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P0133 and P0153

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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:12 AM
  #1  
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Default P0133 and P0153

I get these codes on a car I just bought with 4500 miles. It does have longtube headers. If I just keep clearing them, is it going to hurt anything? With the PCM make adjustments to make the car run rich? It did come with a handheld programmer. Could I make the O2 sensors ready or delete them? Thanks for any help...
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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It's usually not a big with headers. You typically get the faults when idling. Many tuners will turn off those codes.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
It's usually not a big with headers. You typically get the faults when idling. Many tuners will turn off those codes.

Its caused mainly because the 02 sensors don't sit as far down in the bung on LT's as they do on the factory exhaust and don't get the same amount of exhaust flow by them. Just have those codes turned off.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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I think it is PO1133 and PO1153. I have heard that putting rear 02 sensors in the front bungs can fix this issue. You will need adapters to do this. Racetronixs sells a set for about 35 shipped.
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Old Nov 27, 2014 | 08:18 PM
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P0133, P0153, P1133 and P1153 are very common codes when LT Headers are installed. Just set them to no error reported & uncheck the ses box in the tune. Different O2's might be a temporary fix at best.

Russ Kemp
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 12:04 AM
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No you should not simply delete these codes----They are for both the right front and left front 02 sensors----Your ECM sets and self adjusts all the P/T fuel ratio based on what the front 02's are saying----You can delete the rear 02 sensors and codes as the rear ones have no affect on fueling the engine---They are there strictly to report the condition of your cats
You need to know IF your front 02's are going bad--The fueling may go either way rich and make the engine lazy or way lean and that can ruin your engine
LT headers are the culprit for failing front 02's The 02 bung locations get moved up to 3' further back and they end up NOT heating up correctly and fouling--or read incorrectly
As mentioned many people will install the rear 02's onto the front locations as a fix---This helps---as the rears are more sensitive and heat up better
As an owner of LT's just be prepared to change them every few years---There are some tuning tricks that also help somewhat---but there is no 100% fix--
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 12:34 PM
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I believe I set mine to no MIL & no SES so there is no indication on the cluster but they still show-up in the code list if I check the codes.

It's just annoying if you leave them on when the car keeps throwing the DTC's and illuminating the check engine light.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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My tuner turned off the rears, checked to make sure the others were responding, then set them to ready. I get no more codes now...
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tblu92
No you should not simply delete these codes----They are for both the right front and left front 02 sensors----Your ECM sets and self adjusts all the P/T fuel ratio based on what the front 02's are saying----You can delete the rear 02 sensors and codes as the rear ones have no affect on fueling the engine---They are there strictly to report the condition of your cats
You need to know IF your front 02's are going bad--The fueling may go either way rich and make the engine lazy or way lean and that can ruin your engine
LT headers are the culprit for failing front 02's The 02 bung locations get moved up to 3' further back and they end up NOT heating up correctly and fouling--or read incorrectly
As mentioned many people will install the rear 02's onto the front locations as a fix---This helps---as the rears are more sensitive and heat up better
As an owner of LT's just be prepared to change them every few years---There are some tuning tricks that also help somewhat---but there is no 100% fix--
Setting the codes as I mentioned will not prevent the front O2's from keeping the car in closed loop. And because I leave the front O2 sensor low voltage, high voltage and no activity codes stock, you will still set an O2 code if one of the front O2 sensors fail.

I've helped many people that had the P0133, P0153, P1133 and P1153 codes that others couldn't fix. The so called fixes range from installing rear O2's, different brands of O2's and even drilling larger holes in the sensors. None of these fixes are permanent.

Setting these codes to no error reported is the only 100% fix.

Russ Kemp
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
Setting the codes as I mentioned will not prevent the front O2's from keeping the car in closed loop. And because I leave the front O2 sensor low voltage, high voltage and no activity codes stock, you will still set an O2 code if one of the front O2 sensors fail.

I've helped many people that had the P0133, P0153, P1133 and P1153 codes that others couldn't fix. The so called fixes range from installing rear O2's, different brands of O2's and even drilling larger holes in the sensors. None of these fixes are permanent.

Setting these codes to no error reported is the only 100% fix.

