Ground Point(s) for RF Unit
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Ground Point(s) for RF Unit
I keep getting the same codes popping up for the BO RFA (U1016, U1064, & U1096) and want to check the ground(s) for the RF actuator. Does anyone happen to know which ground point(s) are connected to the unit?
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From: Phoenix area, AZ
Thank you. That ground is one of the few that I haven't gotten to yet for cleaning so I figured I'd just kill two birds with one stone. I'm hoping it's the ground, but I have a feeling the codes are popping up because of my aftermarket alarm & key fobs. Nothing ever stops working; the codes just keep popping up at random times and it's always the same three.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Straight from the FSM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Phoenix area, AZ
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
1016
1056
1064
1096
I strongly suspect this is but ONE of the reasons GM decided to do away completely with an owner/operator being able to directly read/reset DTC codes in both the C6 cars as well as the C7s.
Far too much confusion and "complaints" creating a huge waste of time and money both at the dealer level and the factory level as well. It was a "good idea" but essentially a case of TMI.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2012
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From: Phoenix area, AZ
I strongly suspect this is but ONE of the reasons GM decided to do away completely with an owner/operator being able to directly read/reset DTC codes in both the C6 cars as well as the C7s.
Far too much confusion and "complaints" creating a huge waste of time and money both at the dealer level and the factory level as well. It was a "good idea" but essentially a case of TMI.
Far too much confusion and "complaints" creating a huge waste of time and money both at the dealer level and the factory level as well. It was a "good idea" but essentially a case of TMI.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It's a perfect addition for someone like myself who can't afford to take the car to the dealer every time something isn't working correctly. Being able to self-diagnose has saved me thousands and enables me to own a C5 on a retirement budget because I can do my own repairs.
We, however, are "car guys" ready and willing to be able to perform hands-on repair and/or diagnoses along WITH the use of the appropriate Factory Service Manual. The vast majority of Corvette owners do not have the time, expertise, or ability to use the system to it's full advantage and to them it creates much confusion and false information floating around out there, ESPECIALLY in the secondary market. The myth, or false assumption, that pushing the "RESET" button on the DIC "fixes" the problem is but one example of what I'm speaking of.
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From: Phoenix area, AZ
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,, I learn a lot from ANY DTC that pops up. The DTCs U are usually ignored. They are sometimes caused by a LOW VOLTAGE issue.
Be it a weak battery, poor connection, bad ground or dirty ignition switch, something is causing that / those U series DTCs to trip.
If it were me, I would do this:
1. Have the battery fully tested. Check Reserve Capicity & CCA.
2. Put a DC Volt Meter directly on the battery terminals. Have an assistant cold crank the engine and observe the meter and see how far the voltage drops below 12 VDC.
3. Find the RFA Module fuse. Use the meter and measure the two test points on top of the fuse to CHASSIS GROUND and see what voltage you have when you turn the ignition ON and after you crank the engine. If the voltage ever drops below the module voltage threshold, it will shut down for a microsecond and throw a comms code.
4. The ground for that is G104 BUT,,, it also goes through Splice Pack SP 208. Its a good idea if everything checks out, go to the module and read voltage and ground there.
Bill
Be it a weak battery, poor connection, bad ground or dirty ignition switch, something is causing that / those U series DTCs to trip.
If it were me, I would do this:
1. Have the battery fully tested. Check Reserve Capicity & CCA.
2. Put a DC Volt Meter directly on the battery terminals. Have an assistant cold crank the engine and observe the meter and see how far the voltage drops below 12 VDC.
3. Find the RFA Module fuse. Use the meter and measure the two test points on top of the fuse to CHASSIS GROUND and see what voltage you have when you turn the ignition ON and after you crank the engine. If the voltage ever drops below the module voltage threshold, it will shut down for a microsecond and throw a comms code.
4. The ground for that is G104 BUT,,, it also goes through Splice Pack SP 208. Its a good idea if everything checks out, go to the module and read voltage and ground there.
Bill