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Corvette Hop ?????

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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 11:15 PM
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Default Corvette Hop ?????

Hi

I just read a thread over at the C-6 Tech section saying that the corvette hop will hurt the rear.
This i am sure also applies to the C-5.

What is the best way to accelerate from a standing start or a rolling start?

I really do not push the car but getting onto a highway i sometimes have to push a little. And yes i have felt the hop but let off right away. I have maybe done this less then 10 times.

Please advise

Thanks

Alan
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 11:18 AM
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I don't think it is you but a issue with your car. I have some info at home but in the interim do a Goggle search on C5 Corvette wheel hop and start reading.

I can do VERY hard starts and shifts with NO wheel hop and my car is bone stock at this point. I have heard of some people who have a broken rear spring that causes it but many things can.
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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Its most likely drive-train shake that feels like "hop". The best fix I've found that is still available new is the Hinson urethane trans mount,
its much stiffer which helps prevent the shake.
The shake/hop can cause serious catastrophic failure/breakage of trans.
A good way to help prevent breakage is a trans brace from ECS or DTE,
but at near stock power levels you shouldn't need the brace.
The trans mount is a good idea for any one who likes to "get on it" often, in my opinion.
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 12:29 PM
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The transmission mount upgrade is the best way to stop the dangerous vibrations. Another cause is tires. Especially if you're running old crappy eagle run flats. Seems like a softer compound means the less danger in my experience. If you're taking off from stops a lot, wheel spin will add to the vibrations. Traction control may or may not be adding to it too.
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 01:17 PM
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What suspension do you have?? Base, F45, F55, Z51 or ZO6??

First thing I would do is get a better shock. My preference is the C6 ZO6 shock. Direct bolt in replacement and a MUCH better shock. OR Bilsteins. (sp?)

Next: YEP,,, The up-graded aftermarket differential mount.

Stock Run Flat tires are hard and side walls are very stiff. I went with a non run flat tire. Of course, the zo6 never had run flats but my 06 Z-51 coupe did and the non run flat tire change over on that car helped tire noise and hop /shake a LOT.


Tire pressure can also play a roll. Try 28-30 rear (cold) and 32 Front (cold) (Not that the front tires have anything to do with it) for best tire performance.

Speaking of better suspension stuff. What sway bar links do you have?

The plastic ones or the metal Z51/ZO6 links?? The metal ones are much better as they don’t deform under load.

Bill
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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Question?
When I pull away hard from a stop I get a little wiggle side to side, not wheel hop. Is this from the TC preventing spin?
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MBrianB
Question? When I pull away hard from a stop I get a little wiggle side to side, not wheel hop. Is this from the TC preventing spin?
Yes, if you turn off TC you will find that it continues to spin and keeps going that direction. With it on it is slowing down the wheel that is spinning allowing the other to catch up. If still overpowering grip then it will slow that one down too. It kinda switches from side to side making the wiggling feeling.
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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You could have weak and or damaged differential limited slip clutches and broken Belleville clutch pack pressure springs.

Put the drivetrain in neutral park brake OFF.. Front wheels chocked.

Jack up one rear wheel.. The other wheel chocked or on the ground. Attempt to rotate the one off the ground wheel. It should take a considerable amount of force to rotate it.

If its easy to rotate you need limited slip clutch repair and or replacement..
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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hmm I wouldn't think getting on the highway would cause it to hop unless you are in the upper rpms and banging the gears hard or possibly going over uneven pavement when on the gas, that can make the car feel like it is hopping... I experienced it most when I had some crappy bf goodrich gforce t/a kdw tires, one of the worst I've ever owned... switched those out along with pfadt motor/diff mounts and it is all gone, now it will only spin
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
hmm I wouldn't think getting on the highway would cause it to hop unless you are in the upper rpms and banging the gears hard or possibly going over uneven pavement when on the gas, that can make the car feel like it is hopping... I experienced it most when I had some crappy bf goodrich gforce t/a kdw tires, one of the worst I've ever owned... switched those out along with pfadt motor/diff mounts and it is all gone, now it will only spin
**** poor worn out OEM shocks will also cause the car to SKIDDER across a sweeping high speed highway on ramp. I experienced this in my 02 ZO6 at approx 45,000 miles.

The C6 ZO6 shocks completely eliminated that issue!

HAAA! My worst ever tires were the Prellie P Zero tires. Do you know what P ZERO stands for? **** POOR Zero traction! I couldnt wait to change them out

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 23, 2014 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
**** poor worn out OEM shocks will also cause the car to SKIDDER across a sweeping high speed highway on ramp. I experienced this in my 02 ZO6 at approx 45,000 miles.

