I'm planning to replace a oil pressure sensor. I've followed some instructions found on this forum for removing the intake manifold. Air intake tube is removed, plugs on the injectors are unplugged, I've removed the 10 bolts holding intake on and the intake will lift up and move slightly toward the front of the car. I can not figure out what is still holding it in because when I try to pull it forward it won't move more than maybe a half inch. It seems like something is holding it on from the rear. Any ideas?

Also I broke the EVAP service port, the line is very brittle. If anyone knows where to get one of these, please let me know.

 

All that's left is the MAP plug, a small vacuum line right below that, and a brake booster hose. I've never been able to get the brake booster hose off the manifold. I always remove it from the brake booster itself and fish it around.

 

The TWO rear bolts cant be removed fully and they hang down and catch the heads.

Cut two 1/2" LONG pieces of vacuum line. Slice it length wise and raise up the bolts and slide the spacers on the shank of the bolt.

That will hold it up and the manifold will slide out

Go to AutoZone and purchase a brass vacuum fitting. You can drill out the old one and either TAP the manifold to screw the brass fitting in OR you can drill a hole and JB Weld epoxy it into place. File the inside so its smooth with the inside opening if it protrudes.

 

I think I've got it, I failed to remove the hose below the throttle body and that hose was what prevented me from moving the intake toward the front of the car. That hose is hard to see and hard to remove so instead I took the three bolts off the throttle body and removed it from the intake. Then I moved the throttle body (with the hose still attached to it) over to the side a little. Then I gave another tug on the intake. It seems to be moving back enough to get to where I can get to the oil pressure sensor and the other vacuum line. I'll mess with it in the morning, I ran out of daylight.

 

Can I repair this with a fitting or JB Weld and some black tape? If not where can I get a new one? Thanks

 

Hmmmmmmm,,, Thats a tough one. You may be able to get rid of the flex hose and replace it with vacuum line.

Its a dealer only item but look in the C5 parts for sale/wanted

Contact Gene Culley www.gmpartshouse.com If its available, he will have it for less than your local stealership.

 

I HIGHLY recommend against just sliding the manifold forward and then sliding it back when you are done the repair. You will have sand and dirt between each port and under the manifold.

It gets into the intake ports and can keep the O ring seals around the ports from sealing causing a vacuum leak.



You also have to make sure that you properly connect that little nylon hose to the back of the manifold.

Thats the vacuum source for the HVAC and the A.I.R. pump outlet valve.

BC

 

I used JB weld to glue the pieces back, then followed that with a thick layer of black tape. It looks fine to me as a temp fix. I've also took your advice and sent Gene a email and put a thread in the C5 parts for sale/wanted section.

This thing is way more fragile than it looks, it snapped like a tooth pick when I tried to disconnect it.

 

I did the exact same thing, forgot about that same hose since it is hidden.

Once that was removed, I could pull it out, but still couldn't get that little HVAC hose disconnected. Ended up saying screw it, I will just clean the port area as good as I can, and about that time the hose just popped off. I was happy because then I was able to remove the intake and clean it right.

Might want to change that check valve back there while everything is off too.

 

Ok, I'll watch out in the morning when I go tackle this again. I've probably already swept some dirt in already, I don't see how to really avoid this completely. I've moved the intake forward and back about a dozen times trying to track down the issue I was having. To remove the intake without sliding it a little to get it out from underneath the cowl is difficult for a first timer like me. It seems the safest thing to do is to remove it completely and check the gaskets and clean up any loose dirt in there.

 

This'll help:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5

Thanks,Matt

 

TGO

I know at least two people that have removed the intake manifold bolts and pulled the manifold forward just enough to do the repairs behind it. Then just slide it back to reinstall it.
I don't know why they just didn't completely remove it but, there was ZERO attention to the dirt that gets below the intake.

BC

 

I'm always discovering new places to use heat-shrink tube. It comes in many different diameters and colors and some of them have glue on the inside.
Might work for this situation.
It is made for use with electrical wiring. Use a heat gun or a hairdryer.

Good luck

 

PM this guy and see if he wants to get rid of the one he removed from his car.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ntraption.html

 

thanks, PM sent!

 

Here's what Bill mentioned about the dirt getting on the gasgets.

This is a picture of one of the intake ports on my intake after I removed it. All the ports were greasy and about half had dirt on it like this.




I had to extend the vacuum line behind the intake today, mine shattered and was very difficult to find one it broke off. I went to my auto parts store and they cut me a one foot length of flexible hose made for connecting vacuum lines. I used this to give me plenty of extra in case the intake ever needs to come off again.

Everything is all cleaned up nice and ready to be reinstalled.

 

Bill, in the above picture there is an elbow hose fitting near the middle of the left side of the picture. It is connected to the passenger side head. My fitting was split and when I removed the intake I tore it in half.

I'll check at Advance Auto tomorrow to see if this is something they have. Does anyone know where I can get this or even what it's called?
here's how it looks. thanks again.

 

That's a vacuum connector. Dorman 47403 should be a legit replacement, even though it's not a 90 degree piece. You can also use some 1/8" vacuum line and slide it over the nylon line a few inches and zip tie it and then the intake.
Most intakes that I remove need the port seals replaced because they lost their build. If you look across your mating surfaces across your head ports, you'll see if any are breached. They're too cheap to not replace anyways. It's a nice, proactive move IMO.

 

 

All is well again, I got my baby back together and everything seems to be running good. The oil pressure gauge is showing the right pressure again. For the broken elbow hose connector that I mentioned before, I was able to get a replacement for free from Advance Auto. The worker at advance went to the back and cut me off a section of hose and said it was free. It fits great.
For the EVAP service port line that I broke, my temp fix with JB Weld and some electrical tape seems to work so far. I received a email from someone at gmpartshouse.com saying they have the part and it's $43. I plan to buy one from them soon because I don't think my temp fix will hold up under a lot of heat and for a long time. My 2000 isn't a daily driver so I'm not in a huge rush to get it replaced.

To recap my lessons learned, this isn't as easy as I first imagined but if you take your time and don't get in a hurry it's a DIY project. This was my first time removing a intake so I hadn't anticipated breaking a few cheap hoses and lines. Anyone that's thinking of doing this, I'd say go ahead and pick up a section up hose at the parts store to extend the vacuum line behind the intake. They only charged 50 cents for a one foot section.

thanks again for all the comments and suggestions!

Next, I plan to tackle swapping the end links to the metal ones.

Brian