Crank Pinning Question: Front or Side drilling kit?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Crank Pinning Question: Front or Side drilling kit?
Have a chance to buy an ATI pinning kit with 5 pins, both the drill and reamer, and other guides. It's is a side drilling kit. I was confused as I've only seen the front drilling kits.
Can someone explain why you use one over the other?
Is it as simple as the front drill kits are used with the balancer on, the side method without?
Is one preferred over the other?
I want to go ahead and pin the crank when I do my heads/cam/headers/ and new Powerbond underdrive pulley and ARP crank bolt.
The kit I'm looking at is a side pinning kit by ATI I believe.
Can someone explain why you use one over the other?
Is it as simple as the front drill kits are used with the balancer on, the side method without?
Is one preferred over the other?
I want to go ahead and pin the crank when I do my heads/cam/headers/ and new Powerbond underdrive pulley and ARP crank bolt.
The kit I'm looking at is a side pinning kit by ATI I believe.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Side pin (ATI) works with the Powerbond since the Powerbond has the keyway already cut into the hub. ATI pin allows easy future removal/installation. End pin is very hard to re-align and if the pulley is replaced may require a new drill hole in the end of the crank. The ATI kit is the better design (IMO) and the kit is very high quality, but it does require the pulley to be removed for installation.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Side pin (ATI) works with the Powerbond since the Powerbond has the keyway already cut into the hub. ATI pin allows easy future removal/installation. End pin is very hard to re-align and if the pulley is replaced may require a new drill hole in the end of the crank. The ATI kit is the better design (IMO) and the kit is very high quality, but it does require the pulley to be removed for installation.
The future alignment is a good point as well and makes the side pinning sound nice. I do have a new Powerbond pulley waiting to go on when I finally get busy and do my upgrades. Being how this will only be a heads/cam motor, I'm pretty sure the side pinning will be plenty strong as a lot of people don't even bother pinning in the first place unless they are boosted. For $80, I'm getting this kit with 5 pins.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...nning-kit.html
When I tear my motor down and remove the oem balancer, I will go ahead and drill it out before removing the timing cover to change the cam, oil pump, and chain.
Just wanted to be sure this kit would work with my balancer. Hopefully the pins are the right size for the Powerbond's keyway.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,294
Likes: 1,579
From: Western NY
Side pin (ATI) works with the Powerbond since the Powerbond has the keyway already cut into the hub. ATI pin allows easy future removal/installation. End pin is very hard to re-align and if the pulley is replaced may require a new drill hole in the end of the crank. The ATI kit is the better design (IMO) and the kit is very high quality, but it does require the pulley to be removed for installation.
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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another advantage of the side pin is that not only will it keep the balancer from spinning on the crank but it will also help prevent it from walking forward if your bolt happened to come loose... I think either would be fine in your case since it's an n/a car, you won't be putting any extra tension on the balancer and other pulleys so it would probably never spin on the crank anyway... if you were local to me I'd let you use my front pin kit instead of having to buy one... when I installed my innovators west balancer I bought one of their pin kits and it's pretty nice but it will only work with their balancers I believe
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I used the ATI Side pinning kit. Its a work of art and is a LOT easier than I thought it would be to install. Works fantastic with any dampener that has a key way installed.
Bill
Bill
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Kind of an old thread but as I have yet to pin my crank, may as well take advantage of this.
Bill, is this the same kit you used?
http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...-kit-sold.html
That is the one I bought and have here. Along with the Powerbond underdrive balancer and ARP crank bolt. Still in the air on the Powerbond though. May sell it and get a non underdrive balancer.
Just worried about the charging system and such. Have a big audio system going in with 3 amps. Not sure if the underdrive reduces the alternators output or not. I'm about 95% sure the AC side of the pulley is only 10% underdrive. Not too worried about that. Don't use the AC that often.
Bill, is this the same kit you used?
http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...-kit-sold.html
That is the one I bought and have here. Along with the Powerbond underdrive balancer and ARP crank bolt. Still in the air on the Powerbond though. May sell it and get a non underdrive balancer.
Just worried about the charging system and such. Have a big audio system going in with 3 amps. Not sure if the underdrive reduces the alternators output or not. I'm about 95% sure the AC side of the pulley is only 10% underdrive. Not too worried about that. Don't use the AC that often.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Thanks Bill. Glad I made the right choice.
Hopefully after the first of the year I can get on this and swap the heads and cam on this thing. Have had these parts for a long time now!!! The engine work seems pretty easy. Not too worried other than figuring out the pushrod length. The only parts I will need to buy, have everything else.
It's the Monster Clutch install, and torque tube swap that has me worried.
Hopefully after the first of the year I can get on this and swap the heads and cam on this thing. Have had these parts for a long time now!!! The engine work seems pretty easy. Not too worried other than figuring out the pushrod length. The only parts I will need to buy, have everything else.
It's the Monster Clutch install, and torque tube swap that has me worried.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks Bill. Glad I made the right choice.
Hopefully after the first of the year I can get on this and swap the heads and cam on this thing. Have had these parts for a long time now!!! The engine work seems pretty easy. Not too worried other than figuring out the pushrod length. The only parts I will need to buy, have everything else.
It's the Monster Clutch install, and torque tube swap that has me worried.
Hopefully after the first of the year I can get on this and swap the heads and cam on this thing. Have had these parts for a long time now!!! The engine work seems pretty easy. Not too worried other than figuring out the pushrod length. The only parts I will need to buy, have everything else.
It's the Monster Clutch install, and torque tube swap that has me worried.
Some stuff that I incorporated that I highly recommend!
- ARP HEAD STUDS!
- New Lifter Buckets
- LS2 / LS7 or better Timing Chain
- New Clutch Pilot Bearing!!!!!!!!
