So it appears I need to bleed my clutch and I have LT headers and no remote bleeder. As expected I'm not looking forward to this job or the loss of my weekend.

While reading up on doing this, I came across a comment (which I can't find now) about a shop bleeding the clutch from the top by taking off the intake manifold, laying on the engine and reaching back to the top of the clutch housing.

Has anyone used this method? Does it work? Feedback? Seems it would be much easier if its a viable technique.

 

I haven't done it with mine, but this is what I found and posted in an earlier thread. This sounds like what you are talking about.

I stumbled across something from the C6 sections that sounded interesting. The text says it works for C5 and C6. I have never seen this method discussed in the C5 section, but it sounds a lot better than what most do to get to the bleeder.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ur-clutch.html

Part of it is extracted below. Good luck.


A remote bleeder is nice and convenient but not all of us are willing or able to put a remote bleeder in or quite honestly I don’t know if you can even get one installed without tearing the torque tube and clutch out. So what can we do that is not too labor intensive and wont cost much? or How can we optimize this system and make it last? Whether its the basic STOCK clutch setup or a rather expensive aftermarket clutch this should only help. We are going to tell you how we do it in the car without too much labor.

The easiest way that we have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold.

 

Thanks QC! That was the info I was looking for!

I'd still be interested in hearing from anyone who has done this.

 

Intake manifold removal is quick and easy. Give it a go and see for your self.

Bill

 

One question I have about this method is where does the fluid go when bleeding? does it drain into the bell housing where it can get on the clutch, or does it drain outside where it can be wiped off, causing no problems?

 

I'll report back, but it may still be a couple weeks before I have the time.

 

It drains inside the bell housing where the slave lives. It drains to the bottom of the inspection cover where you can flush it out with spray brake parts cleaner and also flysh out any other dirt and dust.

 

If you can use this method to reach the port with a wrench, why wouldn't you be installing a remote bleeder while you're there???

 

The bleeder sticks out of the side of the bell housing so it'll dump the fluid outside of the bell housing.

 

Probably not enough access to install a bleeder. I get the impression this is a tough reach and blind, at best.

 

It would be hard to do because of the distance to the bleeder threads from the outside. Only the very end of the bleeder screw is accessible..



This is especially relevant with most bleeders that use the short fitting with the crush washer.

 

Rats, sounded like a way to get to permanent fix without dropping the drivetrain.

 

It's unfortunate that nobody has made (That I found) the correct fitting that is long enough to do without having it all apart. If the remote bleeder fitting was as long as the stock bleeder screw, it would be significantly easier.

 

I recently installed a Tick clutch master on my car but never bled the system. Found this thread and Ill be starting it tomorrow. Luckily Im on vacation this week. Ill report back on how it goes.

 

You can actually bleed the slave cylinder by applying vacuum pressure to the MC. This procedure is documented in the factory service manual. If you don't like it, take it up with GM. It requires a special adapter to seal over the MC, but here is a thread about the one I built from a rubber drain stopper.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...c-adapter.html

 

OH SWEEEET!!!!!!!!! That sounds much better than pulling the intake!!!!! So you just install that plug on the reservoir, pump, and then what?

 

Pump up (down) to 20" vacuum, hold for a second, release, repeat several times

What happens is the slave cylinder collapses and the air in it rises and/or gets sucked into the reservoir. Then when you release the vacuum, the slave cylinder relaxes, and pulls back in fluid instead of air.

It does work. I've done it several times. And I've heard unofficially that this is actually the method which was used on the assembly line.

 

Count me in, as soon as the home warranty guys replace the garage door opener Im off to find that plug!! Thanks!!

Sorry for hogging up your post OP.

 

i just replaced my MC and the slave. and i done this all alone. if you can get a buddy i would suggest you get his help!! i didnt have time to order the remote bleeder so that was not fun at all.

 

So glad I tried this! Worked great and cost me about $10 for the plug from Lowes and bleed screw from Autozone.