Keeping her straight
Thanks in advance for the input-
If the car is jumping that hard left, it sounds like the transmission is tuned to slam a hard shift. Basically your momentarily breaking traction and regaining it.
Soften the shift up so that your not shocking the tires on the shift so bad, problem solved.
Be careful, if it actually manages to fully break traction on the shift, you'll be staring at a wall. Been there done that... Cold tires suck...
If the car is jumping that hard left, it sounds like the transmission is tuned to slam a hard shift. Basically your momentarily breaking traction and regaining it.
Soften the shift up so that your not shocking the tires on the shift so bad, problem solved.
Be careful, if it actually manages to fully break traction on the shift, you'll be staring at a wall. Been there done that... Cold tires suck...
Thanks for the quick replies, yes I forgot to put its automatic- so softening the shift will help- I'll talk to my tuner regarding that, thanks again!

My stick would tend to kick the rear out pretty hard under hard acceleration in 2nd and 3rd just above 4 grande, a good alignment along with good tires (Hancook V-12) solved my issues.
Lots of videos on YouTube where people have crunched their cars due to loosing traction (control) smart to make sure that power can be used as safely as possible.
Last edited by skydiven4fun; Feb 7, 2014 at 12:47 AM.
This is not the same as how fast it shifts from gear to gear... You will reduce wear to the packs to a certain extent with higher line pressure, but there is a price to pay. Its slamming hard parts, and shocking the drive train components.
A sure sign of a poorly tuned transmission for a specific setup is one that is slamming and chirping tires in every shift. That is, unless the customer desired it... People somewhere along the line got the idea that they want an auto that chirps the tires when it shifts. Chirping tires, are tires loosing traction.
Correctly tuned, an automatic will shift when commanded, be firm, and snappy, almost seamless between shifts. Setup this way, and the car will be very predictable, and stable.
This is not to say that there is no place for suspension or tire upgrades, that would be totally false. More, that if the car was just tuned, the transmission was likely dialed up, and the tuner just made it a little too hot for the current setup...
The options for the OP being, spend money on suspension parts, or just have the tuner dial it back a bit for no cost.
Last edited by GoatKart; Feb 7, 2014 at 12:51 AM.
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Here is what you need to keep planted. (After the cost to get it back on the road.) Tires, an alignment, and a few suspension upgrades. Im sure like most, if it was lowered, it was never given an alignment after. You are loosing traction due to negative camber if this is the case. What Pirellis's are you running? Width pails in comparison to the importance of compound, and Pirelli does make regular jack off tires too. So running Pirelli's doesn't necessarily mean you are running good tires.
You need a stiffer rear sway bar to help keep the wheels lined up too.
Once you are planted, you are going to shred your diff and or tranny. You need to combat wheel hop before it happens. Get a solid diff mount and maybe even a diff/trans brace. Even with these, it is important to upgrade the shafts in the diff. They are a notorious weak point.
Last edited by NukeC5; Feb 19, 2014 at 11:59 AM.







GREAT ADVICE!!!! After i read your very first paragraph and my recommendations were to make sure that your limited slip clutches are working correctly!Here are a couple of post that will explain how the rear end (differential works and how to inspect and improve it:
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
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- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
If it has not been done already, its a great idea and perfect time to harden up the rearend. At a minimum, replace the clutches and belleville washers. so you have proper traction on both rear wheels when you accelerate.
NukeC5
Has more good info!
At your power level, you need the PFADT Mount and a ECS Differential/trand brace....Bill
good tires (summer tires not all weather)
That PFADT diff mount really made the difference on the street.
Works for me, even at some high speed cold tire runs-very eye popping but kept straight.
Here is what you need to keep planted. (After the cost to get it back on the road.) Tires, an alignment, and a few suspension upgrades. Im sure like most, if it was lowered, it was never given an alignment after. You are loosing traction due to negative camber if this is the case. What Pirellis's are you running? Width pails in comparison to the importance of compound, and Pirelli does make regular jack off tires too. So running Pirelli's doesn't necessarily mean you are running good tires.
You need a stiffer rear sway bar to help keep the wheels lined up too.
Once you are planted, you are going to shred your diff and or tranny. You need to combat wheel hop before it happens. Get a solid diff mount and maybe even a diff/trans brace. Even with these, it is important to upgrade the shafts in the diff. They are a notorious weak point.
Thanks for all the great info guys!





That said,,, Do you know what P ZERO really stands for??????
Perillie ZERO TRACTION!!!
I switched from the OEM C5 ZO6 tires to Prellie PZero tires and found a significant loss of traction.
They are the ONLY tires that I have ever owned and promoted as truly HORRIBLE!


From the first 10 miles of them being mounted, I almost crashed my 02 ZO6. Just ask Justin at ZIP Performance. He was in the car with Me!!

I had to SUFFER thru 25,000 miles of lousy traction and I BLISTERED the damn things as MUCH as I could to expedite their demise.
HORRIBLE TIRES with SUB-PAR TRACTION! NEVER EVER,,,,,, purchase Prellie tires!