The C6 ZO6 shocks completely eliminated that issue!

HAAA! My worst ever tires were the Prellie P Zero tires. Do you know what P ZERO stands for? **** POOR Zero traction! I couldnt wait to change them out
Lol...

I can speak from first hand on how this happened on my C5Z. I was at a track day going down back straight and shifting from 3-4 when wheel hop caused LOUD BANG,...white smoke everywhere in and out of cabin and I just rolled into pit area.

Towed to shop and found out I had a Right rear shock blown. I was on a stock suspension up to that point. My rear diff blew and ripped off the main trans shaft and right rear axle. See pic below. (If you look closely at pic you can see where this shaft is spiraled and melted/ripped off from the force) Required new diff, a tranny rebuild, new rear axle. Chose to upgrade with tranny/diff brace, polyurethane transmission and engine mounts, and polyurethane bushings all meant to minimize vibrations. Coil overs went on to upgrade suspension too. New Wavetrac diff rated at over 800whp. I word of caution with what I have done is that one of the brand new transmission mounts broke loose after ONE track event. I was only pushing car 7/10ths because of everything being new and have severe vibrations at speeds over 65mph. Don't know if it was defective but it's being replaced. Also discovered that vibration was partly due to bad rear bearing.

Thing to understand is that wheel hop SHOCKS the system like a jack hammer and will destroy even components that are rated for more power. My wheel hop was mainly due to Rear blown shock. Car wanted to squat when I shifted to 4th gear. Then as the left side was rebounding back up the right was still squatting (blown) and torsion ripped everything apart at 6000rpm. Not fun!

Check tires but more importantly check shocks, rubber bushings, transmission mounts, axles, and bearings. Recommend the diff/tranny brace as a first simple measure but might as well upgrade mounts and bushings while you are at it.

My 0.02,

C5Z06CE
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You could have weak and or damaged differential limited slip clutches and broken Belleville clutch pack pressure springs.

Put the drivetrain in neutral park brake OFF.. Front wheels chocked.

Jack up one rear wheel.. The other wheel chocked or on the ground. Attempt to rotate the one off the ground wheel. It should take a considerable amount of force to rotate it.

If its easy to rotate you need limited slip clutch repair and or replacement..
Thanks for the info Bill. I had some time this evening and did as you instructed. I could not budge that wheel. Maybe if I stood on one of the wheel spokes but even then I doubt I could turn the wheel. There was about 3 degrees of freeplay which is normal before the clutches grab. Thanks again.
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MBrianB
Thanks for the info Bill. I had some time this evening and did as you instructed. I could not budge that wheel. Maybe if I stood on one of the wheel spokes but even then I doubt I could turn the wheel. There was about 3 degrees of freeplay which is normal before the clutches grab. Thanks again.
If the car was out of gear and E brake off,, that a very stout limited slip clutch.

If all that was good.. did you have any free play in the rear wheel bearings if you tried to push - pull the wheel at the 3-9 and 12-6 O Clock positions.

Bill
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If the car was out of gear and E brake off,, that a very stout limited slip clutch.

If all that was good.. did you have any free play in the rear wheel bearings if you tried to push - pull the wheel at the 3-9 and 12-6 O Clock positions.

Bill
Did not feel any freeplay at all. I've never really pushed the vette off the line other than a steady hard push on the go pedal. Never even spun the tires yet. Only owned it for 5 weeks now. Its an A4 Vert. Just had the wiggle when accelerating harder than normal especially at some of the intersections on Mulholland on the weekends. Im going to try to have some fun this weekend with the TC off and see whats up.
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MBrianB
Did not feel any freeplay at all. I've never really pushed the vette off the line other than a steady hard push on the go pedal. Never even spun the tires yet. Only owned it for 5 weeks now. Its an A4 Vert. Just had the wiggle when accelerating harder than normal especially at some of the intersections on Mulholland on the weekends. Im going to try to have some fun this weekend with the TC off and see whats up.
Seriously recommend trying COMPETITION MODE First. Press and HOLD the traction control mode button until the DIC displays COMP MODE.

That will allow you to spin the tires but allows the EBTCM to keep the car from loosing lateral control (drifting sideways "uncontrollably") by applying corrective braking
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Seriously recommend trying COMPETITION MODE First. Press and HOLD the traction control mode button until the DIC displays COMP MODE.

That will allow you to spin the tires but allows the EBTCM to keep the car from loosing lateral control (drifting sideways "uncontrollably") by applying corrective braking
And spin they do. With little effort.
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