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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:29 PM
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Default abs pump module thread/pitch size..Resolved M10x1.0..

Well one of the abs lines that go into pump is cross threaded. I had changed out pumps and went to hook up the line and its leaking out everywhere. I need to re tap the pump it but don't know the thread/pitch size. Was wondering if someone could help me out. It's one of the ones that are on top like 4 of them.

Last edited by Chicago1; Nov 6, 2013 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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Take the old BPMV to autozone and they have a selection of brass flare nuts that you can screw into a non damaged hole.

If you dont ave the old one, just purchase a bunce close to the correct size and figure out which one fits.. Return the ones that dont fit.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Take the old BPMV to autozone and they have a selection of brass flare nuts that you can screw into a non damaged hole.

If you dont ave the old one, just purchase a bunce close to the correct size and figure out which one fits.. Return the ones that dont fit.


OP: just remember, steel tubes such as brake lines that use flare nuts (either SAE or bubble flare) have straight threads (tube-threads), not tapered threads like pipe threads.
If the flares are bubble-flare type, which I think they are, they will be Metric.

HTH
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 10:13 PM
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Thanks gents Ill report back tommorow
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Thanks gents Ill report back tommorow
Hope it works out for ya. That's got to be a major PITA.

If it turns out you can't get the correct sized thread-chaser or a blind-hole tap maybe, if you can at least determine the correct Metric size, you may be able to fashion your own thread chaser of sorts. Using a Dremel, cut four lengthwise slots in the threads of a bolt. Gotta be extra sure you start it straight though. I think a lot's going to depend on how far up inside the damaged threads go.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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Hopefully the nut isn't jacked then I will have to get a new line bent and reroute it
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Hopefully the nut isn't jacked then I will have to get a new line bent and reroute it
If that's the case, maybe give a quick call to Marc at Vettenuts. I'm sure he has all those lines and you can get one easy. As you know tube bending is difficult enough, never mind re-creating the correctly shaped bubble-flare.

Just a thought.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 11:53 PM
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Some stuff to know,, The flare nut on the line DOES NOT seal anything. It forces the flare on the line up against the nipple inside the hole.

Use a jewelers file and dress the threads on the but on the brake line

If you move the nut back on the line and adjust/bend the line so that it goes into the hole STRAIGHT,, the flare gland nut will start a LOT easier.

If you cant get the store bought flare nut to start in the BPMV by hand,, you better be working on the threads inside the hole!!!!!

Bill
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 08:13 AM
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We have every line in stock for your C5's. Let me know if i can be of any help.

Marc
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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 08:30 AM
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Great stuff guys thanks so much!!!

Originally Posted by Marc@Vettenuts.net
We have every line in stock for your C5's. Let me know if i can be of any help.

Marc
Marc shoot me a pm for that line on cost please to 87124

upper right that says m02 or something..

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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 04:40 AM
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Where does it go? Caliper, MC?
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc@Vettenuts.net
Where does it go? Caliper, MC?
Good question let me check later today car is at a friends now
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 11:03 AM
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Look on the BPMV block Each port is labled RR, LR RF, LF ect......
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 11:30 AM
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Marc,so it's says LR on it. I assume that's to the caliper correct if someone can confirm that?
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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CORRECT!!

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You have to remove the exhaust and Tunnel Plate to do that job correctly!
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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The way i would do it is to splice the line so you dont have to remove the tunnel plate. Its simple and its done to the rear lines above the diff from GM.
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 06:05 PM
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Item #46 in this illustration is the tube nut in question. Apparently a 10 mm x 1.0 is the size and pitch.

NUT-INV FLD TUBE RR BRK PIPE,M10X1.0X10.1 THD,17.1 TL,FOR 4.75 OD TUBE,LCS,GMW47,(ALL MODELS/ALL YEARS)



The reason both brake pipes going to the rear show to be "item 43" is because GM does not provide pre-bent brake tubing as a replacement part. Both tubes in the illustration are the same size and they will sell bulk un-bent tubing of the correct size to anyone wanting to fab up their own. They DO however, show a part number for the individual fittings on each end. It is: 11561640 in this case.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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Making any progress yet?

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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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Not until Monday I didn't have the right tap but the pics you guys posted are awesome if I have to cut into it. Ill let you know when I get over there how it goes. The threads on the flared nut look fine it's the pump itself. No bueno
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Not until Monday I didn't have the right tap but the pics you guys posted are awesome if I have to cut into it. Ill let you know when I get over there how it goes. The threads on the flared nut look fine it's the pump itself. No bueno
Yeah, the nuts are steel, but the pump body is aluminum.

Btw, the letters all along the length of the long brake lines relate to the retainers that are used to secure them. They are shown at the bottom of the picture.
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