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Pilot bearing installation

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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 03:46 AM
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Default Pilot bearing installation

Has anybody put together a more delicate tool/method for installing the pilot bearing? We had a bit of difficulty installing my rebuilt T56 and decided to pull the pilot bearing again and install a new one before trying again, to reduce the risk of catastrophic failure, but the new one (my second time doing a pilot bearing) wouldn't go in straight via the hammer and socket method. I don't have a used input shaft to pound it in with and I have no interest in a needle bearing exploding around my input shaft, so if you have success in this area, please chime in.

Thanks in advance, gentlemen.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rjwz28
Has anybody put together a more delicate tool/method for installing the pilot bearing? We had a bit of difficulty installing my rebuilt T56 and decided to pull the pilot bearing again and install a new one before trying again, to reduce the risk of catastrophic failure, but the new one (my second time doing a pilot bearing) wouldn't go in straight via the hammer and socket method. I don't have a used input shaft to pound it in with and I have no interest in a needle bearing exploding around my input shaft, so if you have success in this area, please chime in.

Thanks in advance, gentlemen.
Go rent a bearing installation tool from your local auto parts store. The flat bearing drivers work much better than the socket method.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 09:24 AM
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did you install it in the same orientation that the original one was?... maybe that has something to do with it not wanting to go in... I did mine with a socket and hammer and it went in with no problems
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 04:49 PM
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We install pilot bearings on a regular bases and by far this is the best I have found.

OTC 4410 Metric and Standard Master Bushing Drive Set

You can get them from Amazon and it's not that expensive.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
did you install it in the same orientation that the original one was?... maybe that has something to do with it not wanting to go in... I did mine with a socket and hammer and it went in with no problems
Yes

The first one went in easily and in the same orientation as the OEM one I removed, but the second one (replaced as a precaution after trans install failed) refused to go in straight

Originally Posted by redcycle13
Go rent a bearing installation tool from your local auto parts store. The flat bearing drivers work much better than the socket method.
Originally Posted by Rick@RKT56
We install pilot bearings on a regular bases and by far this is the best I have found.

OTC 4410 Metric and Standard Master Bushing Drive Set

You can get them from Amazon and it's not that expensive.
Thank you, gentlemen. That looks a lot less sketchy than lining it up by eye (on my back), wacking it with a hammer and socket, and hoping it goes in straight...

Rick, do you stick with the OEM-style needle bearing or do you install a bronze bushing as some suggest? Also, the bearing installs with seam on the engine side and the flat face towards the transmission, correct? I took mine apart a long time ago, but I seem to recall it being installed in that orientation.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 01:30 PM
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DO NOT! DO NOT use bushings. They will wear and will need to be replaced. Use GM bearing.

The radious side should face toward the back.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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I heated the crank flange with a propane torch till it was about 150 deg and chilled the bearing in the freezer. Sucker went right in without any issues. I do the same thing on the Dampener install. Heat the hub of the damper and

Just don't go crazy with the heat and DO NOT insert any thing in the end of the crank to displace the welsh plug that separates the oil side of the crank
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick@RKT56
DO NOT! DO NOT use bushings. They will wear and will need to be replaced. Use GM bearing.

The radious side should face toward the back.
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I heated the crank flange with a propane torch till it was about 150 deg and chilled the bearing in the freezer. Sucker went right in without any issues. I do the same thing on the Dampener install. Heat the hub of the damper and

Just don't go crazy with the heat and DO NOT insert any thing in the end of the crank to displace the welsh plug that separates the oil side of the crank
Thanks, guys; I just got home from the middle of nowhere, so I'm hoping to get it done tonight. I don't have a propane torch, but I have a pretty extreme heat gun and the bearing has been in the freezer for a while, so I think it should go in just fine.

Any suggestions on lining up the input shaft as well as possible before installation? I'd like to not have to do this again...
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 11:43 PM
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Unless you play the lottery and win A LOT,, your most likely NOT going to get it properly aligned..

You dont know ANY BODY that might have an alignment tool?? Any Corvette Shops in the area?

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 4, 2014 at 11:46 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 11:47 PM
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We will be offering steel clutch alignment tools soon and the proceed will be donated to St Jude's Children's research hospital.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 11:52 PM
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Rick,,,, Your the MAN!

Bill
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Rick,,,, Your the MAN!

Bill
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Unless you play the lottery and win A LOT,, your most likely NOT going to get it properly aligned..

You dont know ANY BODY that might have an alignment tool?? Any Corvette Shops in the area?

Bill
Originally Posted by Rick@RKT56
We will be offering steel clutch alignment tools soon and the proceed will be donated to St Jude's Children's research hospital.
I have the plastic clutch alignment tool that came with the clutch to ensure that the splines all line up during clutch installation, but the Corvette guy from the local dealership was the one helping me when we couldn't get the input shaft to install completely. I asked him if there was a tool to match angle of the input shaft with the clutch and crankshaft; he did not know of one.

We kept getting the input shaft to spline with the clutch, but the pilot kept hanging up on the edge of the bearing... I'm guessing we were just a hair off on driveline angle.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rjwz28
I have the plastic clutch alignment tool that came with the clutch to ensure that the splines all line up during clutch installation, but the Corvette guy from the local dealership was the one helping me when we couldn't get the input shaft to install completely. I asked him if there was a tool to match angle of the input shaft with the clutch and crankshaft; he did not know of one.

We kept getting the input shaft to spline with the clutch, but the pilot kept hanging up on the edge of the bearing... I'm guessing we were just a hair off on driveline angle.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1588462829
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 12:50 AM
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What's the benefit to this vs the plastic tool? I'm in if there's a good reason for it...
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rjwz28
What's the benefit to this vs the plastic tool? I'm in if there's a good reason for it...

The plastic alignment tool sometimes can bend and not align the clutch disc in correct position. The steel unit is same as your input shaft (because it is) and perfectly aligns the clutch disc and works everytime.
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Rick@RKT56
The plastic alignment tool sometimes can bend and not align the clutch disc in correct position. The steel unit is same as your input shaft (because it is) and perfectly aligns the clutch disc and works everytime.
I've done a few C5 clutch installs, and the last one I did the torque tube just would not go back in the car. It wound up being misaligned from using a plastic alignment tool. That clutch job took me forever to complete, and I wound up having to remove the entire twin disc clutch to get it aligned and installed properly.
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 02:09 PM
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I just finished my first clutch job. I separated the torque tube and the transmission.

I put the toque tube in, and got it almost all the way in then reconnected the transmission and bolted everything together. Seemed pretty easy that way, went back together easier then taking it apart.
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 04:24 PM
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In the past I've seen several clutch replacements go horribly wrong. Several of them were damaged pilot bearings, several damaged the clutch disk HUB by letting the weight of the entire TRANS/DIFFERENTIAL/TORQUE TUBE hang and bent the disk hub.

When I reinstalled my drive train in my 02 Z "MY SELF" I decided that would install the torque tube by its self and then install the trans/diff onto the Torque Tube. Went together VERY EASY.

If you install the clutch disk and pressure plate loose, install the alignment tool and carefully tighten up the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross fashion the alignment tool should slide in and out with EASE! If it does, the TT will also. Its really easy that way and the risk of damage to other clutch stuff is pretty much eliminated.



If you try to move the disk after the pressure plate is fully tightened, unless you have a STEEL INPUT SHAFT like Rick is offering, your never going to get the disk to move and properly aligned as the plastic alignment tool will snap or bend.


Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old Dec 20, 2014 | 10:29 AM
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Well said Bill & great advise, job will go much easier that way for the Do It Yourselfers .
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