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Does anyone have a cheat sheat for changing the front and rear pads or is that obvious that once I whip the wheels off I'm going to be embarassed that I asked? :)
It is pretty self explainitory. Once you remove the wheels you will see the small bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. They are on a sliding pin that allows the caliper to "float". Just make sure you have new bolts or some locktite for when you re-assemble. If you just undo the top bolt you can swing the caliper down and remove the pads easily. Use the new bolt, or some locktite on the old bolt and re-torque to 23 lb-ft.
Oh, and one more thing.... I just want to tell you good luck, were all counting on you!
Great, thanks a bunch! You mentioned that the caliper is floating, do the pistons need pushing into the calipers before fitting the new pads? Finally, I don't have new bolts so it's time for our friend Mr Loctite!
...do the pistons need pushing into the calipers before fitting the new pads?
Yes, I forgot to mention that. It is recommended that you open the bleed screw and push the pistons back into the caliper with it open so you don't force fluid backwards through the system. If you do this, I would recommend that you bleed the entire system after replacing the pads. This will insure that you do not have any air trapped in the brake lines. Plus, it is a good idea to do a thorough flush of the brake fluid once a year or so.
Although I didn't mention it, I was planning on installing speedbleeders whilst I was doing the pads and then bleeding through with ATE. I haven't done 'vette brakes before but I assume I'm going to recognise the bleed valve when I see it in that it's going to be near a caliper and a brake line!
look for the little "rubber covered nipple".....I installed the speed bleeders when I did my rotors and pads a few weeks back :cheers:....3/8 wrench if I remember correctly :)