which wheel bearings?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
which wheel bearings?
2003 Z06.
Going to do the rear wheel bearings. Been looking online and looks like I have the following choices:
Raybestos Professional Grade for $123
Timken for $140
SKF for $150
Or should I go with one of the chain stores?
Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore.
What would you guys do?
Does anyone have the part number for the rear axle spindle nut and know what size socket is needed?
Any tips on this? I've looked at a few YouTube videos and while it doesn't seem difficult, it does seem somewhat tedious. Looks like it will take a couple of hours for each one.
Going to do the rear wheel bearings. Been looking online and looks like I have the following choices:
Raybestos Professional Grade for $123
Timken for $140
SKF for $150
Or should I go with one of the chain stores?
Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore.
What would you guys do?
Does anyone have the part number for the rear axle spindle nut and know what size socket is needed?
Any tips on this? I've looked at a few YouTube videos and while it doesn't seem difficult, it does seem somewhat tedious. Looks like it will take a couple of hours for each one.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
2003 Z06.
Going to do the rear wheel bearings. Been looking online and looks like I have the following choices:
Raybestos Professional Grade for $123
Timken for $140
SKF for $150
Or should I go with one of the chain stores?
Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore.
What would you guys do?
Does anyone have the part number for the rear axle spindle nut and know what size socket is needed?
Any tips on this? I've looked at a few YouTube videos and while it doesn't seem difficult, it does seem somewhat tedious. Looks like it will take a couple of hours for each one.
Going to do the rear wheel bearings. Been looking online and looks like I have the following choices:
Raybestos Professional Grade for $123
Timken for $140
SKF for $150
Or should I go with one of the chain stores?
Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore.
What would you guys do?
Does anyone have the part number for the rear axle spindle nut and know what size socket is needed?
Any tips on this? I've looked at a few YouTube videos and while it doesn't seem difficult, it does seem somewhat tedious. Looks like it will take a couple of hours for each one.
Socket is 33mm
Nut - # 10257766
The TSB calls for new axle nuts.
1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque is 140 ft-lb.
The only PITA that I came across when I did mine was breaking the bolts loose that hold the Bearing Hub assembly to the spindle. 96 lb ft of torque and Loctite hold those suckers on there !
Last edited by SG Lou; Nov 16, 2014 at 10:17 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Left or Right, they are both the same
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I chose Timken when i did the fronts on my Z06. I have been happy with them. You may want to check the Autozone prices. Back when I did mine about 2 years ago, Autozone had a better price than online stores.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
I have a link to an SKF warehouse distributor, who's prices are quite good, but I can't mention it here because they're not a Forum Sponsor...but the OP has posted a pretty good price for the SKF units.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
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From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I am guessing by the price posted he is just talking the regular SKF bearings. If I was going to spend the money especially on the rears, I would get the HD SKF. They are a better design and should handle more abuse.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 720
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From: Fort Wayne Indiana
Jason
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
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From: Fords, NJ
Guys , Edmond, the OP stated, " Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore."
If all the above holds true and he's seriously thinking of selling it then the Raybestos Units fit the bill.
If all the above holds true and he's seriously thinking of selling it then the Raybestos Units fit the bill.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Guys , Edmond, the OP stated, " Car is not driven daily, is not tracked, just an occasional driver at this point and quite honestly, might be getting rid of it as I don't enjoy driving it that much anymore."
If all the above holds true and he's seriously thinking of selling it then the Raybestos Units fit the bill.
If all the above holds true and he's seriously thinking of selling it then the Raybestos Units fit the bill.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 239
From: Redondo Beach CA
I have always enjoyed a fine bearing and see little need for selecting second string stuff , unless you think your car will be one of the ones that won't make it past the junk yard one of these days. A car needs stewardship to keep it from being just another broken vette under a tarp.
Of course used corvette demand will be down somewhat when all cars are electric, computer driven at max speed all the time and gas costs 29 bucks a quart.
Of course used corvette demand will be down somewhat when all cars are electric, computer driven at max speed all the time and gas costs 29 bucks a quart.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
You're right, a few bucks more wouldn't hurt so I went the better route.
Looking at videos online, the job doesn't look too complicated. Just have to go to HF to get a ball joint separator.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
I haven't looked too closely at the C=5's rear spindles, but on many cars, there is frequently a "flat" on the spindle, that you can give a good whack with a dead blow hammer, and the ball joint's stud will release....with the nut loosened, of course. The risk you run with using a "pickle fork", is tearing the ball joint's rubber boot.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU
I use them on almost all my pulling applications for suspension and steering. They work so much better than the hammer and fork, or other tools I have tried.