2002 auto battery issue
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: York PA
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
NEVER, NEVER,NEVER, NEVER, use any charger without a BATTERY connected to the car. If you do, you risk damaging PCM, BCM IPC and any other module.
Trust me,,,,, Ive seen it happen.
Chargers use a SQUARE WAVE output and the CARs electronics will PUKE on the difference between Square wave and PURE DC Voltage! The battery acts as a BUFFER between a charger and the electronics. Without that buffer,, problems will surface. Usually the very first things to happen is the stereo will come on and you will get a GARBLED pulsating output. The dash LEDs will pulsate... Bu that time you will KNOW you screwed up and remove the charger..
BC
Bill
Trust me,,,,, Ive seen it happen.
Chargers use a SQUARE WAVE output and the CARs electronics will PUKE on the difference between Square wave and PURE DC Voltage! The battery acts as a BUFFER between a charger and the electronics. Without that buffer,, problems will surface. Usually the very first things to happen is the stereo will come on and you will get a GARBLED pulsating output. The dash LEDs will pulsate... Bu that time you will KNOW you screwed up and remove the charger..
BC
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 27, 2014 at 08:39 PM.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Well my intent is to replace the existing battery and not have to re-program all of the codes I have set for seat adjustment, radio etc......so I am interested in HOW to maintain the codes i.e. and not have to re-code .....thanks for the comment on why to never use a charge without a battery ....?wondering if I could hook up a small battery to maintain the codes prior to replacing the battery? I did see a YOUTUBE vid on a procedure using a small 9 volt battery? all comments on this subject are very helpful....not a newbie to cars...just the Vette.....got it this past May...thanks again
NEVER, NEVER,NEVER, NEVER, use any charger without a BATTERY connected to the car. If you do, you risk damaging PCM, BCM IPC and any other module.
Trust me,,,,, Ive seen it happen.
Chargers use a SQUARE WAVE output and the CARs electronics will PUKE on the difference between Square wave and PURE DC Voltage! The battery acts as a BUFFER between a charger and the electronics. Without that buffer,, problems will surface. Usually the very first things to happen is the stereo will come on and you will get a GARBLED pulsating output. The dash LEDs will pulsate... Bu that time you will KNOW you screwed up and remove the charger..
BC
Bill
Trust me,,,,, Ive seen it happen.
Chargers use a SQUARE WAVE output and the CARs electronics will PUKE on the difference between Square wave and PURE DC Voltage! The battery acts as a BUFFER between a charger and the electronics. Without that buffer,, problems will surface. Usually the very first things to happen is the stereo will come on and you will get a GARBLED pulsating output. The dash LEDs will pulsate... Bu that time you will KNOW you screwed up and remove the charger..
BC
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Well my intent is to replace the existing battery and not have to re-program all of the codes I have set for seat adjustment, radio etc......so I am interested in HOW to maintain the codes i.e. and not have to re-code .....thanks for the comment on why to never use a charge without a battery ....?wondering if I could hook up a small battery to maintain the codes prior to replacing the battery? I did see a YOUTUBE vid on a procedure using a small 9 volt battery? all comments on this subject are very helpful....not a newbie to cars...just the Vette.....got it this past May...thanks again
Our shop has a small power pack that plugs into the ALDL when a car battery is changed. But its primary purpose is to keep the ECM powered so that codes aren't lost and there is no need for the ECM to re-learn stuff when the car is driven after a battery change. It also keeps radio security codes from locking out a radio if a car owner uses that feature.
I have removed the negative cable from my '02 and never lost the various settings. I think the important thing is the time taken to swap the batteries. If you have everything ready to go (hold-down clamp removed, wrenches ready to pull the cables), it should take no more than 20-45 seconds to swap the batteries.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Theres a B+ terminal on the under hood fuse box. Yours will have TWO wires under the nut. It gets power directly from the battery and supplies that fuse box and the other fuse box..
Just get another battery (Another car) and use jumper cables from that cars battery to connect to the C5 B+ terminal and Negative to chassis ground. The entire car will retain power and you will not loose anything.
Problem solved. I agree with "c4cruiser" Most of the settings will be retained BUT, you will reset ALL the emissions READY flags and it takes a lot of drive cycles to get them ready again. You wont pass emissions for a couple days if you remove the battery
Just get another battery (Another car) and use jumper cables from that cars battery to connect to the C5 B+ terminal and Negative to chassis ground. The entire car will retain power and you will not loose anything.
Problem solved. I agree with "c4cruiser" Most of the settings will be retained BUT, you will reset ALL the emissions READY flags and it takes a lot of drive cycles to get them ready again. You wont pass emissions for a couple days if you remove the battery
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
After purchasing the CTEK MUS 4.3 charger and the additional plug in for the cigarette lighter......battery issue is solved....battery is now on the mainatence charge.....to date, this seems like a greats addition to normal maintence for a car that gets out a few times.....
Theres a B+ terminal on the under hood fuse box. Yours will have TWO wires under the nut. It gets power directly from the battery and supplies that fuse box and the other fuse box..
Just get another battery (Another car) and use jumper cables from that cars battery to connect to the C5 B+ terminal and Negative to chassis ground. The entire car will retain power and you will not loose anything.
Problem solved. I agree with "c4cruiser" Most of the settings will be retained BUT, you will reset ALL the emissions READY flags and it takes a lot of drive cycles to get them ready again. You wont pass emissions for a couple days if you remove the battery
Just get another battery (Another car) and use jumper cables from that cars battery to connect to the C5 B+ terminal and Negative to chassis ground. The entire car will retain power and you will not loose anything.
Problem solved. I agree with "c4cruiser" Most of the settings will be retained BUT, you will reset ALL the emissions READY flags and it takes a lot of drive cycles to get them ready again. You wont pass emissions for a couple days if you remove the battery
