Fuel Gauge Issue, no not that one....


From your pictures it looks like you mistakenly attached the new sender to the "hat" and were going to insert it as an assembly, and not hanging loose while you worked the pump-body in the hole first.

Nice job. Replacing the right side pump/sender unit is even easier since it's not nearly as large an assembly.



Here again, you can disconnect the output line (there's only two on the passenger side as opposed to three on the driver's side) and quickly put your finger over the nipple to stop fuel flow for a moment and then quickly stick a hose over the nipple to let it drain into a container, it will minimize fuel spillage.
From your pictures it looks like you mistakenly attached the new sender to the "hat" and were going to insert it as an assembly, and not hanging loose while you worked the pump-body in the hole first.

Nice job. Replacing the right side pump/sender unit is even easier since it's not nearly as large an assembly.
. I was putting the wheel back on and when I grabbed the last 2 lug nuts I was like wtf is this...dohhhhh.
Last edited by Chicago1; Dec 4, 2013 at 11:53 PM.


. I was putting the wheel back on and when I grabbed the last 2 lug nuts I was like wtf is this...dohhhhh.

Here again, you can disconnect the output line (there's only two on the passenger side as opposed to three on the driver's side) and quickly put your finger over the nipple to stop fuel flow for a moment and then quickly stick a hose over the nipple to let it drain into a container, it will minimize fuel spillage.
so figured since the trans and rear is out it would be the best time to do this while its at rpm transmissions but on the down side i cant drive it til its almost empty


so figured since the trans and rear is out it would be the best time to do this while its at rpm transmissions but on the down side i cant drive it til its almost empty 
Man! With your drive-train out, you'll have a lot's more working room under there to take care of any fuel tank work.
Man! With you drive-train out, you'll have a lot's more working room under there to take care of any fuel tank work.
when i drain the passenger tank which is part number ACDelco MU1218 will the gas from the driver side stay in the tank or will that come out as well? just trying to figure out how many gas cans i will need


when i drain the passenger tank which is part number ACDelco MU1218 will the gas from the driver side stay in the tank or will that come out as well? just trying to figure out how many gas cans i will need

If you're gravity-draining, just be ready with a hose and container nearby, and quickly jam that drain hose (any 3/8" rubber fuel line hose will do) onto the nipple. Loosen the fuel filler cap too.
Btw, the replacement senders in the right tank have an "improved sender card" according to ACD.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
If you're gravity-draining, just be ready with a hose and container nearby, and quickly jam that drain hose (any 3/8" rubber fuel line hose will do) onto the nipple. Loosen the fuel filler cap too.
Btw, the replacement senders in the right tank have an "improved sender card" according to ACD.




You've heard the old saying: "Necessity is the Mother of invention"? Well, that experience started me on my knowledge-gathering mission about my fuel system design and function.



Btw, depending on the year model of your car, the new right side unit will come with two (what I'll call) metal "screens", instead of having the nylon "sock". You can see them in the ACDelco pic I posted earlier. I'm not sure what year the break-point was but I think the later C5s had the metal screens, or at least starting with the Z06s in '01. Point being, if you have the sock, don't be concerned because the replacement unit has two small, round, metal screens. It works just fine.


MUCH stronger unit and bolts right up.
Although there are several brands you can buy, I had good luck with the Bosch starter.
The part number for the new (not rebuilt) Bosch is SR8581N and the extra long bolt you'll need is GM part number 11610787.
I would really recommend using the GM bolt on this and not a generic hardware store bolt, since the actual starter bolts have a knurled section on the shank and the flange-style head as well just like the other side.

Here's a better pic:
Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Dec 5, 2013 at 01:29 AM.
Btw, depending on the year model of your car, the new right side unit will come with two (what I'll call) metal "screens", instead of having the nylon "sock". You can see them in the ACDelco pic I posted earlier. I'm not sure what year the break-point was but I think the later C5s had the metal screens, or at least starting with the Z06s in '01. Point being, if you have the sock, don't be concerned because the replacement unit has two small, round, metal screens. It works just fine.


There's several different sources for the Bosch starter, but the prices will range from $112.99 (at rock auto) to as high as $180-200 at other stores (Summit/autoplicity/123 auto parts, etc, are all sources)
It's widely available though, even on ebay for around $110 w/free shipping from one source so, not hard to find at all. As I mentioned, this is a new starter, not reman. Bosch starter part numbers with an "N" suffix are new, and if the suffix is an "X" it's a reman unit. Nothing wrong with reman, as long as it's from a reputable company, but for so little more money I MUCH prefer new, and save the core charge/return hassle.
As I said, it's a (LS engine) truck starter used on Silverados/Yukons/Cadillac Escalades, etc, but its a plug-n-play. No adapters or anything else.
Over the last few years it was found that these truck design starters fit the Corvette/F-body LS engines and they are more robust in design. So many people were retro-fitting them, that a couple manufacturers started including the extra (long) bolt needed.
Even Bill Curlee, here in CF recommends using this design (two long bolts) as well. He experienced a broken block a few years ago, and after that uses nothing BUT this design now.
Btw, you'll notice the extra bolt (of the correct design) is included. I forgot about that. Some brands do this, others do not.

nevermind found it lol so will i have to order a long bolt also?
Last edited by Gitusum; Dec 5, 2013 at 09:46 PM.


i have yet to drain the gas and install the new pump but will most likely this weekend and i hope this fixes the problem because there were no codes hopefully this is the issue 
Rick






