Monster Clutch Install
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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Monster Clutch Install
Hi Everyone,
I have a 98 that I going to start installing a stage 2 in starting Wed. I have read every how to that I can find and I am going to use the one from Dope as my primary guide along with the shop manuals.
The questions I have are when I start lowering the rear end is the torque tube unbolted from the bell housing before lowering? It appears that there is some flex since there are warnings not to go too low before the torque tube is pulled from the bellhousing. Does that flex cause the input shaft on the end of the torque tube to bind making it tough to pull out?
I have set aside Wed and Thur for the install, on Fri I am taking a day trip to Effingham to the FunFest to see what I can pick up at the swap meet.
Thanks to everyone here, I've learned a lot by reading the postings from this forum.
Rob
I have a 98 that I going to start installing a stage 2 in starting Wed. I have read every how to that I can find and I am going to use the one from Dope as my primary guide along with the shop manuals.
The questions I have are when I start lowering the rear end is the torque tube unbolted from the bell housing before lowering? It appears that there is some flex since there are warnings not to go too low before the torque tube is pulled from the bellhousing. Does that flex cause the input shaft on the end of the torque tube to bind making it tough to pull out?
I have set aside Wed and Thur for the install, on Fri I am taking a day trip to Effingham to the FunFest to see what I can pick up at the swap meet.
Thanks to everyone here, I've learned a lot by reading the postings from this forum.
Rob
Racer
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From: Bridgewater NJ
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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Are the bellhousing bolts easy to get to? I have seen examples where folks remove it and others that don't.
Rob
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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Hi
I'm starting day 4 of my clutch install. My son and I were starting to put the torque tube and trans back in when I noticed things were not lining up.
I had a jack under the oil pan, with a block of wood, but it appears the motor tilted back. I had the jack in the front of the pan by the drain plug, was that the correct place?
We are going to take another stab at it this afternoon when he gets off work. If we get the torque tube on can we use that as a lever to get the engine tilted back, being careful not to hit the firewall?
I'm going to try using a trick I found in Corvette magazine that uses pins in the bellhousing to guide the torque tube in. If that fails I am going to have it flatbedded to a repair shop.
Anyone have any suggestions on a repair shop in St. Louis MO they trust?
Rob
I'm starting day 4 of my clutch install. My son and I were starting to put the torque tube and trans back in when I noticed things were not lining up.
I had a jack under the oil pan, with a block of wood, but it appears the motor tilted back. I had the jack in the front of the pan by the drain plug, was that the correct place?
We are going to take another stab at it this afternoon when he gets off work. If we get the torque tube on can we use that as a lever to get the engine tilted back, being careful not to hit the firewall?
I'm going to try using a trick I found in Corvette magazine that uses pins in the bellhousing to guide the torque tube in. If that fails I am going to have it flatbedded to a repair shop.
Anyone have any suggestions on a repair shop in St. Louis MO they trust?
Rob
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 530
Likes: 164
From: Central East Florida
You may find it easier to separate the trans form the TT. This will allow you to align the TT better by hand. In addition this will help not damage the NEW TOB you installed right?. This is a heck of a job so I hope you balanced matched the assembly before re-installing it. You may want to install a speed bleeder and check everything for leaks before you install the tranny and diff.
Good luck this is can be a good experience or a total train wreck.
Good luck this is can be a good experience or a total train wreck.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
WOW! I was thinking the EXACT SAME thing! 
Took the words right out of my mouth!
Its MUCH MUCH easier to install the TT by its self and then bolt the trans/diff back to the rear of the TT.
I too hope you have the proper flywheel balance and took that into consideration.
I also hope you took the critical measurements for the throw out bearing to pressure plate shim. (If shim is required)
Please let us know how you made out with the install
Took the words right out of my mouth! Its MUCH MUCH easier to install the TT by its self and then bolt the trans/diff back to the rear of the TT.
I too hope you have the proper flywheel balance and took that into consideration.
I also hope you took the critical measurements for the throw out bearing to pressure plate shim. (If shim is required)
Please let us know how you made out with the install
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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Thanks to this forum I had the new FW and PP matched to the old FW and PP. I marked where the old FW and PP were installed and put the new in the same location.
