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I installed a star stage 2 clutch with the updated slave cylinder and now my clutch just releases all the way down on the floor. Just bleed the system again yesterday and no change. Is there any difference between my 99 master cylinder and the new ones? Are there any after market parts that will help?
HIthere,
I would suggest that you are not experiencing the same installed height to the slave cylinder as the stock clutch setup.
Basically, this means that instead of the measurement being at GM specs, the clutch assembly now is further away from the slave cylinder, thereby, creating a bad pedal feel.
I would have this measured, as the fulcrum adjustment spoken of above, could be the issue, however, the first few times you stepped on it, the adjustments would start to move.
Besttoyou, c4c5 :chevy
I had the same problem when I installed my Star clutch. I did two things and have solved the problem. First, the pressure plate has an automatic adjusting ring that is supposed to "take up the slack" and move the release point off the floor board. This automatic adjusting mechanism is also employed in the stock unit, and explains why the clutch should never require manual adjustments to make up for disc wear. My automatic adjusting ring didn't- I had to help it along by having someone push the clutch pedal down while I was under the car and "bumped" the adjusting ring into the next notch, using a screw driver.
Second, I installed a McCleod master cylinder with a larger diameter piston. I want to say the stock unit is 1 inch in diameter, while the McCleod is 1 and 1/16 inches in diameter. The larger piston displaces a proportionally larger volume of clutch fluid for any given pedal travel, moving the throwout bearing deeper into the release.
I took both of these actions after extensive telephone discussions with the tech guys at Star. I was told my type of problem was very unusual, but that it did surface in one out of 100 units. I think the odds of this type of problem are higher than they are willing to let on.
Thanks for the help.. Which way did you have to move the adjustment? The same direction as the little spring moves it or opposite of that? where did you get the master cylinder?? Also the tech from spec clutch said the adjustable master cylinder was very hard to bleed properly. How was your experience?
I bumped the adjuster ring in the same direcition as the "little springs" would tend to make it move. I believe it went two incerments to make things right. Be careful not to push it too far, or the throwout bearing will be "loaded" and the clutch will not be fully engaged.
I purchased the McCleod master cyl from MTI in Houston. Bleeding it was not a problem. I used the same method I would use to bleed a brake system- fill with fluid, pump repetively, hold pedal to the floor on the last pump, open the bleeder (at the slave cyl), and close the bleeder before releasing the clutch pedal off the floor. Repeat as necessary, until you are confident there is no more air in the system. Be sure to keep the master cyl filled with hydraulic fluiid, or you'll have to start all over.
BTW, the factory service manual says you have to drop the torque tube closure plate to accomplish bleeding the slave. I'm here to tell you that is not true. I've got an average to large size hand, and using a 10mm box end wrench, I could open and close the slave bleeder without undue difficulty. Save yourself some time and try it before you pull off the closure plate (retained by 23 gazillion bolts!).
Thanks, I have the inspection plate off and the pressure plate only moves .05" with clutch all the way to the floor. My adjusters are exactly where Spec left them (they paint mark them) I think my master cylinder must be bad.