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I am changing out the engine in my 2004 Corvette convertible. Donating the AFR 205's and several other speed parts to my son's 94 Roadmaster wagon, 403 LS2 with a six speed. I am ready to install a 6.3 now in the Vette, Lunati crank, Mahle pistons; Tony massaged a set of AFR 215 V2's with Fast 102 and a NW 102 DBW TB. I am not one to run a big camshaft; settled on a 620 lift, 227/231 LSL Comp cam. My question is: what are the
benefits of a speed density tune? The engine I'm removing was tuned with the stock MAF, running a Fast 90 and a NW 90. Is speed density the way to go. Thanks in advance
I am changing out the engine in my 2004 Corvette convertible. Donating the AFR 205's and several other speed parts to my son's 94 Roadmaster wagon, 403 LS2 with a six speed. I am ready to install a 6.3 now in the Vette, Lunati crank, Mahle pistons; Tony massaged a set of AFR 215 V2's with Fast 102 and a NW 102 DBW TB. I am not one to run a big camshaft; settled on a 620 lift, 227/231 LSL Comp cam. My question is: what are the
benefits of a speed density tune? The engine I'm removing was tuned with the stock MAF, running a Fast 90 and a NW 90. Is speed density the way to go. Thanks in advance
The Holden (GM) guys over here in Oz love them. Most of the Commodores (think Pontiac G8s) are running MAFless.
In my Mitsubishi 4G63Turbo days, mafless meant you could vent to atmosphere (blow off valve) instead of having to return that air to the inlet, which was a non-benefit because it meant your turbo was being shocked when the throttle body closed, but cool for ricers that wanted that blow off valve sound.
Holden Special Vechicles came out stock with mafless tunes, I guess it eliminates the MAF if that is an air restriction. I believe Mass Air Pressure (speed density) v. Mass Air Flow does not take into account as many situations. So if you don't have a lot of temp or altitude changes, I think some calculations are simplified. But if you do have those varying conditions, the MAF may allow your vehicle to perform well everywhere. Other than that I don't know. I am going to get an Aussie tune from a guy that is supposed to know LS engines he is recommending I go mafless, but I think I keep my MAF and just see how it goes. I'll come back and provide a response if I figure anything out. If you have figured anything out in the last two weeks, please add it here. Thanks and happy hunting...
I think it is hit and miss. The MAF tune works well to adjusting parameters of the engine and unless you have some cam reversion issue thru the intake will be your best option if daily driven. I personally have my Z tuned speed density. A good speed density tune requires a lot of work. Years later I am still trying to improve things. Most tuners will get you a great WOT tune, but there is always some driveability issues that creep up depending on weather. I am always scanning my car and trying to make little tweaks to the driveability parts.
From what I understand, speed density is great for a specific condition (weather, humidity, etc) but when those conditions change, so does the performance of the car. Running through a maf allows the car to make the changes it needs for different conditions. Speed density is for the guy that does not mind constantly making changes to the tune. This is just how it was explained to me.
If the car is a driver, I would not do speed density.
Unless you are going big boost run the MAF... better drive ability, more consistent, better fuel economy... unless the MAF is a problem in one way or the other no need to remove it and go SD. Now if you just need a larger MAF you can move up to a larger housing maf and retune or use the newer card style maf and retune...