I have a new TOB and slave with a speed bleeder. I am trying to install the TT by itself and running into an issue. It gets within about a half inch of the bellhousing and then stops. When I try the C clamp it forces the TT down, at that point I back off and try again. I don't think I am lining up exactly with the pilot bearing. I checked with the alignment tool and everything is ok. I just think I'm not coming in at the right angle for the pilot bearing.
Any tricks to get lined up with the pilot? I tried making the pins mentioned in Corvette magazine put they did not help with the pilot.
Thanks for the replies.
I have a new TOB and slave with a speed bleeder. I am trying to install the TT by itself and running into an issue. It gets within about a half inch of the bellhousing and then stops. When I try the C clamp it forces the TT down, at that point I back off and try again. I don't think I am lining up exactly with the pilot bearing. I checked with the alignment tool and everything is ok. I just think I'm not coming in at the right angle for the pilot bearing.
Any tricks to get lined up with the pilot? I tried making the pins mentioned in Corvette magazine put they did not help with the pilot.
Thanks for the replies.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Is your ALIGNMENT TOOL 90 deg perpendicular to the bell housing face?? Check it with a square.
You may have to loosen up the fasteners on the pressure plate and get the disk to slide and center so that it allows the tool to be 90 degrees square. That way your TT shaft will slide right in the disk and the pilot brg.
Bill
You may have to loosen up the fasteners on the pressure plate and get the disk to slide and center so that it allows the tool to be 90 degrees square. That way your TT shaft will slide right in the disk and the pilot brg.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Sep 23, 2014 at 04:34 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
DID you install a NEW PILOT BEARING??? If not, the bearing could have puked out the roller bearings and is blocking the TT input shaft nose.
If you did install a new pilot brg, make sure that it is not BENT / Damaged.
No way should you have to FORCE it in to seat it. It should wiggle / slide right in!
Bill
If you did install a new pilot brg, make sure that it is not BENT / Damaged.
No way should you have to FORCE it in to seat it. It should wiggle / slide right in!
Bill
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Out of curiosity, what was the balance of your stock FW, stock PP, stock FW/PP together, or however they chose to take balance readings to match the replacement parts? And did your stock FW have any balance weights in it? When you marked your stock FW before removal from the crank, where the "7th" holes lined up? Thanks for this info if you have it handy.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you didnt install a new pilot brg,,, its highly recommended that you do. Mine was ready to take a dump at 50K miles. It was very dry and the bearings fell out easily once the TT was removed.
Its a pain to get in and out but wellll worth the effort. I used heat (just a little) to warm the crank face to help remove and reinstall. I also froze the bearing when I reinstalled it.
Made the job a lot easier and less chance of damage to the bearing cage
Bill
Its a pain to get in and out but wellll worth the effort. I used heat (just a little) to warm the crank face to help remove and reinstall. I also froze the bearing when I reinstalled it.
Made the job a lot easier and less chance of damage to the bearing cage
Bill
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Good job at being thorough
Out of curiosity, what was the balance of your stock FW, stock PP, stock FW/PP together, or however they chose to take balance readings to match the replacement parts? And did your stock FW have any balance weights in it? When you marked your stock FW before removal from the crank, where the "7th" holes lined up? Thanks for this info if you have it handy.
Out of curiosity, what was the balance of your stock FW, stock PP, stock FW/PP together, or however they chose to take balance readings to match the replacement parts? And did your stock FW have any balance weights in it? When you marked your stock FW before removal from the crank, where the "7th" holes lined up? Thanks for this info if you have it handy.
It looked like it had weights added, I can post a pic later.
Yes I used a little white nail polish.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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If you didnt install a new pilot brg,,, its highly recommended that you do. Mine was ready to take a dump at 50K miles. It was very dry and the bearings fell out easily once the TT was removed.
Its a pain to get in and out but wellll worth the effort. I used heat (just a little) to warm the crank face to help remove and reinstall. I also froze the bearing when I reinstalled it.
