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I installed my Hurst into my 2003 (16 miles!) and spent a lot of time thinking and working on the gate spring settings. The result is very good.....this shifter feels better than my Kirban in my 2000 FRC. All shift directions, up and down, are easy and precise, and reverse ain't bad, either. I had to really slap the Kirban over and up, but the Hurst (with my settings) can be "placed" into reverse.
I used the light tension springs, both the inner and outer, on both sides. It's easy to determine the heavies from the lights...just squeeze 'em. And I think the heavy springs were darker, too, by a little bit.
Then I set the spring plugs to three full turns in after they just begin to catch a thread when installing. This amount of preload in the springs helps you get across the all-important 2-3 gate, but doesn't prevent you from 6 to 3 or whatever...and reverse is easy as I already mentioned.
That's it. You may want to try other settings (I did), but this setup gives me flawless shifting.
Howver, the shifter is rattling......I plan to back the stop bolts out a tad. I have them set to s-t-o-p the shifter stick, so they are touching in 2, 3 and 4. If that doesn't work, I'll have to start trying all the various Forum fixes we've discussed a million times. Wheel weights first.
Yep........I'm afraid that might be the case, but hoping like hell is isn't. On the other hand, some Kirbans rattled like a jackhammer but mine was dead quiet.
Does anybody out there have a Hurst that doesn't rattle?
Does anybody out there have a Hurst that doesn't rattle?
:seeya
My Hurst has been installed for a couple of months and and over 1000 miles and it does not rattle. I'm using an aftermarket shift **** and it works great. I used the outer lighter springs and the taller shifter **** makes it a solid and firm exersice through the gears. Wouldn't change a thing. :yesnod:
No rattle on mine either. I do have a aftermarket **** on it as well as some extra insulation around the shaft to cut down on the noise. I just gotta go back in there and change out the tension springs, because the factory setup is a little to stiff for my preference.
all aftermarket shifters will vibrate and emit some noise as compared to stock. especially with a stock **** which is light and somewhat hollow. we use lead tape weights made for wheels and apply these to the shaft in layers of shifters to add mass and help with quietness. it works very well and its a cheap mod. i guarantee the Hurst vibrates and emits the least amount of noise than the other two brands. i have personally installed all of these and the Hurst seems to be the best one out there...
emailed Hurst and they responded by saying that the rattle is normal with after market shift kits do to not having all the insulating material in the handle. I emailed back disagreeing and never heard anything again. The distributer that I got it from told me that it is normal and a replacement probably wouldn't do much for me. Basically it's a crap shoot in getting one with the correct tolerances. Unfortunately with my luck I would have to go threw several and probably would break something on the center section of the consol and then I would be really P----d. :mad
...Howver, the shifter is rattling......I plan to back the stop bolts out a tad. I have them set to s-t-o-p the shifter stick, so they are touching in 2, 3 and 4. If that doesn't work, I'll have to start trying all the various Forum fixes we've discussed a million times. Wheel weights first.
You can take the stop bolts out all together if you like. The T56 has internal stops. B&M doesn't even ship the Ripper with stop bolts anymore :cheers:
Mine doesn't rattle at all, dead silent. I'm using an aftermarket shift ****, too.
But then, I hate the thing. I haven't taken it back out of the car yet, because I'm still trying to give it a chance. I found the stock shifter lets me shift faster and I miss gears less. Yes, I do believe it's impossible to miss 2nd-3rd with the Hurst, but I never missed it with the stock one, either. But with the hurst, I screw up 4th to 5th (and not shifting fast) all the time. Makes normal driving a real bitch.
Honestly, the **** has a lot to do with it (rattle). I know from experience. I love my Hurst, trouble free and precise! My shifts are lightning quick and have yet to miss a gear, I couldn't say that with the stock POS :U :cheers: :smash: :smash:
Mike99HT--yes, I'm aware the shifter doesn't *need* the stop bolts, but I'm a big believer in them since my Mopar tranny powershifting days. Back then, it was a Hurst SuperShifter w/ Reverse Lockout! :yesnod: I prefer the feeling of hitting a stop bolt, if possible, which is why I picked the Hurst over the Ripper. I like the "clack" sound (there's the problem!) and the feel of the positive stop. My Kirban had stop bolts, and I set them similarly aggressively, but no rattle. So, like jimman said, it's a crapshoot to get a quiet unit.
Chadwick--I understand where you're coming from, as my Kirban was murder on the 4-5 shift. But may I suggest you make the spring and tension changes that I detailed at the top of this post,or go even lighter on the springs than I did. I know of one forum member that uses only the light outer springs with no inners. Hopefully, you'll find that all the shifts are effortless after this adjustment. You can do that work by just popping the top boot and working around the rubber noise boot. (you probably already know that, but I'm just mentioning it for info for others)
Yeah, that's probably a worthwhile exercise just to see how much improvement I get with the softer springs. I put my wife in the car last night, and she could shift with what's there now, but just barely. That's probably a good indicator it's a bit too tight right now :)
Another thing you guys should check for rattles -- the clip behind the ash tray area where you attach the torx screw. That one has rattled on me a few times, and it always sounds like it's coming from the shifter. It's easy for it to dislodge when you've trying to put the center console back on.
I took out the heavy outer spring and replaced it with the lite one. Not to bad on pulling over now, if I wanted the exercise I'll do the gym. Rattle didn't change, one just has to hold the shift lever in the right position to keep it quite, not sure yet if it's worth all this. 50K car with rattle a bit embarrassing to say the least. What irritates me is I get sucked in on all these, "You got to have this" stuff. With all of the Techno wana-bees, spouting lowering, Non-runflats, shifters, front wheel size, shocks, cams, intakes, thermostats you name it, it's a wonder the car runs at all. The bottom line I think just enjoying a terriffic car that has underwent one hell of a lot of testing and leave well enough alone. That's my 02 and future. Now if only my gas gauge worked, now that could use a little modding. :crazy:
I removed the rubber "doughnut" from the stock shifter, reversed it and put it on the Hurst. I do not have any vibration and the noise and heat are minimal. - C.
chadwick--with my settings, I can actually "place" the shifter in reverse...I don't have to slap it like a redheaded stepchild like I did with the Kirban.
jimman--I basically agree with you. I'm not much of a modder....even though I'm a hotshot mechanical engineer and former "very serious", sponsored drag racer, I have to think that the bazillions of hours and dollars GM spends on our cars to make them pretty darn good/dependable/drivable is better than I can do in my garage with the latest bolt-on of the week. But.....the stock shifter is amazingly bad to an enthusiast, IMHO.
This Forum is all about modding, sometimes heavily. However, we must remember that for 98 percent of all C5 buyers, the car is awesome and probably overwhelming just the way it left Bowling Green.