Broken Starter Bolt
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
Another thing you might try is finding a specialist or machine shop that deals with broken bolts. There are ways to remove the bolts that don't involve heli-coils. Don't know wear you're located, but you can look one for by searching google for "broken bolt removal" and your city. Here's one I found in my area:
http://www.brokentap.com/
http://www.brokentap.com/
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Unfortunately, you're just screwing yourself by drilling and tapping to a random size of thread. The starter pretty much requires that 10mm bolt with the knurled shank so you need to fit it and not some other random bolt. You might get away with a standard bolt long enough to move the car but eventually the starter will move around on the block, get crooked and bend the bolts or break the starter or the block.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Helicoils are very easy to install. You simply tap the hole for the correct outer helicoil thread, use the tool to insert the helicoil and then break off the tang. I would get not only the correct helicoil to re-establish the original thread but also get one long enough to fully thread the length of the tab. They come in lengths measured by diameter, i.e., a 1D helicoil is one diameter long and a 2D is two diameters long. This information is available on line.
Don't skimp on this one or you will likely have bigger issues down the road. Get the correct parts, either locally or on line.
Don't skimp on this one or you will likely have bigger issues down the road. Get the correct parts, either locally or on line.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
Ok, So here's the deal.
The hole has recessed threads which are in there about 3/4 inch.
So I found a helicoil kit at autozone.
The hole isn't straight because I don't know it just isn't but it isn't slanted trough the entire hole only after the first 3/4 (figure that out)
So what I did was use washers to pull the bolt out a little.
Here is the problem that created: The bolt can't be torqued to over 10ft pounds. It just spins I assume it is spinning on the helicoil but the bolt is in there, you aren't just pulling it out.
I'm pretty sure the bolt under the most amount of torque is on the driver side.
Started it 5 times starts fine.
The hole has recessed threads which are in there about 3/4 inch.
So I found a helicoil kit at autozone.
The hole isn't straight because I don't know it just isn't but it isn't slanted trough the entire hole only after the first 3/4 (figure that out)
So what I did was use washers to pull the bolt out a little.
Here is the problem that created: The bolt can't be torqued to over 10ft pounds. It just spins I assume it is spinning on the helicoil but the bolt is in there, you aren't just pulling it out.
I'm pretty sure the bolt under the most amount of torque is on the driver side.
Started it 5 times starts fine.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
Side note, Since the engine spins clockwise (to the right) the starter spins counter clockwise (to the left).
This would mean that the bolt on the driver side would have the load from the starter. If your engine spins one way the frame will twist the other so to speak. So since the starter spins to the left it will torque on the right. Since that bolt is torqued to 37ft lbs it will take the load just fine the other bolt is just responsible for keeping it in position.
This would mean that the bolt on the driver side would have the load from the starter. If your engine spins one way the frame will twist the other so to speak. So since the starter spins to the left it will torque on the right. Since that bolt is torqued to 37ft lbs it will take the load just fine the other bolt is just responsible for keeping it in position.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 415
Likes: 19
From: Mobile Alabama
Starter bridge solves the problem, expensive but cheaper than pulling the engine and welding the block back together. the bridge also looks to be a permanent fix.
http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html
http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
Starter bridge solves the problem, expensive but cheaper than pulling the engine and welding the block back together. the bridge also looks to be a permanent fix.
http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html
http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html
Why buy the bridge if it isn't broken yet?
if it breaks I will go to that.
Also I would make that before I paid for it. The design seems way to simple.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
Has to be less than an 4x4 square piece of metal too he knows most people don't want to bother with fabrication and he is right.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
I fail to see why a nut and bolt won't work here??? Is there no room on the other side for a nut and washer? Looks like there is, but I know it's just a pic. If there is, use a bolt with a shoulder that fits nice in the size hole you have. Or use a sleeve in the hole you have for the bolt to be centered in. That would stop any movement and I'm sure you would be able to torque it down enough.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
I fail to see why a nut and bolt won't work here??? Is there no room on the other side for a nut and washer? Looks like there is, but I know it's just a pic. If there is, use a bolt with a shoulder that fits nice in the size hole you have. Or use a sleeve in the hole you have for the bolt to be centered in. That would stop any movement and I'm sure you would be able to torque it down enough.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
I have absolutely no motivation to drop the H pipe again break the drill back out and start drilling.
I might do it in due time. I have my doubts that it will ever come out.
I might do it in due time. I have my doubts that it will ever come out.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 856
From: Walhalla South Carolina
I know this isn't funny at all but the way u described your fustration was to much, ie pulling sob n middle of street, to funny. I looked at doing the swap on mine and i have a pit n my shop so not an issue getting to it, but when i saw i was going to have to drop the entire exhaust system i cam to my sense and said if it ain't broke don't fix it. I hope your fix holds up. With your luck i wouldn't put those other parts on, send them back.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
I know this isn't funny at all but the way u described your fustration was to much, ie pulling sob n middle of street, to funny. I looked at doing the swap on mine and i have a pit n my shop so not an issue getting to it, but when i saw i was going to have to drop the entire exhaust system i cam to my sense and said if it ain't broke don't fix it. I hope your fix holds up. With your luck i wouldn't put those other parts on, send them back.
The exhaust system, you don't need to take the entire H out all you need to do is undo the 6 bolts at the flanges and the 4 bolts on the the 2 supports, so you wont need to buy new gaskets for where the cat back section is.
3 weeks ago I pulled the H to fix an exhaust leak and I broke 4 of the 6 flange bolts. So I ended up needing to pull the exhaust manifolds which is very easy to do just slightly time consuming. The bolts all came out of the head with no problem and those are on the side. I only assume the ones on the top of the engine are fine.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I wouldn't trust that fix myself. Your starter alignment won't be worth a crap. The knurled part of the bolt aligns between the starter and the block to keep it straight in line. All those washers are killing that alignment.
I broke about 3 or 4 of the flange studs so I took them all out without removing the manifolds. It was actually really easy to get them out.
I broke about 3 or 4 of the flange studs so I took them all out without removing the manifolds. It was actually really easy to get them out.