- Comp Cams Trunion Kit
- Larger diameter pushrods
- Timing Chain Dampener If you don't have the holes for a stock dampener install, there's an aftermarket kit that secures to the cam retainer plate bolts.
- LOCKTITE High Strength for the cam retainer plate bolts and cam sprocket bolts.
- Melling Oil Pump
- Push Rod Length Checking Tool
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Hope you have all the PARTS that make this MOD more RELIABLE!
Some stuff that I incorporated that I highly recommend!
- ARP HEAD STUDS!
- New Lifter Buckets
- LS2 / LS7 or better Timing Chain
- New Clutch Pilot Bearing!!!!!!!!
- Comp Cams Trunion Kit
- Larger diameter pushrods
- Timing Chain Dampener If you don't have the holes for a stock dampener install, there's an aftermarket kit that secures to the cam retainer plate bolts.
- LOCKTITE High Strength for the cam retainer plate bolts and cam sprocket bolts.
- Melling Oil Pump
- Push Rod Length Checking Tool
Some stuff that I incorporated that I highly recommend!
- ARP HEAD STUDS!
- New Lifter Buckets
- LS2 / LS7 or better Timing Chain
- New Clutch Pilot Bearing!!!!!!!!
- Comp Cams Trunion Kit
- Larger diameter pushrods
- Timing Chain Dampener If you don't have the holes for a stock dampener install, there's an aftermarket kit that secures to the cam retainer plate bolts.
- LOCKTITE High Strength for the cam retainer plate bolts and cam sprocket bolts.
- Melling Oil Pump
- Push Rod Length Checking Tool
I bought a complete heads/cam package from Advanced Induction. I sent him my 243 heads for porting. Already had the trunion kit.
Not sure about the timing chain dampener but they sent me an LS2 timing chain. ported/blue printed oil pump. LS7 lifters, buckets, cam, and ARP cam bolts. I'm sure I'm missing something.
The Monster clutch I bought had everything I need including the remote bleeder.
Everything else I got from Gene. Head gaskets, front/rear seals, front rear cover seals, the valley cover gasket I just used. Exhaust manifold gaskets. Water Pump gaskets. idler pulleys......
I'm sure I will be missing at least 1 damn part!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
What is your DESIRED end goal HP/TQ????
What suspension do you have and have you improved anything suspension wise??
You need to call me..... I see some issues... Easily resolvable but things that you need to be aware of!!
Get ya a pad of paper and a pen and I will load you up with things to PONDER...
Here is some LIGHT READING for you to check out!
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
Add a remote bleeder to your list.. New engine mounts also!
BC
PM Sent
What suspension do you have and have you improved anything suspension wise??
You need to call me..... I see some issues... Easily resolvable but things that you need to be aware of!!
Get ya a pad of paper and a pen and I will load you up with things to PONDER...
Here is some LIGHT READING for you to check out!
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-
- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966
- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
Add a remote bleeder to your list.. New engine mounts also!
BC
PM Sent
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Bill, I'm hoping to end up 420-430 at the wheels. 400tq
Suspension: Pfadt Featherlite coilovers and C6 Z51 sways
Brake: stock with upgraded rotors and braided lines. (Big Brakes-future mod)
I am planning to get the knock-off Pfadt engine mounts. I already have a Pfadt trans mount and a DTE trans/diff brace. I also have 12mm torque tube to swap in when I do the clutch. Yes, I have a remote bleeder already. The 36" one from Monster. The flywheel is the 18lb model. Pilot bearing, slave, alignment tool.
As far as the differential, it is a future mod. Trying to buy a house right now so a few of the mods will be down the line a bit. I'm under my car all the time and keep it pretty clean under there. I have yet to see any type of leak from my diff. Guess I got lucky. But will replace that diff with a built 3 rib 3.92 when some play money comes my way. Or I come across a deal too good to pass up.
Suspension: Pfadt Featherlite coilovers and C6 Z51 sways
Brake: stock with upgraded rotors and braided lines. (Big Brakes-future mod)
I am planning to get the knock-off Pfadt engine mounts. I already have a Pfadt trans mount and a DTE trans/diff brace. I also have 12mm torque tube to swap in when I do the clutch. Yes, I have a remote bleeder already. The 36" one from Monster. The flywheel is the 18lb model. Pilot bearing, slave, alignment tool.
As far as the differential, it is a future mod. Trying to buy a house right now so a few of the mods will be down the line a bit. I'm under my car all the time and keep it pretty clean under there. I have yet to see any type of leak from my diff. Guess I got lucky. But will replace that diff with a built 3 rib 3.92 when some play money comes my way. Or I come across a deal too good to pass up.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
Yes, spent some time reading about the dampener on the LS1 engines. I dug through my parts and I do not have a dampener. Thanks for the heads up.
What I do know, is that I have the LS2 timing chain. Advanced Induction listed it as the HD Timing Chain option. Sounds like it will be fine for my mild heads/cam build.
So the only question is if my 97' block is predrilled or not. If it isn't, will order the Trick Flow kit as I'm not drilling into the block, at least not with it in the car!!! On a stand, yes. But not in the car. So will use an adapter in that case. But if it does have the holes drilled and threaded for a dampener, will see what is out there. Sounds like there are some LS6 dampeners and aftermarket dampeners to be had.
What I do know, is that I have the LS2 timing chain. Advanced Induction listed it as the HD Timing Chain option. Sounds like it will be fine for my mild heads/cam build.
So the only question is if my 97' block is predrilled or not. If it isn't, will order the Trick Flow kit as I'm not drilling into the block, at least not with it in the car!!! On a stand, yes. But not in the car. So will use an adapter in that case. But if it does have the holes drilled and threaded for a dampener, will see what is out there. Sounds like there are some LS6 dampeners and aftermarket dampeners to be had.