98 C5. Several days ago, my fob failed to work. Replaced the battery, "relearned' the fob, everything was OK. Several days later, the same thing happened. Issues with the DIC have delayed relearning the fob again. The fob was purchased about 6 months ago. Fob has a GM part number. Any ideas?

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...80642063,d.eXY

 

I opened up your link last night and was filled with joy. Then this morning I opened up the FOB. Alas, there is no joy in Mudville.

My FOB is evdently a newer circuit board layout - the parts are all much smaller and of course the layout is different from what is shown in the link. Even when I was working with this kind of stuuf for a living, parts as small as the ones in my FOB were very difficult to work on with a conventional soldering iron, regardless of tip size.

 

You must not have a stock fob. The only difference in the 98/99 and the 2000 is the passive switch. 2001 and up is a smaller fob. Has someone upgraded your receiver to accept the newer style fobs?

 

I believe that I have a correct part - p/n 19299230 - which is a FOB without the switch. The FOB that I have with the switch has a different p/n, as one would expect, which has its own set of problems. The FOB that I am discussing worked flawlessly for 4, maybe 6, months, then started to have frequent problems.

 

That's the correct part number for a 2000, which will work fine with a 98 like yours. That's the type fob that shows exactly the problem you're seeing, and that soldering the IC chip shown fixes. I guess I'm not understanding what the difference is in yours and the ones being soldered.

 

I am delighted that you show that much interest. Tomorrow, I will try to get a picture. I suspect that GM kept the same p/n because the fit/form/function of the FOB remained unchanged even though the evolving supply chain drove a new layout for the printed circuit board as time passed.

 

A picture would be nice. Does it no longer have the small IC chip shown at the top right of the board? That's the main one for losing sync that needs soldering. It will be interesting to see the difference.

 

I had both key fobs crap out for a 1998 Corvette. I sent the fobs to c4fob@yahoo.com. Bree fixed them for a reasonable price and now both work fine.

 

Have you tried to RE SYNC the fobs when they stop working??

If you have a weak 12 VDC main battery, it can cause the fobs to lose SYNC and not function..

If you took the fob battery out, retrain the fobs and see if you can get them to work again. If they quit after that, do the resync function..

Press and hold both the lock and unlock buttons until the horn toots.

Bill

 

Here is a photo of the circuit in my FOB

Don't know if this worked, but here is my shot at it

 

Sorry, I've never seen a board like that.

 

I purchased a new fob like that from the dealer 5 months ago. Since new it will lose its connection. Sometimes I can re-sync pushing the lock / unlock at the same time. Sometimes it will not. When it does not, I can unlock the door with they key, then it starts working again, like using the key resets it. Very annoying. Happened today, got out of the car and locked it with the remote. Came back at lunch, would not unlock it or re-sync. Opened the door with the key, all is good(until the next time) Got to be an answer.

 

Resurrecting this thread since do not see any closure from the thread starter and I have the same exact problem including the same board for my fob show above in this thread (ACDELCO 19299230 GM OG Equipment 97-2000). I debated doing the conversation to 2001 and newer RFA/TPMS/Remotes when I put on my new wheels/tires but did not so here I am.

I did the solder trick found and this forum and mentioned in this thread, even though very small board but still same deal will loose sync, able to re-sync and or re-learn from options in DIC. I ended up buying a new fob which I installed few days ago, same part number 19299230 which worked decent until today it just lost sync, was able to re-sync.

I guess I am wondering about my main battery as Bill mentioned in this thread even though its newer I am questioning if it gets low at points for some reason then FOB looses sync. My car is very clean with no signs the battery ever leaked in the past which I have read about. I dont see it being the RFA issue using logic have no problems with my TPMS sensors, unless I am just ignorant and the RFA could go bad for remote only but never have issues loosing sync with TPMS.

Think I just typed myself into wondering about the strength of my battery more at this point, wondering how low the voltage would need to be to cause lost connection to the FOB.

Only codes I have found on my 99 since I have owned it are below which I assume some were due to loosing sync with the FOB:
BO-RFA U1096 H
BO-RFA U1064 H
BO-RFA U1016 H
U1016 H Loss of Communication with PCM
U1064 H Loss of Communication with BCM
U1096 H Loss of Communication with IPC

 

Ok,

I have the same xact problem ( 98 C5)... I just relearned both of my key fobs ( they work Now).. They are both GM fobs... They seem to work for a day or two sometimes not that long... and then they just stop working.. Until I relearn them... Once relearned all is good.. Just till they stop again... Key fobs are gm and the part no. is 10253839


Ant...

 

yup I see what your saying... Just opened up both of my fobs and those chips for sure need soldering.. I need to get a smaller iron..

 

Can you state what is necessary to upgrade those items for a '98?


TIA

 

cracks on the board from pressing the lock key too many times, too hard.