Russ Kemp


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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 03:49 PM
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Only problem if you set them to not report is that you won't know when they eventually completely fail and flatline-- When they flatline at .450 millivolts it will set ALL the front codes as well as several others--Including an open loop FAULT or 02 FAULT--Running rich with LT's will foul the 02's----- and when they foul--they don't work ----you will be getting NO fuel corrections via your fuel trims----
It's up to you if you are annoyed by the codes then delete the ones that are popping up---But be vigilant about sensing when they eventually fail completely
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tblu92
Only problem if you set them to not report is that you won't know when they eventually completely fail and flatline-- When they flatline at .450 millivolts it will set ALL the front codes as well as several others--Including an open loop FAULT or 02 FAULT--Running rich with LT's will foul the 02's----- and when they foul--they don't work ----you will be getting NO fuel corrections via your fuel trims----
It's up to you if you are annoyed by the codes then delete the ones that are popping up---But be vigilant about sensing when they eventually fail completely
He made sure they were reporting, then set to to ready. The rears have sims I believe. The car has no cats.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tblu92
When they flatline at .450 millivolts it will set ALL the front codes as well as several others--Including an open loop FAULT or 02 FAULT
If the O2 flatlined at 450 mv, it would set a P0134/P0154 no activity detected code. And anytime a O2 sensor code sets, the vehicle goes into open loop.

Russ Kemp
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
If the O2 flatlined at 450 mv, it would set a P0134/P0154 no activity detected code. And anytime a O2 sensor code sets, the vehicle goes into open loop.

Russ Kemp
That's kinda what I said---don't understand your point-All I am trying to say is if you delete ALL the front 02 codes you will never know that they have flatlined----
And that's exactly what I said--- when they fail completely the ECM goes into OL fault--
An OL fault is not shown with a DTC--- the only way to know it is in OL fault is to read the ECM with a data logger or a scan tool--
We are really saying the same things--only with different terminology
---I know who you are and always respect you input Russ---I think we are just being picky about terminology but in the end--we have the same response about this
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by tblu92
That's kinda what I said---don't understand your point-All I am trying to say is if you delete ALL the front 02 codes you will never know that they have flatlined----
Where did I say to delete all the front O2 codes? I just said to delete the insufficient & slow switching codes.

Russ Kemp
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
... I just said to delete the insufficient & slow switching codes.

Russ Kemp
OK, so do I have to go back to my tuner to do this, or can I do it with my scan tool? After I read the codes I deleted them. They don't come on often, and I'm replacing my front sensors with heated ones on Tuesday. (And I have LT's)

When they do come on, is that making my engine run rich? The trip computer says my mileage (since I had the codes) has dropped from 24 mpg average to 16. I know it's only approximate, but that's a serious drop... Gas is cheap now but it won't stay down.

Thanks.
Arden
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1998BlackPlasticToy
OK, so do I have to go back to my tuner to do this, or can I do it with my scan tool? After I read the codes I deleted them. They don't come on often, and I'm replacing my front sensors with heated ones on Tuesday. (And I have LT's)

When they do come on, is that making my engine run rich? The trip computer says my mileage (since I had the codes) has dropped from 24 mpg average to 16. I know it's only approximate, but that's a serious drop... Gas is cheap now but it won't stay down.

Thanks.
Arden
Yes, your tuner can easily delete the codes. Your scanner can only clear the codes, that is not the same as deleting them in the tune.

And when an O2 code sets, the car goes into open loop. So the fuel trims stop working=hard on fuel.

Russ Kemp
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
Yes, your tuner can easily delete the codes. Your scanner can only clear the codes, that is not the same as deleting them in the tune.

And when an O2 code sets, the car goes into open loop. So the fuel trims stop working=hard on fuel.

Russ Kemp
Thank you. I've contacted my tuner to have it done. My gas mileage has been crappy since the codes.

Arden
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 11:07 PM
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If the car has been OK for a while and is now throwing those codes and getting poor fuel mileage then it could just be an O2 sensor going bad. Good idea to try replacing them first.

You have a scanner so check that it's going into closed loop and then monitor the new O2 sensors and ensure they are switching or that the voltage is going back and forth <450mV and >450mV constantly while in closed loop.
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