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Well one of the abs lines that go into pump is cross threaded. I had changed out pumps and went to hook up the line and its leaking out everywhere. I need to re tap the pump it but don't know the thread/pitch size. Was wondering if someone could help me out. It's one of the ones that are on top like 4 of them.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Take the old BPMV to autozone and they have a selection of brass flare nuts that you can screw into a non damaged hole.
If you dont ave the old one, just purchase a bunce close to the correct size and figure out which one fits.. Return the ones that dont fit.
OP: just remember, steel tubes such as brake lines that use flare nuts (either SAE or bubble flare) have straight threads (tube-threads), not tapered threads like pipe threads.
If the flares are bubble-flare type, which I think they are, they will be Metric.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Chicago1
Thanks gents Ill report back tommorow
Hope it works out for ya. That's got to be a major PITA.
If it turns out you can't get the correct sized thread-chaser or a blind-hole tap maybe, if you can at least determine the correct Metric size, you may be able to fashion your own thread chaser of sorts. Using a Dremel, cut four lengthwise slots in the threads of a bolt. Gotta be extra sure you start it straight though. I think a lot's going to depend on how far up inside the damaged threads go.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Chicago1
Hopefully the nut isn't jacked then I will have to get a new line bent and reroute it
If that's the case, maybe give a quick call to Marc at Vettenuts. I'm sure he has all those lines and you can get one easy. As you know tube bending is difficult enough, never mind re-creating the correctly shaped bubble-flare.
The way i would do it is to splice the line so you dont have to remove the tunnel plate. Its simple and its done to the rear lines above the diff from GM.
The reason both brake pipes going to the rear show to be "item 43" is because GM does not provide pre-bent brake tubing as a replacement part. Both tubes in the illustration are the same size and they will sell bulk un-bent tubing of the correct size to anyone wanting to fab up their own. They DO however, show a part number for the individual fittings on each end. It is: 11561640 in this case.
Not until Monday I didn't have the right tap but the pics you guys posted are awesome if I have to cut into it. Ill let you know when I get over there how it goes. The threads on the flared nut look fine it's the pump itself. No bueno
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Chicago1
Not until Monday I didn't have the right tap but the pics you guys posted are awesome if I have to cut into it. Ill let you know when I get over there how it goes. The threads on the flared nut look fine it's the pump itself. No bueno
Yeah, the nuts are steel, but the pump body is aluminum.
Btw, the letters all along the length of the long brake lines relate to the retainers that are used to secure them. They are shown at the bottom of the picture.