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All is well again, I got my baby back together and everything seems to be running good. The oil pressure gauge is showing the right pressure again. For the broken elbow hose connector that I mentioned before, I was able to get a replacement for free from Advance Auto. The worker at advance went to the back and cut me off a section of hose and said it was free. It fits great.
For the EVAP service port line that I broke, my temp fix with JB Weld and some electrical tape seems to work so far. I received a email from someone at gmpartshouse.com saying they have the part and it's $43. I plan to buy one from them soon because I don't think my temp fix will hold up under a lot of heat and for a long time. My 2000 isn't a daily driver so I'm not in a huge rush to get it replaced.
To recap my lessons learned, this isn't as easy as I first imagined but if you take your time and don't get in a hurry it's a DIY project. This was my first time removing a intake so I hadn't anticipated breaking a few cheap hoses and lines. Anyone that's thinking of doing this, I'd say go ahead and pick up a section up hose at the parts store to extend the vacuum line behind the intake. They only charged 50 cents for a one foot section.
thanks again for all the comments and suggestions!
Next, I plan to tackle swapping the end links to the metal ones.
Brian
You won't have to buy the $43 part - you can follow this thread I started and do it with a vacuum line: Pretty simple and straight forward -
I removed my intake manifold a while back to replace the bad air check valve for the passenger head. Two things I can comment on is: a) make sure you use a good fuel line disconnect tool - I ruined my fuel line by using tool that didn't work well, and b) take the manifold all the way off so you can clean all the crap under the manifold. Just sliding it forward out of the way is risking getting dirt/sand/etc down the intake ports on the heads and between the manifold port gaskets and heads.
I removed my intake manifold a while back to replace the bad air check valve for the passenger head. Two things I can comment on is: a) make sure you use a good fuel line disconnect tool - I ruined my fuel line by using tool that didn't work well, and b) take the manifold all the way off so you can clean all the crap under the manifold. Just sliding it forward out of the way is risking getting dirt/sand/etc down the intake ports on the heads and between the manifold port gaskets and heads.
Which fuel disconnect tool should I get, where should I buy it?
Which fuel disconnect tool should I get, where should I buy it?
The one that worked well for me (after I already ruined my fuel line) was "Evercraft" brand, part no. 776-9086. 3/8" Fuel Line Disconnect Tool. Gold anodized aluminum - stay away from plastic ones. I think I got it at AutoZone.