Electrical problems, needs some advice
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
Electrical problems, needs some advice
I have had some codes for awhile and trying to get them fixed. When I first start the car there is no codes. I start driving and in the short distance of a couple houses my dic starts throwing traction control/abs/active handling messages. I also get a low oil message constantly even though I am not low and I have replaced the oil level sensor. I have read some of the threads and performed things such as cleaning all the grounds under the hood. Numbers g103, g102, g104, g101, g107, g105, g106. I also took the cables from the vehicle to the wheel speed sensor off, checked the continuity of the wires and bent the connector back out like showed in some of the threads. I also performed the ignition switch clean like shown. I did that because of a separate problem that turned out to be g105 was very loose and about to fall out. The car is a 01 Zo6. If anyone has had these codes or information on what to do next please chime in.
Some of the codes repeat in different control modules. Codes are as follows:
TCS
C1221 H
C1222 HC
C1225 H
C1226 H
C1232 H
C1242 H
C1248 H
C1283 H
BCM
U1096 H
SDM
U1096 H
LDCM
U1064 H
U1096 H
RDCM
B2265 H
U1064 H
U1096 H
BO-RFA
U1096 H
Some of the codes repeat in different control modules. Codes are as follows:
TCS
C1221 H
C1222 HC
C1225 H
C1226 H
C1232 H
C1242 H
C1248 H
C1283 H
BCM
U1096 H
SDM
U1096 H
LDCM
U1064 H
U1096 H
RDCM
B2265 H
U1064 H
U1096 H
BO-RFA
U1096 H
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You have several issues.. Some of the C codes did not come up in the service manual for the 2001 C5.
The ones that did look power related. Check power and ground. With the ignition ON check the fuses ,,, especially the Hot in ON fuses.
The U series DTCs can be caused by poor connections in the door wiring harness connectors. Pop out the accordion tube s on both doors and pull the two connectors out of the body door A pillar hole.
Disconnect the connectors and look closely at the FEMALE pins. Make sure that they are not spread apart and loose on the male pins. You can bend the tong that contacts the male pin for better connections .
Clear the DTCs and see what happens.
BC
The ones that did look power related. Check power and ground. With the ignition ON check the fuses ,,, especially the Hot in ON fuses.
The U series DTCs can be caused by poor connections in the door wiring harness connectors. Pop out the accordion tube s on both doors and pull the two connectors out of the body door A pillar hole.
Disconnect the connectors and look closely at the FEMALE pins. Make sure that they are not spread apart and loose on the male pins. You can bend the tong that contacts the male pin for better connections .
Clear the DTCs and see what happens.
BC
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Use a DC Volt meter and cneck the voltage on the fuse test points. On top of each fuse are two test points. Measure each one to ground and you should have full battery voltage on each test point.
Remember,,, some of the fuses are powered when the key is in the RUN position.. You can also pull out the fuse and make sure it has good contact and isnt blown, loose, burnt or corroded.
BC
Remember,,, some of the fuses are powered when the key is in the RUN position.. You can also pull out the fuse and make sure it has good contact and isnt blown, loose, burnt or corroded.
BC
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
Ok so I messed with the boots between the doors and had to bend out some of the female connections. I cleared the codes and drove it a couple miles and all the codes stayed gone but c1222. It was showing c1222 H C.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
I took off the wheel and cable from the car to the hub. I had already done this one time but the female connectors were bent back down like they would not make good connection. I bent them back so they would make good connection like pictures from other threads. I then checked the female side that the jumper cable connects to and the female connection looked like it was having the same problem. I bent them back to get good connection. I put it back together, cleared codes and went for a drive. Still got c1222 H C. It is still the only code. I have used a volt meter last week to check jumper cables and they test good. They showed to not have internal breaks and were not crossing some how.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
I pulled all the fuses and relays under the hood and in the passenger footwell. One relay has a darker colored plastic in the corner and it was also on the fuse box. I replaced the relay with a new one. I cleared the codes and drove the vehicle. In the same amount of distance the dash lights came on again. Pulled the codes and they are C1222 H C and C1233. Anyone more things to do or check?
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
Have you verified that the hub is actually putting out a voltage??
Take the wheel off, disconnect the cable and with a volt meter set to AC volts measure the voltage on the pins of the connector as you spin the hub. If I recall it should be about 1/2 to 1 volt. I believe Bill C. would know that number for sure. Hubs seldom fail but they could. The faster you spin the hub the greater the voltage.
If you are not getting voltage measure another hub before you spring for a new hub to insure your measuring correctly.
Take the wheel off, disconnect the cable and with a volt meter set to AC volts measure the voltage on the pins of the connector as you spin the hub. If I recall it should be about 1/2 to 1 volt. I believe Bill C. would know that number for sure. Hubs seldom fail but they could. The faster you spin the hub the greater the voltage.
If you are not getting voltage measure another hub before you spring for a new hub to insure your measuring correctly.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Wheel speed sensor
You have TWO sets of FEMALE/CONNECTORS pins on the front wheel circuits.
One in the jumper harness and one on the female connector on the frame K Menber where the jumper harness connects to. Make sure that both sets of female pins are in good shape.
I use to make the statement that the Wheel Speed Sensors are BULLET PROOF. All they are is a few coils of wire wrapped around a plactic form with a very small circuit board where the wires connect to the pig tail. How can that go bad???
Well, since I made that statement, Ive been proven wrong TWICE.
Both times water has leaked into the sensor and shorted it out. If you have the AC Voltage out of the sensor WHEN YOU SPIN THE TIRE/HUB and THE SENSOR CAP is firmly secured to the wheel hub, is most likely good!
Damaged Female Pins
Front Hub
Rear Hub
SPEED SENSOR REMOVED from Hub:
BC
One in the jumper harness and one on the female connector on the frame K Menber where the jumper harness connects to. Make sure that both sets of female pins are in good shape.
I use to make the statement that the Wheel Speed Sensors are BULLET PROOF. All they are is a few coils of wire wrapped around a plactic form with a very small circuit board where the wires connect to the pig tail. How can that go bad???
Well, since I made that statement, Ive been proven wrong TWICE.
Both times water has leaked into the sensor and shorted it out. If you have the AC Voltage out of the sensor WHEN YOU SPIN THE TIRE/HUB and THE SENSOR CAP is firmly secured to the wheel hub, is most likely good!
Damaged Female Pins
Front Hub
Rear Hub
SPEED SENSOR REMOVED from Hub:
BC
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
I did the volt meter test on the hub and it was giving me voltage. I then plugged the jumper cable in and spun the hub with the volt meter checking at the end that hooks to car and it showed voltage. Then I decided to trace the wire back into the car and found my problem.
Cut out the bad section and put in a new section of wire and no more codes. I appreciate both of your help and telling me where and how to look for stuff. Here is my car with the new wheels on it.
Cut out the bad section and put in a new section of wire and no more codes. I appreciate both of your help and telling me where and how to look for stuff. Here is my car with the new wheels on it.
