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Fuel Gauge Issue, no not that one....

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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Just drive it to it's about 1/8 is left and put a bucket under. Should take you maybe 45mins or so to change out. It's not hard...
Attaboy!

From your pictures it looks like you mistakenly attached the new sender to the "hat" and were going to insert it as an assembly, and not hanging loose while you worked the pump-body in the hole first.

Nice job. Replacing the right side pump/sender unit is even easier since it's not nearly as large an assembly.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
my gas gauge goes to empty once it gets to about 5/8 of a tank from full so i am assuming its the passenger side thats bad and if thats the case isnt the passenger side staying full of gas? and if so i have a full tank on that tank to try and drop
From what you're saying I'd say you hit the nail on the head.

Here again, you can disconnect the output line (there's only two on the passenger side as opposed to three on the driver's side) and quickly put your finger over the nipple to stop fuel flow for a moment and then quickly stick a hose over the nipple to let it drain into a container, it will minimize fuel spillage.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Attaboy!

From your pictures it looks like you mistakenly attached the new sender to the "hat" and were going to insert it as an assembly, and not hanging loose while you worked the pump-body in the hole first.

Nice job. Replacing the right side pump/sender unit is even easier since it's not nearly as large an assembly.
Thanks, I did a AEM pump install for my SC build I am doing. yeah I did forget at first but caught it before I mangled it up. I had to take it out again because I forgot to put that big sock/filter on it. . I was putting the wheel back on and when I grabbed the last 2 lug nuts I was like wtf is this...dohhhhh.

Last edited by Chicago1; Dec 4, 2013 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Thanks, I did a AEM pump install for my SC build I am doing. yeah I did forget at first but caught it before I mangled it up. I had to take it out again because I forgot to put that big sock/filter on it. . I was putting the wheel back on and when I grabbed the last 2 lug nuts I was like wtf is this...dohhhhh.
Hey, don't feel bad. We've ALL done something like that in the past.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:00 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
From what you're saying I'd say you hit the nail on the head.

Here again, you can disconnect the output line (there's only two on the passenger side as opposed to three on the driver's side) and quickly put your finger over the nipple to stop fuel flow for a moment and then quickly stick a hose over the nipple to let it drain into a container, it will minimize fuel spillage.
using that racetronix harness you posted or no? oh and by the way my transmission took a crap so its out of the car along with the rear and i had just filled the car completely full when it happened pulling out of the gas station so figured since the trans and rear is out it would be the best time to do this while its at rpm transmissions but on the down side i cant drive it til its almost empty
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:06 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
using that racetronix harness you posted or no? oh and by the way my transmission took a crap so its out of the car along with the rear and i had just filled the car completely full when it happened pulling out of the gas station so figured since the trans and rear is out it would be the best time to do this while its at rpm transmissions but on the down side i cant drive it til its almost empty
Yes, you can use the Racetronix tank drain kit to speed things up a lot, but it's not absolutely necessary. You can gravity drain like Chicago did. If you DO use the Racetronix unit, you can run the red wire (they give you plenty) up directly to the battery for power.

Man! With your drive-train out, you'll have a lot's more working room under there to take care of any fuel tank work.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Yes, you can use the Racetronix tank drain kit to speed things up a lot, but it's not absolutely necessary. You can run the red wire (they give you plenty) up directly to the battery for power.

Man! With you drive-train out, you'll have a lot's more working room under there to take care of any fuel tank work.
yea i have this problem and also my starter is acting up so thats getting replaced while its down also. so last question ....

when i drain the passenger tank which is part number ACDelco MU1218 will the gas from the driver side stay in the tank or will that come out as well? just trying to figure out how many gas cans i will need
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
yea i have this problem and also my starter is acting up so thats getting replaced while its down also. so last question ....

when i drain the passenger tank which is part number ACDelco MU1218 will the gas from the driver side stay in the tank or will that come out as well? just trying to figure out how many gas cans i will need
Yes, the driver's tank will stay put. The hose (fuel pipe) coming from the driver's tank, going to the right tank (it actually "Ys" off), goes UPWARD first and then crosses over to the right tank and down to the nipple on the right tank.
If you're gravity-draining, just be ready with a hose and container nearby, and quickly jam that drain hose (any 3/8" rubber fuel line hose will do) onto the nipple. Loosen the fuel filler cap too.

