Usually how they die, no codes till they get REAL sick. I had a Bonneville that did this, found a bunch of rust particles on the sensor when I took it apart, changed the sensor anyway. Had a few GM's do like this.

 

we will see if that's it. bought one at oreillys for 59. hope this solves the problem.

 

Just finished installing the crank sensor. Now i have several codes and the car will barely run. U1000, P0068, P0336 and a tcs 1278. Any ideas?

 

You sure its the correct one and you properly connected the connector. Were the wires in good shape? That would be my first suspect. There in a high heat area and I have see several CPS wiring issues.

Bill

DTC P0336
Circuit Description
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal indicates the crankshaft speed and position. The CKP sensor is connected directly to the powertrain control module (PCM) and consists of the following circuits:

The 12-volt reference circuit
The low reference circuit
The CKP sensor signal circuit
If the PCM detects that the CKP sensor is inconsistent for less than 2 seconds.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The engine is cranking or running.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
The PCM determines that the CKP sensor signal is for less than 2 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

This step tests for electromagnetic interference (EMI) on the CKP sensor circuits.

Vertical lines across the face of the sensor may indicate foreign material passing between the CKP sensor and the reluctor wheel. Lines which are not vertical across the face of the sensor may indicate a crack in the CKP sensor. Either of these conditions will cause this DTC to set.

Damage to the reluctor wheel can affect the CKP sensor output.

Step
Action
Yes
No

Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics

Connector End View Reference: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector End Views or Engine Controls Connector End Views

1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls

2

Important
Before proceeding with this DTC, diagnose DTC P0335, if active.


Observe the Freeze Frame/Failure records data for this DTC.
Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.
Does the DTC fail this ignition?
Go to Step 3
Go to Intermittent Conditions

3
Inspect the CKP sensor for circuit harnesses and for wires that are routed too close to the following components:
The wires to other components, or the secondary ignition wires
Aftermarket add-on electrical equipment
The solenoids
The relays
The motors
Inspect for incorrect harness routing.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 4

4
Test for poor connections at the CKP sensor. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections and Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 5

5
Test for poor connections at the PCM for the CKP sensor circuits, refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections and Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 6

6
Remove the CKP sensor. Refer to Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Replacement .
Inspect the CKP sensor for the following conditions:
Excessive air gap between the CKP sensor and the reluctor wheel
Foreign material passing between the CKP sensor and the reluctor wheel
Physical damage
Improper installation
Electromagnetic interference in the CKP sensor circuits
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 7

7
Inspect the CKP reluctor wheel for the following conditions:

Physical damage
Improper installation
Excessive endplay or looseness
Refer to Crankshaft and Bearings Removal in Engine Mechanical.

Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 8

8
Replace the CKP sensor. Refer to Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Replacement .

Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
--

9
Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.
Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.
Did the DTC fail this ignition?
Go to Step 2
Go to Step 10

10
Observe the Capture Info with a scan tool.

Are there any DTCs that have not been diagnosed?
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
System OK



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 851522
2004 Chevrolet Corvette

 

Thanks for all that Bill. When I took the old sensor out it appeared to be in perfect condition. The wires going to it looked to be in good shape also.The connector clip will only snap on one way. So now i will follow the rest of your steps. Thanks again

 

Very often, bad crank sensors have no visible damage and appear normal. These are basically eddy current probes that work by electromagnetic induction. The inside of these sensors are pretty complex. The only thing that worries me in your situation is that you bought an aftermarket sensor. Firstly, are you sure they gave you the right one for your car (as Bill suggests)? Secondly, are you sure that it is exactly, and I mean EXACTLY the same as the OEM part? Any slight difference can cause you grief. Apart from needing a crank relearn, you may run into a multitude of other issues. When I replaced mine, I made sure that I got an OEM AC Delco part and as soon as I replaced it, the car ran perfectly and has been ever since. No codes or any other issues.

 

Cybermind, the only visual difference i could see was the original sensor had a gm number stamped on it. After the cat shut down and set all the codes i left it alone for an hour. Started it back up and it ran perfect for 5 minutes then died a.d hasn't started since. no codes this time.

 

You need to get a scanner on it and see if your getting any crank pulses.

 

Just started it. ran fine for a few minutes then started trying to die. Still no codes. I don't have access to a scanner. It seems half the members say that after you install a crank sensor that it needs to relearn and others say no.

 

You do NOT have to relearn anything. My $200 Actron scanner can check crank pulses, you should get one.

 

I think you should go with what has been recommended, an original ac delco sensor. I have an auto repair shop and have lost a lot of time and money using aftermarket sensors. Take my word for it, just because it's new does not mean it's GOOD!

 

It would be a lot better if there were more shop willing to work on it. i am very limited on tool and knowledge

 

Just finished putting the ignition back in. It didn't change anything But at least it did restart.

 

What did you put back in?

 

I pulled the ignition out yesterday and cleaned the contact points. reinstalled it today.

 

OK. You'll never easily/cheaply figure this out without a scanner of some type. You have to find out what's failing when it happens that's why the scanners are so handy, you can capture a run and replay it.

 

what brand of scanner do you recommend

 

The Actrons are good for a reasonable price, if you want to spend a little more and have a laptop, Autoenginuity is good. I have both. The Autoenginuity actually allows you to command things On/Off to test things (like EGR valves for example).

This is the one I bought a few months ago for $200 on sale at Autozone I think:
http://actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16366

 

Wanted to thank everybody on this forum for their input. I pulled the aftermarket crank sensor back out and put ac delco back in and it fixed everything. My vette is back on the road in southern Missouri.

 

I'm glad it worked out for yah! We're lucky that a forum such as this exists.