Broken Starter Bolt
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 749
Likes: 13
From: SoCal CA
The bolts on the upper part of the engine seem to be fine, Last year the water pump was replaced and I reused the bolts (big mistake because it is leaking now) I ordered new stainless ones and will feel safer torquing those.
The exhaust system, you don't need to take the entire H out all you need to do is undo the 6 bolts at the flanges and the 4 bolts on the the 2 supports, so you wont need to buy new gaskets for where the cat back section is.
3 weeks ago I pulled the H to fix an exhaust leak and I broke 4 of the 6 flange bolts. So I ended up needing to pull the exhaust manifolds which is very easy to do just slightly time consuming. The bolts all came out of the head with no problem and those are on the side. I only assume the ones on the top of the engine are fine.
The exhaust system, you don't need to take the entire H out all you need to do is undo the 6 bolts at the flanges and the 4 bolts on the the 2 supports, so you wont need to buy new gaskets for where the cat back section is.
3 weeks ago I pulled the H to fix an exhaust leak and I broke 4 of the 6 flange bolts. So I ended up needing to pull the exhaust manifolds which is very easy to do just slightly time consuming. The bolts all came out of the head with no problem and those are on the side. I only assume the ones on the top of the engine are fine.
Just remember even with stainless bolts, you're torqueing them into an aluminum block. You also should invest in a can of Kroil. It's an industrial strength penetrating oil. I used to work construction in power plants, and the millwrights used it when disassembling the gas turbines. That should save you from breaking so many bolts.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 181
Likes: 1
From: Franklin Square NY
I wouldn't trust that fix myself. Your starter alignment won't be worth a crap. The knurled part of the bolt aligns between the starter and the block to keep it straight in line. All those washers are killing that alignment.
I broke about 3 or 4 of the flange studs so I took them all out without removing the manifolds. It was actually really easy to get them out.
I broke about 3 or 4 of the flange studs so I took them all out without removing the manifolds. It was actually really easy to get them out.
Any ways, The flange bolts must of been busted before because it never had studs. Not now it has 1 normal flange bolt 4 7/16 bolts and 1 big *** metric bolt. Seals nice at least. Through bolts are a much better option with these you need to be quite hand in getting a ratchet around one of them but after you figure it out it is no big deal.
I talked to a physicist I know and he said that I should have nothing to worry about when it comes to the starter torquing because all the torque is on the "good bolt" the other side is pretty much an alignment issue and holding it to the block. He also said it appears the original starter was designed backwards and that the small tab should of been on the opposite side. (also he added he wasn't a mechanic so he could be wrong).
Last edited by robert1989; Aug 31, 2014 at 07:15 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Just remember even with stainless bolts, you're torqueing them into an aluminum block. You also should invest in a can of Kroil. It's an industrial strength penetrating oil. I used to work construction in power plants, and the millwrights used it when disassembling the gas turbines. That should save you from breaking so many bolts.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
I don't know if this is an option for you but my starter broke off along with a piece of the block (split the bolt hole in half that the bolt goes through) when my Vette hydro locked, Luckily I still had the peice that broke off. I welded it back with JB WELD! That was 2yrs ago and its still holding. Something to consider if you have that option. Whatever you decide, good luck.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Mind broke when I had a coolant leak hydro lock in #1 Cyl.
I went the TIG welding route and my welder reinforced the damaged area. The add in that starter bridge link stated that welding wouldn't last long. Bahhhhhhhhh Haaaaaaaaaaa. I used the talents of a Nuclear Welder and let me tell ya.. Its better than NEW!
Good as new!
We did such a good job at matching the break, clamping it back, spot tig welding, V grooving the crack between the spot welds and then reinforcement welds that I was able to use the original threads in the damaged hole without issue.
I was ready to use a TINESERT but I didn't need to.
Bill
I went the TIG welding route and my welder reinforced the damaged area. The add in that starter bridge link stated that welding wouldn't last long. Bahhhhhhhhh Haaaaaaaaaaa. I used the talents of a Nuclear Welder and let me tell ya.. Its better than NEW!
Good as new!
We did such a good job at matching the break, clamping it back, spot tig welding, V grooving the crack between the spot welds and then reinforcement welds that I was able to use the original threads in the damaged hole without issue.
I was ready to use a TINESERT but I didn't need to.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Sep 1, 2014 at 11:48 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 8
From: Sacramento California
I went the TIG welding route and my welder reinforced the damaged area. The add in that starter bridge link stated that welding wouldn't last long. Bahhhhhhhhh Haaaaaaaaaaa. I used the talents of a Nuclear Welder and let me tell ya.. Its better than NEW!
Good as new!
We did such a good job at matching the break, clamping it back, spot tig welding, V grooving the crack between the spot welds and then reinforcement welds that I was able to use the original threads in the damaged hole without issue.
I was ready to use a TINESERT but I didn't need to.
Bill
Good as new!
We did such a good job at matching the break, clamping it back, spot tig welding, V grooving the crack between the spot welds and then reinforcement welds that I was able to use the original threads in the damaged hole without issue.
I was ready to use a TINESERT but I didn't need to.
Bill
This is the proper fix. If the ear is already broken off.Yours isn't yet. Like mentioned several times before, why are you not considering a nut and bolt? Make sure the hole is drilled straight. Get a grade 8 shoulder bolt with the shoulder long enough to reach into the block ear, then torque it down. The shoulder will work like an alignment pin and keep the starter from moving. Sure seems like an easy fix being yours isn't broken off yet. Use an oversized washer on the back side to support the ear to help it from breaking off down the road. If it ends up snapping off, do what Bill did.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
This is the proper fix. If the ear is already broken off.Yours isn't yet. Like mentioned several times before, why are you not considering a nut and bolt? Make sure the hole is drilled straight. Get a grade 8 shoulder bolt with the shoulder long enough to reach into the block ear, then torque it down. The shoulder will work like an alignment pin and keep the starter from moving. Sure seems like an easy fix being yours isn't broken off yet. Use an oversized washer on the back side to support the ear to help it from breaking off down the road. If it ends up snapping off, do what Bill did.
"Oh Well, wherever, wherever you are,
Iron Maiden's gonna get you, no matter how far.
See the blood flow watching it shed up above my head.
Iron Maiden wants you for dead."
Sorry, couldn't resist !