Btw, the replacement senders in the right tank have an "improved sender card" according to ACD.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:30 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Yes, the driver's tank will stay put. The hose (fuel pipe) coming from the driver's tank, going to the right tank (it actually "Ys" off), goes UPWARD first and then crosses over to the right tank and down to the nipple on the right tank.
If you're gravity-draining, just be ready with a hose and container nearby, and quickly jam that drain hose (any 3/8" rubber fuel line hose will do) onto the nipple. Loosen the fuel filler cap too.

Btw, the replacement senders in the right tank have an "improved sender card" according to ACD.
awesome i just didnt know if i could use the racetronix to pump out the passenger side when apparently its inop and thanx for all your help i am going to order the pump and the racetronix kit and get it done in a week or so from now i hope!!! i will keep ya posted on how well it does lol
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:34 AM
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Take your time putting the new sending unit in. Do what I did and take pics because getting it in is the hardest part. You will start getting hung up on that brown fuel line and filter sock. Those 2 wires on the sending unit are just soldered on so they can break easy. If you plan on upgrading anytime soon now is a good time to upgrade your FP..I reused my old gasket twice now and haven't had any leaks. If you get the gasket and bolts it will run you about 30-45 bucks just fyi.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:41 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Take your time putting the new sending unit in. Do what I did and take pics because getting it in is the hardest part. You will start getting hung up on that brown fuel line and filter sock. Those 2 wires on the sending unit are just soldered on so they can break easy. If you plan on upgrading anytime soon now is a good time to upgrade your FP..I reused my old gasket twice now and haven't had any leaks. If you get the gasket and bolts it will run you about 30-45 bucks just fyi.
i already have the ecs fuel system on the drivers side as well as a boost a pump running 826rwhp ..... that side up to the front is taken care of its just this whole tank dropping to empty at 5/8 of a tank blows!!! especially since i dont know if i will run out when it happens or not so i rather not chance it and since im at the point of being able to do it while the car is down then i figure gitter done!!!
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
i already have the ecs fuel system on the drivers side as well as a boost a pump running 826rwhp ..... that side up to the front is taken care of its just this whole tank dropping to empty at 5/8 of a tank blows!!! especially since i dont know if i will run out when it happens or not so i rather not chance it and since im at the point of being able to do it while the car is down then i figure gitter done!!!
I hear ya. I "ran out" of gas a couple years back because of this crap, and didn't even realize it at the time. I was on a road trip and thought the (electric) fuel pump failed. Little did I realize at the time, if I had only asked the wrecker for a couple gallons of gas, I could have been going again, but nooooo...........

You've heard the old saying: "Necessity is the Mother of invention"? Well, that experience started me on my knowledge-gathering mission about my fuel system design and function.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:11 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
i already have the ecs fuel system on the drivers side as well as a boost a pump running 826rwhp ..... that side up to the front is taken care of its just this whole tank dropping to empty at 5/8 of a tank blows!!! especially since i dont know if i will run out when it happens or not so i rather not chance it and since im at the point of being able to do it while the car is down then i figure gitter done!!!
Actually it sounds more like you have a clogged/inop siphon jet pump in your right tank, and in all liklihood your sender is fine. Problem is, in the right side, you have to get the whole sender/pump assembly. Thank God it's a LOT cheaper than the left side assembly.

Btw, depending on the year model of your car, the new right side unit will come with two (what I'll call) metal "screens", instead of having the nylon "sock". You can see them in the ACDelco pic I posted earlier. I'm not sure what year the break-point was but I think the later C5s had the metal screens, or at least starting with the Z06s in '01. Point being, if you have the sock, don't be concerned because the replacement unit has two small, round, metal screens. It works just fine.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:26 AM
  #34  
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Oh hey, Gitusum, before I forget, when you go to replace your starter I would really recommend the GM truck starter that came on the LS engines. It uses two long bolts instead of one long/one short.
MUCH stronger unit and bolts right up.