Made the job a lot easier and less chance of damage to the bearing cage
Bill
Its a pain to get in and out but wellll worth the effort. I used heat (just a little) to warm the crank face to help remove and reinstall. I also froze the bearing when I reinstalled it.
Made the job a lot easier and less chance of damage to the bearing cage
Bill
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 33
From: Virginia Beach VA
do you happen to have a balance sheet or print out they might have given you, or is this from their word of mouth? The reason I ask is sometimes a balance shop will give a reading like that "as from the computer screen". For instance, some software will have you input a correction radius (the radial distance you will be removing or adding weight) and the diameter of a hole you may be drilling to remove weight, and then it will give you a reading of how much mass to remove (or add) at that given radius to get it down to zero. So it could read "5 grams" at a correction radius of 7 inches, and the tech might say it's "5 grams out". In reality, that is 35 gram∙in of imbalance. (really not trying to lecture) but grams are units of mass, and gram∙in are units of imbalance. Do you happen to know if they meant "9.6 grams at some correction radius (then what radius), or 9.6 gram∙in? If that's too confusing to try to find out, don't worry about it, it's just for my own curiosity to compare what you found with tolerances I have been told.
thanks again for updating. Glad you got that TT back in too!
Thread Starter
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Thank you for this.
do you happen to have a balance sheet or print out they might have given you, or is this from their word of mouth? The reason I ask is sometimes a balance shop will give a reading like that "as from the computer screen". For instance, some software will have you input a correction radius (the radial distance you will be removing or adding weight) and the diameter of a hole you may be drilling to remove weight, and then it will give you a reading of how much mass to remove (or add) at that given radius to get it down to zero. So it could read "5 grams" at a correction radius of 7 inches, and the tech might say it's "5 grams out". In reality, that is 35 gram∙in of imbalance. (really not trying to lecture) but grams are units of mass, and gram∙in are units of imbalance. Do you happen to know if they meant "9.6 grams at some correction radius (then what radius), or 9.6 gram∙in? If that's too confusing to try to find out, don't worry about it, it's just for my own curiosity to compare what you found with tolerances I have been told.
thanks again for updating. Glad you got that TT back in too!
do you happen to have a balance sheet or print out they might have given you, or is this from their word of mouth? The reason I ask is sometimes a balance shop will give a reading like that "as from the computer screen". For instance, some software will have you input a correction radius (the radial distance you will be removing or adding weight) and the diameter of a hole you may be drilling to remove weight, and then it will give you a reading of how much mass to remove (or add) at that given radius to get it down to zero. So it could read "5 grams" at a correction radius of 7 inches, and the tech might say it's "5 grams out". In reality, that is 35 gram∙in of imbalance. (really not trying to lecture) but grams are units of mass, and gram∙in are units of imbalance. Do you happen to know if they meant "9.6 grams at some correction radius (then what radius), or 9.6 gram∙in? If that's too confusing to try to find out, don't worry about it, it's just for my own curiosity to compare what you found with tolerances I have been told.
thanks again for updating. Glad you got that TT back in too!
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 33
From: Virginia Beach VA
I hope they matched both the magnitude AND orientation of that imbalance. If they rotated the PP around until they achieved 15 grams (at whatever correction radius) I hope they ended up with it in the same orientation relative to the mounting position to your crank.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,, Keep you old flywheel just incase there is and issue... The proof will be in the first start and rev..
Please keep us informed on your progress and the end result. This is an interesting read and developing end result.
Good Luck.
Bill
Please keep us informed on your progress and the end result. This is an interesting read and developing end result.
Good Luck.
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Thanks for the input.
Rob
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
A couple of things can cause a grind.
- Clutch not fully disengaging ( If you have an adjustable master, gie it a little more rod length)
-Dirty worn transmission fluid
- Still have a little air in the master/slave cyl
Give those a look and see what you find.
BC
- Clutch not fully disengaging ( If you have an adjustable master, gie it a little more rod length)
-Dirty worn transmission fluid
- Still have a little air in the master/slave cyl
Give those a look and see what you find.
BC