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HELP! 2002 Corvette 48,000 miles ruff idle climbs to about 1100 rpms then goes down to almost stall, back up, back down. And not just when it's cold, when its warm too.
No codes no check engine.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance. Frank
HELP! 2002 Corvette 48,000 miles ruff idle climbs to about 1100 rpms then goes down to almost stall, back up, back down. And not just when it's cold, when its warm too.
No codes no check engine.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance. Frank
Thanks for the reply. I'm still banging my head with this thing.
Is the map sensor the one under the manifold? Not sure where it is.
It is just behind the air cleaner assembly, about 2" piece of aluminum. If you clean it make sure and use a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner and not brake cleaner. should only take about 10 minutes, made my ruff idle at times go away.
Its called a MAF Sensor... Mass Air Flow Sensor. You have to remove the air filter assembly and SPRAY it clean. YES, also clean the throttle body/throttle blade.
Also look at the PCV rubber fittings and see is there are any that are rotted.
LS1
LS6/2004
The rubber boot around the PCV where it connects to the manifold can and will rot and leak.
Yeah, MAF that's what I thought he meant. I did check the PCV hoses and they are fine I even changed the PCV just to rule that out.
Will Pull the MAF sensor this week and clean that as suggested.
What are the chances that the MAF is just bad and why am I not getting any codes?
Also could it be a bad fuel pump?
Last edited by goodguys282; Sep 30, 2013 at 02:58 PM.
The MAF can be bad and still have an output. When it doesnt have an output or its so far off that its out of range (according to the PCM) you will get a DTC.
Are you reading the DTCs with in the ignition ON cycle when the problem occurs. In other words, with the engine RUNNING.
UPDATE, I took the throttle body off completely and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner and a tooth brush (not mine) and also the MAF with MAF cleaner. NO CHANGE.
Stopped to see Kelly at PCM Performance here in Mooresville, they specialize in GM Tuning. She suggested that the TPS may be bad. Not sure how to test it but isn't that part of the throttle body? I dont think I can buy that separately.
The TPS is a multi sensor variable resistor. It has two phases and the output from each phase is equal but oposite in voltage. I PHASE A is .5 VDC, PHASE B willl be 4.50 VDC.
Normally when the TPS is bad, it throwa a code and can and will go into reduced engine power.
I guess its possible that it could be bad but, I would make sure that I not getting unmetered air from the ducting between the TB abd MAF.
I had this problem when I did engine mods. Turned out it was a vacuum leak. I had two new injectors that didn't seal properly. The extra air entering the intake would be read by the engine and it would add fuel to compensate, then it would almost die, then back up, and so on. Look for a vacuum leak around the intake and see if that doesn't resolve your issue.
The TPS is a multi sensor variable resistor. It has two phases and the output from each phase is equal but oposite in voltage. I PHASE A is .5 VDC, PHASE B willl be 4.50 VDC.
Normally when the TPS is bad, it throwa a code and can and will go into reduced engine power.
I guess its possible that it could be bad but, I would make sure that I not getting unmetered air from the ducting between the TB abd MAF.
You are too nice. I think this Kelly is fishing for answers. With NO CODES there is nothing to even suggest a tps problem.
Last edited by BigGun; Oct 2, 2013 at 06:37 PM.
Reason: tying to be nice
The TPS is a multi sensor variable resistor. It has two phases and the output from each phase is equal but oposite in voltage. I PHASE A is .5 VDC, PHASE B willl be 4.50 VDC.
Normally when the TPS is bad, it throwa a code and can and will go into reduced engine power.
I guess its possible that it could be bad but, I would make sure that I not getting unmetered air from the ducting between the TB abd MAF.
The ducting between the TB and the MAF, all the vacuum lines and fittings , injector seals, TB seal, manifold tightness, all need to be correct to keep out any air. All the air INTO the engine needs to go through the MAF so that it is properly accounted for and the proper fuel is added to maintain the proper AFR.
If you have a vacuum leak,, it will cause idle issues and effect your efficiency.
A simple way of determining if there is a leak at a joint and or sealing surface is to spray brake parts cleaner on the area. If the idle changes when the joint is sprayed, the combustible fluid is getting past the seal.
You can also use the gas from an UN-LIT Propane torch.