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I'm in the process of getting ready to change the clutch in my '02 C5 to a McLeod RXT twin disk setup. Other than the obvious like slave cylinder with remote bleeder and throwout bearing, what else should I look into doing "while I'm in there" and have things apart. Thinking torque tube bushings (couplers) would be a good idea even though car only has 30k miles, but I'm on the fence about whether of not to go aftermarket rubber couplers or OEM GM's. I see a number of performance shops sell cheaper aftermarket ones but I've also heard lots of negatives about early failures. Car is stock except for headers, intake, etc, but I do plan on going the forced induction route over the winter. Anyhow, what's best to be done in while things are apart down there? Thanks.
Stick with the STOCK GM COUPLERS! I have a C5 ZO6 @ 450 RWHP and the OEM rubber couplers work fine!
TWO IMPOTRANT THINGS!
FLY WHEEL BALANCE:
Mark the stock OEM flywheel to crank relationship prior to removal!!
1- If your OEM flywheel has OFF SET WEIGHTS in the outer rim,, you MUST have the new aftermarket fly wheel OFF SET BALANCED to the old fly wheel to maintain the proper GM Factory engine balance!!!!!!!! REinstall the new OFF SET Balanced flywheel in the OEM marked location.
2- Critical Clutch measurements: You MUST take the critical pressure plate to throw out bearing measurements to determine what slave shims or no slave shims need to be installed between the salve cyl and the Torque tube. Without doing the measurements, you will ether have NO clutch release or improper engagement and clutch slippage.
Check the TICK Master Cyl web site for the proper instructions on shim selection and how to measure.
Engine mounts:
Make sure that your OEM engine mounts are not bad/broken!
while you've got it apart, you may as well go ahead and also do the TR6060 swap with a C6Z cradle/diff.
especially since you're planning on boosting... that junk gets addictive & you just keep turning it up.