which wheel bearings?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
You may want to consider these two tools.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU
I use them on almost all my pulling applications for suspension and steering. They work so much better than the hammer and fork, or other tools I have tried.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU
I use them on almost all my pulling applications for suspension and steering. They work so much better than the hammer and fork, or other tools I have tried.
Used one to pull the bearing from an Envoy a few years ago that my parents owned.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
Got the bearings done yesterday, it was a pretty simple and straight forward job. The HF ball joint separator wouldn't work, it wasn't large enough. Had to go to Auto Zone to rent the pickle fork. The biggest PITA was the bracket holding the parking brake and ABS sensor cable onto the hub. Those 2 15mm bolts were not easy to get to.
The spindle nut wasn't too bad, had a long breaker bar with a 1 foot cheater bar. Couldn't find the mm size but did find that 1 5/16" worked just fine. I think the mm would've been a 33. Auto shops had 32 and 34 but no 33, didn't even have a slot for 33.
Order of removal:
-wheel
-caliper
-caliper bracket
-rotor
-spindle nut
-tie rod
-ABS/parking brake bracket
-upper ball joint
-lower ball joint
wheel bearing hub is held on by 3x T55 bolts. They weren't too difficult to get off. Torque back on with red loctite to 96 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Reinstall the spindle nut with red loctite to 140 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Took me about 4 hours from start to finish. First side took longer as I didn't know how I was going to attack this. Second side went pretty quick. Going to the store to get the pickle fork cost me about 45 minutes. Ran out of daylight, working under the headlamp slowed me down a lot. If it weren't for those factors, I think 3 hours would've been realistic if I had started earlier and had the pickle fork to start with.
No more groan from the rear. Only noise I hear is the Ti exhaust.
The spindle nut wasn't too bad, had a long breaker bar with a 1 foot cheater bar. Couldn't find the mm size but did find that 1 5/16" worked just fine. I think the mm would've been a 33. Auto shops had 32 and 34 but no 33, didn't even have a slot for 33.
Order of removal:
-wheel
-caliper
-caliper bracket
-rotor
-spindle nut
-tie rod
-ABS/parking brake bracket
-upper ball joint
-lower ball joint
wheel bearing hub is held on by 3x T55 bolts. They weren't too difficult to get off. Torque back on with red loctite to 96 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Reinstall the spindle nut with red loctite to 140 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Took me about 4 hours from start to finish. First side took longer as I didn't know how I was going to attack this. Second side went pretty quick. Going to the store to get the pickle fork cost me about 45 minutes. Ran out of daylight, working under the headlamp slowed me down a lot. If it weren't for those factors, I think 3 hours would've been realistic if I had started earlier and had the pickle fork to start with.
No more groan from the rear. Only noise I hear is the Ti exhaust.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Got the bearings done yesterday, it was a pretty simple and straight forward job. The HF ball joint separator wouldn't work, it wasn't large enough. Had to go to Auto Zone to rent the pickle fork. The biggest PITA was the bracket holding the parking brake and ABS sensor cable onto the hub. Those 2 15mm bolts were not easy to get to.
The spindle nut wasn't too bad, had a long breaker bar with a 1 foot cheater bar. Couldn't find the mm size but did find that 1 5/16" worked just fine. I think the mm would've been a 33. Auto shops had 32 and 34 but no 33, didn't even have a slot for 33.
Order of removal:
-wheel
-caliper
-caliper bracket
-rotor
-spindle nut
-tie rod
-ABS/parking brake bracket
-upper ball joint
-lower ball joint
wheel bearing hub is held on by 3x T55 bolts. They weren't too difficult to get off. Torque back on with red loctite to 96 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Reinstall the spindle nut with red loctite to 140 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Took me about 4 hours from start to finish. First side took longer as I didn't know how I was going to attack this. Second side went pretty quick. Going to the store to get the pickle fork cost me about 45 minutes. Ran out of daylight, working under the headlamp slowed me down a lot. If it weren't for those factors, I think 3 hours would've been realistic if I had started earlier and had the pickle fork to start with.
No more groan from the rear. Only noise I hear is the Ti exhaust.
The spindle nut wasn't too bad, had a long breaker bar with a 1 foot cheater bar. Couldn't find the mm size but did find that 1 5/16" worked just fine. I think the mm would've been a 33. Auto shops had 32 and 34 but no 33, didn't even have a slot for 33.
Order of removal:
-wheel
-caliper
-caliper bracket
-rotor
-spindle nut
-tie rod
-ABS/parking brake bracket
-upper ball joint
-lower ball joint
wheel bearing hub is held on by 3x T55 bolts. They weren't too difficult to get off. Torque back on with red loctite to 96 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Reinstall the spindle nut with red loctite to 140 lbs. on the torque wrench.
Took me about 4 hours from start to finish. First side took longer as I didn't know how I was going to attack this. Second side went pretty quick. Going to the store to get the pickle fork cost me about 45 minutes. Ran out of daylight, working under the headlamp slowed me down a lot. If it weren't for those factors, I think 3 hours would've been realistic if I had started earlier and had the pickle fork to start with.
No more groan from the rear. Only noise I hear is the Ti exhaust.
Oh and yeah, it's a 33mm
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
