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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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Default Another ABS question

I have a new (to me) z06 with 10k miles on it. It's been sitting for a long long time before I bought it. I've been daily driving it for a month, no codes no issues.

This weekend I started it up after leaving sit it for a week and I got the dreaded threesome, Service ABS, Service Traction Control, Service Active Handling when I started it.

My previous 2 C-5s never did this, so I have a lack of experience with the issue. Read all the stickies and what not but still have a question.

I've noticed that the previous owner put on some chromed fake z06 wheels, 18x10 square. The fronts are still on 265/40/18 so they have a fair amount of stretch to fit on these wheels, and the rears are 295/40/18.

The battery is fairly weak as it's still the original 2004 battery. I'll be replacing it soon as I know a week battery might contribute to the column lock issue.

Don't think the weak battery would cause it terrible trio, but would running the 265's on a 10 inch wheel up front give issue?
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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Thanks, I was planning to pull the codes at lunch today but I thought I'd post while I was sipping my coffee. Didn't expect and answer so fast.

Oh, I'll double check the tire size as well. It's a Mich Pilot Sport, so it isn't an oddball. I'm sure my memory is incorrect.

Last edited by Sox-Fan; Oct 28, 2013 at 10:55 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 12:44 PM
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You're 100% correct that I was incorrect, both are 35's, not 40's
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 02:17 PM
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If you have a weak battery,,, you most likely have a whole lot of random DTCs. It would be to your advantage to CLEAR ALL your DTCs and start fresh after your battery change.

The very next time that you see anything wrong with your car,,,, IMMEDIATELY " before you turn off the ignition"
Read the DTCs!

The EBTCM can and will clear the current DTCS at each ignition cycle.



Bill
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Those tire sizes should both fit 10" wide wheels with no issues. The rear to front stagger with those tires is in the safe range for not causing TC issues.

Not certain what your concern about them is....
Thank you for helping

The amount of stretch on those front tires to fit these wheels is a concern. Not only does it look stupid and ricey but it surely can't be good for the sidewall and reduces the outside circumference. Ultimately my concern was that the reduced circumference would cause issues with the EBCM.

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If you have a weak battery,,, you most likely have a whole lot of random DTCs. It would be to your advantage to CLEAR ALL your DTCs and start fresh after your battery change.

The very next time that you see anything wrong with your car,,,, IMMEDIATELY " before you turn off the ignition"
Read the DTCs!

The EBTCM can and will clear the current DTCS at each ignition cycle.



Bill
Thank you Bill. I'll be keeping HPTuners or Torque on hand until I get a bettery. Will HPTuners get EBCM codes on these cars, or should I just stick with the DIC?
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Reduced front tire diameter would not give you EBCM problems. The front tire diameter needs to be smaller than the rear tire diameter by 1/2' to 1 1/2" to avoid TC problems. Based on the corrected tire sizes you posted you have over 3/4 " delta front to rear so your OK.

You said the tires were PS2's. Here are the specs from Tire Rack for that size PS2:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=yes&tab=Specs

Should be OK based on Rim Range specified. Appearances may not be what you like however. That's one of the reasons why I no longer run PS2's.

Unless you carry the laptop and cable for the HP Tuners all the time, it's easier to just pull codes in the DIC. JMHO.

The Pilot Sports were on it. It's a 10k mile car, that's been sitting for years. It has a few things that I need to change up. Apparently a new battery is one of them. Not unexpected.

My laptop is with me at all times, but the HPT cable isn't. On the other hand I do have a bluetooth OBD2 interface that I'll toss into the glove compartment, and Torque app on my phone which is really easy to read. That way I can save off the codes for later reference without trying to read my scribbled notes. So handy!

Thanks guys!
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 05:25 PM
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the codes are:

PCM (all H) p0101,p0171, p0174
TCS C1226 H
Radio (all H) u1096 u1016 u1064

Now, this car as a Vararam which I'm not much a fan of, and I found that one of the clamps behind the MAF and before the throttle body was not even finger tight. I'm sure that it was leaking vacuum and might be the cause for the PCM codes. The rest? Bad battery? Bad ground?
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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You can never go wrong with the DIC. The DIC will show you ALL the codes for your model year car..
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
See above in BLUE.

If you can have the battery load tested that will tell a lot. Usually a bad battery will have a bunch of RDCM and LDCM codes associated with it and you have not listed any.
I'm almost positive that those U codes were grouped under Radio, which wouldn't make a whole heck of a lot of sense to me either. But unless I'm mistaken those are communication loss between BCM and RFA, are they not?

I've cleared them all. We'll see which come back. I'll get it on a lift this weekend and get the right front off, then look at the wheel sensor for sure. And the vararam gets bumped up on my do list. Don't like them anyway, won't break my heart to get rid of it sooner instead of later.
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 08:40 PM
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Why dont you like the vararam??

"Don't like them anyway, won't break my heart to get rid of it sooner instead of later. "

I love mine.. Put it on the C5 parts section and it will be gone Quickly!

BC
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 11:30 PM
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Before I can do that I need a replacement. I see that the price of the Callaway has gone up significantly since the last one I bought. Ouch. Need to look at all of the options. Seems there are more options now than when I traded in my last Corvette in 2008.

But, to answer, I don't like then, Bill, for the reason a lot of people do like them. They pull air from a very low area, on the leading edge of the car where they are exposed to everything.

And this from 8vette7 didn't fill me with joy "Also common codes with the Vararam." I never once got a code from my Callaway on my last Corvette in the 25k miles I ran it, in any kind of weather.

I'm looking for something trouble free, if possible.

At the same time, if tightening those clamps ( or better yet, replacing them with t-bolts), inspecting the RF speed sensor, and replacing the battery fixes most of the ills, I'll stop right there .
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 12:03 AM
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ANY,,,,,,,,, air intake system be it OEM or aftermarket, MUST be installed properly and properly sealed. The ducting between the TB and MAF must be air tight.

If you have a $10,000 dollar intake system, it MUST seal peoperly to work properly. Any intake system that SIGNIFICANTLY increases HP/TQ, does it by INCREASING the air flow thru the engine by decreasing obstructions to air flow AND enabling the engine to get cold fresh air. The best fresh air is infront of the car.

I love my VARARAM cause it flat works. Mine has NEVER caused a DTC.

BC
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 09:21 AM
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Well, don't forget, 10k miles on a car that is still a 2004. Lots of sitting.

I do understand that you don't want air leaking after the MAF, and I do know that any intake be it stock or aftermarket needs to seal.

I did take your statement to mean that the vararam was somehow natively more prone to leakage. If that's not so then I'm less likely to get rid of it.
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