fixed

 

DTC P0101-P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112-P0118, P0121-P0123, P0131-P0138, P0140, P0141, P0151-P0155, P0171-P0175, P0200, P0300, P0325, P0327, P0332, P0335-P0336, P0351-P0358, P0430, P0500, P0502, P0503, P1133, P1134, P1153 and P1154 not set, engine started, engine speed over 850 rpm in closed loop, maximum airflow less than 22 g/sec, ECT sensor from 14-255ºF, IAT sensor from 14-212ºF, system voltage over 10.0v, engine load under 40%, A/F ratio at 13.125:1, P/E and DFCO mode inactive, Short Term fuel trim operating in Fuel Trim cells 1, 2, 5 or 20, and the PCM detected the front HO2S signal remained above 222 mv for 0.9 seconds, or the SHRTFT value did not change enough with the AIR pump "on". The PCM monitors the front HO2S signal in order to diagnose the AIR system. During the AIR test, the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. Once the AIR pump is "on", the PCM monitors the HO2S signal and the Short Term fuel trim values of both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating properly, the HO2S signal should go low, and the Short Term fuel trim value should go high. If the PCM detects the HO2S signals for both banks did not respond as expected during the tests, it will set DTC P0410. If only one sensor responds, the PCM sets either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate the bank where the AIR system failed.

 

thanks for the links i will check them out

 

I got this code a few months ago. My internet searches showed that a number of people had success with blowing WD40 and/or carb cleaner through the check valve using compressed air. I tried it and it fixed my problem.

 

Try reading and clearing the DTCS using the internal DIC Code reader

Clear ALL the DTCs and see what comes back and troubleshoot from there:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

as usual the info from you guys was spot on. i sprayed in the hoses and forced through with air and in two days the check engine light went off and we are running smooth again with no codes popping up.

 

I think the WD40 trick is only a temporary fix.

 

my buddy said the same thing. at some point i will have to replace the parts but if the light goes on again i will do it but for now it seems to be fixed.

 

check valves get gummed up with carbon from the exhaust and stick. glad to hear the WD40 trick worked. the passanger side is behind the intake manifold and you probably need to pull the intake manifold off to replace.. the driver side can be done in 1 min flat. I wish they would have made both of them easy to access like that.

S

 

i saw where they are located and i had my fingers crossed that this would work because i know the passenger side one is going to be a PITA

 

The WD40 fix is temporary so get ready to change your air check valves. Secondly, be very careful with spraying WD40 in those air pipes. I am convinced that the WD40 can and will make its way to your front O2 sensors. That is definitely not a good thing!! Just my opinion.

 

I agree with the temp fix. Save your bucks for some new check valves!

I do not believe that the WD is any more detrimental to the sensors than the engine oil that we ingest through the intake manifold from the PCV system.

JMHO

 

Alternatively, having the secondary air system tuned out of the PCM will solve the problem and is much easier to do. It will also get rid of the CEL.