Another ABS question
This weekend I started it up after leaving sit it for a week and I got the dreaded threesome, Service ABS, Service Traction Control, Service Active Handling when I started it.
My previous 2 C-5s never did this, so I have a lack of experience with the issue. Read all the stickies and what not but still have a question.
I've noticed that the previous owner put on some chromed fake z06 wheels, 18x10 square. The fronts are still on 265/40/18 so they have a fair amount of stretch to fit on these wheels, and the rears are 295/40/18.
The battery is fairly weak as it's still the original 2004 battery. I'll be replacing it soon as I know a week battery might contribute to the column lock issue.
Don't think the weak battery would cause it terrible trio, but would running the 265's on a 10 inch wheel up front give issue?

Oh, I'll double check the tire size as well. It's a Mich Pilot Sport, so it isn't an oddball. I'm sure my memory is incorrect.
Last edited by Sox-Fan; Oct 28, 2013 at 10:55 AM.





The very next time that you see anything wrong with your car,,,, IMMEDIATELY " before you turn off the ignition"
Read the DTCs!
The EBTCM can and will clear the current DTCS at each ignition cycle.

Bill

The amount of stretch on those front tires to fit these wheels is a concern. Not only does it look stupid and ricey but it surely can't be good for the sidewall and reduces the outside circumference. Ultimately my concern was that the reduced circumference would cause issues with the EBCM.
The very next time that you see anything wrong with your car,,,, IMMEDIATELY " before you turn off the ignition"
Read the DTCs!
The EBTCM can and will clear the current DTCS at each ignition cycle.

Bill
You said the tires were PS2's. Here are the specs from Tire Rack for that size PS2:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs
Should be OK based on Rim Range specified. Appearances may not be what you like however. That's one of the reasons why I no longer run PS2's.
Unless you carry the laptop and cable for the HP Tuners all the time, it's easier to just pull codes in the DIC. JMHO.
The Pilot Sports were on it. It's a 10k mile car, that's been sitting for years. It has a few things that I need to change up. Apparently a new battery is one of them. Not unexpected.
My laptop is with me at all times, but the HPT cable isn't. On the other hand I do have a bluetooth OBD2 interface that I'll toss into the glove compartment, and Torque app on my phone which is really easy to read. That way I can save off the codes for later reference without trying to read my scribbled notes. So handy!
Thanks guys!
PCM (all H) p0101,p0171, p0174
TCS C1226 H
Radio (all H) u1096 u1016 u1064
Now, this car as a Vararam which I'm not much a fan of, and I found that one of the clamps behind the MAF and before the throttle body was not even finger tight. I'm sure that it was leaking vacuum and might be the cause for the PCM codes. The rest? Bad battery? Bad ground?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I've cleared them all. We'll see which come back. I'll get it on a lift this weekend and get the right front off, then look at the wheel sensor for sure. And the vararam gets bumped up on my do list. Don't like them anyway, won't break my heart to get rid of it sooner instead of later.





"Don't like them anyway, won't break my heart to get rid of it sooner instead of later. "
I love mine.. Put it on the C5 parts section and it will be gone Quickly!
BC
But, to answer, I don't like then, Bill, for the reason a lot of people do like them. They pull air from a very low area, on the leading edge of the car where they are exposed to everything.
And this from 8vette7 didn't fill me with joy "Also common codes with the Vararam." I never once got a code from my Callaway on my last Corvette in the 25k miles I ran it, in any kind of weather.
I'm looking for something trouble free, if possible.
At the same time, if tightening those clamps ( or better yet, replacing them with t-bolts), inspecting the RF speed sensor, and replacing the battery fixes most of the ills, I'll stop right there
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If you have a $10,000 dollar intake system, it MUST seal peoperly to work properly. Any intake system that SIGNIFICANTLY increases HP/TQ, does it by INCREASING the air flow thru the engine by decreasing obstructions to air flow AND enabling the engine to get cold fresh air. The best fresh air is infront of the car.
I love my VARARAM cause it flat works. Mine has NEVER caused a DTC.
BC
I do understand that you don't want air leaking after the MAF, and I do know that any intake be it stock or aftermarket needs to seal.

I did take your statement to mean that the vararam was somehow natively more prone to leakage. If that's not so then I'm less likely to get rid of it.




