I ran into a number of issues installing LG Longtubes on my 02 Z06 today. Sheared a header bolt off (front most bolt on the passenger side). Going to have to get that taken care of since I had no luck extracting it. But the drivers side front O2 sensor was in a position that I absolutely could not get one in. I called LG, and they were helpful and ready to send a new header out today, but we decided to hold off and see if I can have a local place put one in on the other side. But I just wanted to see if anyone else ran into this.





Drivers side was pointed directly at the passenger side.

For whatever reason, LG accidentally sent a 2nd set of headers after the first, so he suggested I look at the drivers side on those to see if I can use it instead. It looked to be in the exact same spot. Not sure whats up. Guess somebody was hung over when they came to work and made this batch, hahaha.

But, like I said, LG was ready and willing to make it right. The rep was going to go out and put a header on a jig to make sure it was good then send it, but like I said, I wanted to see if a local place could help me out. Props to LG for customer service, but bummer I'm having these problems.

I was borrowing my buddies garage, so I went ahead and disconnected the rear O2's, and put the drivers side in the rear spot (I know it needs to be up front to get good readings) and the passenger side is where it needs to be. I am going to take the car tomorrow to see if I can have the O2 taken care of, and as for the header bolt, I'm going to see what I can do to extract it when I get a chance. I'll just take it easy on the car and luckily it isn't my DD, so I can park it for the time being.

TL;DR
I installed headers and the drivers side O2 sensor was pointed directly at the passenger side preventing me from putting it in. LG said it wasn't normal. Anyone else run into this?


Initial startup.

 

I've installed dozens of LG Headers, the only time I had any issues was with their, lower end, Street Series headers. The only issue was having to stretch the pipes to get them to slip into each other and the fit wasn't perfect.

Other than that I have not had any real issues with their Pro or Super Pro series. I am sure LG will take care of you, they always do, they have some of the best people in the business.

I'd recommend waiting to get a correct set of headers from LG. I know it's a pain to remove and install them more than once, but doing it right will pay off.

If you are not running cats, you can use the rear 02 sensor positions for the primary sensors if you tune the switching points of the sensors to reflect their new positions.

As far as the broken header bolt goes, you're going to need to remove that header any how. Hopefully the bolt broke at the header and not the head, so you can put vise grips on it and twist it out. Otherwise you'll be drilling into the broken bolt and hopefully an easy out will get it out. Be super careful because the head is aluminum, you can do some damage real fast.

 

I have installed them as well. Looks like the weld is not correct. Might be something amiss with the jig and a number of sets got welded incorrectly. I think you just need to work with LG. Perhaps if the new one that you received is the same, you can shoot a photo and send to LG so they can pre-inspect the next one prior to shipping to you. That will give them an idea what to look for.

 

The rep said he'd throw one on the Jig to make sure it was correctly placed. I'm really not in a rush now with the holidays coming up. Nothing I can do now for a while. As for the header bolt, any advice? I may try and get ahold of an angle drill and see if I can get a pilot hole going. There isn't enough sticking out to get a nut on.

 

Voice of experience: if the bolt is siezed enough to snap while trying to remove it, it will be very difficult (if not impossible...) to remove with an EZ out. The straighter and closest to center you can dill into the broken part, the better. Good luck!

 

If there is a bit of the bolt sticking out a good welder could probably weld a nut on there and then it could be removed.

 

Hopefully he got lucky and the bolt snapped from being over torqued.

Use a center punch dead center to get your pilot started.

You have a few options:

1.) Use a small punch or chisel and a hammer and try to hit the broken bolt to the left and loosen it out.

2.) Use an easy out; Drill a hole through the center, drive the easy out through the center and pray it grabs a hold of it.

3.) Weld a nut or rod to the broken bolt for leverage.

4.) Drill the bolt out (carefully!), tap the threads to make sure they are healthy. If the threads are not healthy after tapping, you'll have to heli-coil it.

You can probably try the first option yourself. If you are not comfortable trying the the other options I'd recommend seeking someone who is experienced.

Removing the head will aid the extraction, but the front passenger side bolt is probably the easiest to access in the car.

 

If it were me..... I would get a good work light, a good sharp metal punch and purchase some new drill bits.

Center Punch a set hole in the center of the bolt. Start drilling with a small drill bit and drill straight thru the bolt.

Step up the drill bit to the next size and work up to a point that you can get the most of an easy out into the bolt without damaging the head threads.

Unless you used the wrong length bolt, it should NOT be bottomed out in the blind hole. So, unless you buggered up the threads, there should be little or no tension on the broken bolt. It should spin out pretty easy.

I would almost bet you could score the top of the bolt with a dremmel tool cutting wheel and remove it with a screw driver,,, BUT,,, if you do that it makes it a little more difficult to properly spot punch for a drill bit starter spot if the bolt is actually difficuly to get out.

