Clutch problem after H/C
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 63
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Clutch problem after H/C
After h/c install ive been having clutch problems in my c5z..it sticks to the floor.
I used the search buttom and found many users with the same problem as me.
Some users do the "drill mod", others say just keep the brake fluid as clean as posible and other solution could be the Tick master cylinder.
Why im having this issue after h/c install??
What is the best solution for this?
thanks in advance for your help
I used the search buttom and found many users with the same problem as me.
Some users do the "drill mod", others say just keep the brake fluid as clean as posible and other solution could be the Tick master cylinder.
Why im having this issue after h/c install??
What is the best solution for this?
thanks in advance for your help
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
With the added power, the stock clutch is overmatched, so install a good aftermarket clutch, and new GM hydraulic slave, and master cylinder, and call it a day. That other crap only works temporarily, or not at all.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 149
From: chicago area IL.
i had the same problem on a z28 after I up'd the HP stock clutch would get hot and I'd loose the peddle till it cooled (less then a minute usually)
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 22
From: Las Vegas NV
+3...dont waste time on money on those myths. You need an aftermarket clutch. Sucks...H/C feels great when you can bang gears though 💪😃
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
What clutch do you currently have? What other mods do you have? The issue with C5 clutch hydraulics is well know. I personally change my fluid 1-2 times a year or more if I track the car. The clutch lines are not far from exhaust heat sources in the c5 plus the slave is by the engine, that all contributes to contamination and break down of the fluid. Keeping it fresh and changed frequently is a must for proper operation. While I have aftermarket clutches I have not had an issue from day one with keeping the fluid fresh. One of the best mods would be a remote clutch bleeder so this becomes a very easy task.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,,, I did the heads cam thing and as soon as I did my very FIRST full power run, I had the same issue.
LESSONS LEARNED: When I removed the old clutch, I figured it would have been fried... My 02 Z only had 55K miles. The old clutch looked fine!
Nothing visually abnormal.
HOWEVER,, when I disassembled the master cyl, the inside of the master cyl was full of nasty clutch dust goop.
SO,, you can try this first:
Install a NEW, GM OEM slave Cyl and see if that solves your issue. If not, you will need a new one anyway.
I have 450 RWHP so, I went over board and installed a SPEC Twin disk.
Bill
LESSONS LEARNED: When I removed the old clutch, I figured it would have been fried... My 02 Z only had 55K miles. The old clutch looked fine!
Nothing visually abnormal. HOWEVER,, when I disassembled the master cyl, the inside of the master cyl was full of nasty clutch dust goop.
SO,, you can try this first:
Install a NEW, GM OEM slave Cyl and see if that solves your issue. If not, you will need a new one anyway.
I have 450 RWHP so, I went over board and installed a SPEC Twin disk.
Bill
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 22
From: Las Vegas NV
If your fluid is black, pedal feels funny/sticks under normal driving or car is leaking brake fluid from the bellhousing area...its possible your hydraulics are done. Otherwise if you keep researching it'll become pretty clear you need a clutch. Its your car...but I chased these demons down doing all the suggested things, not one made the slightest improvement and drove me nuts in the process. Mantic ER2 installed. Problem solved. At 460rwhp...best $750 i spent so far.
Last edited by Cheesecake 07; Dec 8, 2014 at 09:55 PM.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You were like me (after thought) and found EVERYTHING to be normal after a clutch swap) you will kick you self in the *** wondering if the MASTER CYL change would have resolved your issue AND allowed you to have an additional 30-40K miles on your OEM clutch!
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 4
From: cinnaminson n.j.
St. Jude Donor '14
Harry, I suggest you follow the above recommendations. I built my car all as one project, all bolt ons h/c and a monster level 2 clutch. I have shifted it repeatedly at 6800 rpm's with no problems. Save yourself the aggravation and just do it.
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,367
Likes: 1,272
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I agree, the stock clutch is just junk, period... I tried a complete fluid flush, expensive fluids, and a tick master which helped a little but didn't completely cure it... swapped to a twin disc and it shifts like butter now
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 149
From: chicago area IL.
your problem is probably the clutch fluid over heating (brake fluid) if you have headers, you can try to flush the old fluid out, use heat wrap on the clutch fluid lines and check to see that the line are not real close to the exhaust (i had one touching) all this might get you by for a little while but in the end your going to change the clutch from wear since the new HP is going to kill it
I had this same problem and installed a tick master adj master, new gm slave & monster stave 2 clutch and have been very pleased (knock on wood) no problems
I had this same problem and installed a tick master adj master, new gm slave & monster stave 2 clutch and have been very pleased (knock on wood) no problems
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
your problem is probably the clutch fluid over heating (brake fluid) if you have headers, you can try to flush the old fluid out, use heat wrap on the clutch fluid lines and check to see that the line are not real close to the exhaust (i had one touching) all this might get you by for a little while but in the end your going to change the clutch from wear since the new HP is going to kill it
I had this same problem and installed a tick master adj master, new gm slave & monster stave 2 clutch and have been very pleased (knock on wood) no problems
I had this same problem and installed a tick master adj master, new gm slave & monster stave 2 clutch and have been very pleased (knock on wood) no problems
I will change the clutch and the slave cylinder but not now...
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 99
From: Arlington Texas
I had this problem when I was bolt ons and cam. Put a clutch and slave cylinder in and it was perfect. The slave cant be changed without taking the torque tube out. I personally put a new slave in every time I do a clutch. They cost like $120 and it would cost a lot more to take the driveline back out to replace just a slave.
My vote would be to replace the clutch, slave and add a remote bleeder. Also make sure all new fluid goes in.
My vote would be to replace the clutch, slave and add a remote bleeder. Also make sure all new fluid goes in.