So my cluster about 9 months ago stopped working, turned the car off and started it back up and the cluster started working. Been working on the car for the past 6 months everything worked when I started it the other day I went to load it on the trailer to get tuned and the cluster is completely dead except check engine light,me brake and seatbelt indicator. I have checked all the fuses in the car. Started checking grounds. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Damien

 

Do your gauges sweep on start up? If so it's probably a communication problem. Bill Curlee knows the data bus system well.
Have you ever had water intrusion problems?

 

Gauges do not sweep or anything they are completely dead. How would I contact Bill Curlee? When you say water intrusion? The car is garage kept since I have owned it for about the last year. Prior to that I can not speak for it.

 

When he says water intrusion he means primarily water getting into the BCM and serial bus Star connectors area in the passenger side. Normally due to the Cowl or A/C udders being clogged.

My first guess is that the IPC is going south on you but more diagnostics are needed. Not at home to start help with diagnostics right now.

If everything else controlled by the BCM and PCM works fine it supports my IPC theory.

 

Read the DTCs that are being displayed and post your DTCs. I have a hand full of things to have you try but having a list of the most recient DTCs will point us in the most correct direction..

Heres how to read the DTCs from the drivers seat:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here are some very good sites that explains the DTCs:

http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

So if my cluster is the issue I have removed it and tested to have power to the back of the cluster. Is there anywhere that can repair my cluster?

 

The cluster is modular. There are several components that either connect directly to the main board or ribbon connect.

If it were me, I would take it apart and look for obvious issues or damage. I do not know of any place that specifically repairs the module,, however, If you have an obvious place thats damaged, go to a local TV repair shop and see if they can attempt repair.

Other than replacing the entire module, your options are limited.

You can find USED modules and I "think" you can still get a new one.

Its a plug and play replacement. You will need to get the mileage set by a licensed facility that has that capability.

Check out these post:

- C5 Gage Cluster disassembly - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380674

- C5 Gage Cluster Post - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380878

 

Yeah I have ready opened it up and don't see anything that is obviously wrong or burnt up. Wish there was a way to test the cluster before purchasing a new one?
Thanks,
Damien

 

Are you positive you have proper power and ground at the module connector?

 

I bought a used cluster for my inventory and it was only $200. Make sure if you have HUD you get a HUD enabled IPC.

Here are some IPC repair shops that you could talk to. Never used any of them myself.

http://asapspeedometerrepair.com/ (Forum recommended)

http://www.instrumentclusters.com/

http://www.gminstrumentcluster.com/a...te-automotive/

http://www.sotelectronics.com/repair_gm_ins.php3

 

I tested power in the vehicle using this diagram. http://corvetteforum.shelor.net/Diag...ml#tab1-653594 I am going to test the cluster on my bench tonight and see what I come up with if it has power than it should work. Once I test wiring on my bench I will let everyone know what I find thanks for the guidance.

 

Anyone know a way to check the IPC? Would like to see its my cluster is bad before sending it off.
Thanks,
Damien

 

If you power it up, it should sweep and then go to ZERO on all gages. You would need sensors and the BCM to test other functions.

Bill

 

So tonight I installed the cluster and started the car the kPH was flickering. As well as some most all the other indicator lights seemed to get brighter if I reved the engine some. To me this tells me it's a ground. I checked the one in the drivers foot well as from what I have read that's where they state it grounds to. Cleaned them up and nothing. I believe the cluster is good just at a loss on where else to look. Thanks for the assistance

 

As you power up the IPC, monitor the IPC fuse with a meter (FUSE Test point to chassis ground) and see if the voltage drops off significantly. If all is good, it should NEVER read anything less than full battery voltage measured on the battery terminals.

Bill

 

So I was able to swap a friends cluster in and everything works. Looks as though the cluster itself has issues it will be going out in the mail to be repaired.
Thanks for all the assistance,
Damien

 

Very good, thanks for the Forum update.

 

Hi Bill,

I think you answered in your post what I was asking of another member on my thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-diagram.html
(see last post there for my question).

It appears you've bench teseted a C5 IPC before. As I thought having repaired and / or tested similar GM digital clusters (Olds Toronado 1987-89) I was expecting to at least see something indicate the supposededly working fine used IPC I got on Ebay (complete with all switches ad bezel) to do something when 12v applied to A 13, 14 and ground to B13, 15. Although th above diagram doesn't show pin 15 gnd, it is shown on the main IPC diagram and the connector pinout.

Aside from analog gauge needle deflection, should there not also be at least some llumination of LEDs, bulbs, or the DIC flashing on for a moment as well? This IPC sat in a garage on a shelf for two years (found out after I bought it and this was the seller's reasoning why it should still be working...). I also had a pungent almost putrid smell emanating from the HV metal box when I received it, had a ribbon cable that is pinched between the two white plastic housings (separating the motherboard from the IPC gauges). I'm in the process of getting my money back with Ebay's help on this. I have 35+ years as an electronic tech, same years as a journeyman electrician, and years of experience in auto electrical systems and wiring so I know how to power up an IPC and this IPC is a DOA IMO, but this guy swears it was working. However, as I allude to; "working when I removed it two years ago", does not equate to working and tested good at time of listing...