Although there are several brands you can buy, I had good luck with the Bosch starter.

The part number for the new (not rebuilt) Bosch is SR8581N and the extra long bolt you'll need is GM part number 11610787.

I would really recommend using the GM bolt on this and not a generic hardware store bolt, since the actual starter bolts have a knurled section on the shank and the flange-style head as well just like the other side.



Here's a better pic:

Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Dec 5, 2013 at 01:29 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Actually it sounds more like you have a clogged/inop siphon jet pump in your right tank, and in all liklihood your sender is fine. Problem is, in the right side, you have to get the whole sender/pump assembly. Thank God it's a LOT cheaper than the left side assembly.

Btw, depending on the year model of your car, the new right side unit will come with two (what I'll call) metal "screens", instead of having the nylon "sock". You can see them in the ACDelco pic I posted earlier. I'm not sure what year the break-point was but I think the later C5s had the metal screens, or at least starting with the Z06s in '01. Point being, if you have the sock, don't be concerned because the replacement unit has two small, round, metal screens. It works just fine.
how will i know if its just clogged? the passenger side unit cost i believe $260 and how much is the bosch starter?
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
how will i know if its just clogged? the passenger side unit cost i believe $260......
Well, if it (RH siphon jet pump) isn't transferring fuel (to LH tank), it's a pretty good sign it's clogged/damaged/broken, etc. My guess it would be clogged as it's a VERY simple design, with no moving parts as such. It contains a very small orifice through which the pressurized fuel from the left tank passes. Debris or trash of some sort that may have been pumped over there by the electric pump in the left tank (since the LH pump sends pressurized fuel to the right tank during normal operation in order for the RH pump to operate), OR it could be clogged/plugged from debris that originated in the RH tank itself. Either way, the fuel is not being sent on back to the LH tank as it should be. You can disassemble it to try a repair/cleaning of the orifice, but personally I wouldn't bother due mainly to the time/effort involved, plus with the new unit from ACD, you getting a new sending unit as well, so........

Originally Posted by Gitusum
.......and how much is the bosch starter?


There's several different sources for the Bosch starter, but the prices will range from $112.99 (at rock auto) to as high as $180-200 at other stores (Summit/autoplicity/123 auto parts, etc, are all sources)
It's widely available though, even on ebay for around $110 w/free shipping from one source so, not hard to find at all. As I mentioned, this is a new starter, not reman. Bosch starter part numbers with an "N" suffix are new, and if the suffix is an "X" it's a reman unit. Nothing wrong with reman, as long as it's from a reputable company, but for so little more money I MUCH prefer new, and save the core charge/return hassle.

As I said, it's a (LS engine) truck starter used on Silverados/Yukons/Cadillac Escalades, etc, but its a plug-n-play. No adapters or anything else.
Over the last few years it was found that these truck design starters fit the Corvette/F-body LS engines and they are more robust in design. So many people were retro-fitting them, that a couple manufacturers started including the extra (long) bolt needed.
Even Bill Curlee, here in CF recommends using this design (two long bolts) as well. He experienced a broken block a few years ago, and after that uses nothing BUT this design now.

Btw, you'll notice the extra bolt (of the correct design) is included. I forgot about that. Some brands do this, others do not.

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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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Gitusum:

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To Fuel Gauge Issue, no not that one....

Old Dec 5, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #38  
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didnt see any bosch starters on ebay that were new under corvette especially for $110

nevermind found it lol so will i have to order a long bolt also?

Last edited by Gitusum; Dec 5, 2013 at 09:46 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Gitusum
didnt see any bosch starters on ebay that were new under corvette especially for $110
Use search term: "Bosch SR8581N" in Ebay Motors section; 12 hits.

Check your PMs too.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 07:40 AM
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so i have purchased a stater and also purchased the racetronix drain kit as well as a new pump assembly for the passenger side. i also pulled my codes and there were no codes involving the fuel at all but as i said it gets to about half a tank then goes to empty i have yet to drain the gas and install the new pump but will most likely this weekend and i hope this fixes the problem because there were no codes hopefully this is the issue

Rick
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