Another aid in removing the bolt is, get your hole drilled and ready to use the easy out. Obtain a propane torch OR an electric wagner paint stripper heat gun and HEAT up the head "AROUND" the broken bolt to about 150 deg. That will expand the aluminum around the bolt hole and make the bolt easier to extract.

If you are sure that you have the correct length bolt installed, and it is not bottomed out in the bolt hole, drilling completely through the bolt will allow you to get some PB Blaster or WD-40 in and behind the bolt and that will aid in removal. When you installed the bolt, did you thread it in by hand or did you need to muscle it in with a wrench/socket??????????????

Good Luck Brother!

Bill

 

First thing I always try is a sharp tool like an ice pick and put it near the outside of the thread and tap with a hammer to turn it. Hope this makes sense. Did this on my daughters differential in her Jeep on the pinion shaft bolt and it backed right out. Worth a try prior to the next step.

 

When it broke, it was after id pulled the the stock manifold and was installing the headers. I used the stock bolt. Threads must have gotten messed up somehow (hangin the headers mounting them I assume). Itried several bolts and all acted the same (threading in easy for about halfway then really tight. I like a dummy muscled it in and it broke. I'm sure the torque snapped it.

I stopped by two shops today to look into having the bolt extracted. one shop disnt want to mess with it, the ither said the head would have to come off.

I bought a 90 degree drill today, but I dont see it getting into the space to get a good straight hole tapped. For everyone suggesting tapping it, can it be done with the head in?

 

if all your attempts fail with the head still on you'll have to remove the head and find someone local with an EDM machine to exstact it for you . it will be a breeze . Then run a bottom tap to clean the threads up ...xzo

 

Sounds like it was cross threaded. You may need to pull the head to fix this correctly. You can try the drill but if it is not centered I would be careful proceeding too far.

 

I snapped a thread chaser in the head during my header install. I ended up getting it out by MIG welding a nut onto it and pulling it out.

My suggestion. Get yourself a few nuts that are the next closest size up. Not zinc plated (silver), but plain or black oxide if available, since they weld nicer. Center the nut over the remains of the broken bolt, hold the nut with a pliers, and stick the tip of the MIG gun in the center of the nut. Weld to the broken bolt first, and let the puddle fill up the nut. Let it cool, but not completely. When its not glowing but still plenty hot, spray it with some penetrating oil. Now get a regular wrench on there, and try to rock it back and forth. Once you get some movement, try to remove it. If the nut just snaps off the stud, you welded in the nut and not on the stud. Try again. Eventually you will get a good weld and be able to remove the stud. At this point the threads are probably pretty ugly. Either tap them to clean them up or use a helicoil or timesert on that hole.

Don't worry about spatter on the head, it wont stick and can be cleaned up with some scotchbrite. You may want to put a damp cotton rag down in the exhaust port to keep stuff from going down in on top of valve, but make sure to not catch the rag on fire.

 

Well, the 90 degree drill was still too big to get the right angle to even think of drilling a pilot hole for an extractor. Not sure what my next step is going to be. My roommate wants to try welding a nut on, but I'm skeptical of it. With there being little to no threads (And by little, in the pic, there is maaaaybe one thread at most, and thats only 1/3rd the way around the nut. So if there is any bite, I imagine it'd be enough to keep the nut centered at best.) If I was to go that route, I'd still have to go back and remove the headers on the passenger side, and I'm not sure whether I can do that right now (only have a car port to work under).

It's a bummer, and I have almost too much pride to take anything to a shop, because I know with the time and right tools, I could probably take care of this, but I don't have either at the moment, which sucks.

What I'm thinking about doing is since I planned on having a cam installed at Horsepower Addicts this winter (they have a great special I'm sure everyone has seen), I called and talked to them and asked if it would be a big deal to pull the head off while they're in there and take care of it. They said no problem, we talked ballpark price and I was happy with it.

So with that being said, I'm probably going to end up putting the car up for the winter. Boooooo. I'll get it out to take it there, but in the mean time, I have a lot going on and I really won't have much time to be wrenching. (I'm in the military and ranking up, so I have a lot of schooling and classes and studying to do over the next three months that will take up a lot of time).

I'm bummed I don't think I'll get to enjoy the car with just the headers, but it is what it is. If I get froggy, I may try and pull the bolt, but I just don't think I'm going to have the work space and time. I really appreciate the help so far.

 

Slot the head of the stud with a dremmel tool and try a flat blade screw driver. I bet ya it will come out easy


BC

 

After my experience with XSPower I would never try to modify/correct myself or have a local shop do it, period. If it is not right let LG send you a new set. they are a solid company and they will make it right without any arguments and will be able to verify if something happened with the Jig. you could in fact save them a lot of money by allowing it to be checked. In the picture it is defiantly not right and you will not get one in facing the other tube, my concern would be the one you did get in from the vibration/twisting under power braking off.

For the bolt, TAKE YOUR TIME! think it out look at it every time you do something to verify it is what you are looking to do.

 

This ^^^