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I got the pcm and bcm back today. The company said they couldn't find anything wrong with either of them. so at least I know it's not them. Just so I understand completely.... If the wires in the doors are causing the issue or the power seats, removing the star connector with 4 wires should remedy the issue correct? Once I get some time I'm going to recheck the voltage at the fuses when I put everything back in as well.
The modules in the C5 COMMUNIATE via the SERIAL DATA BUS. If something on that bus is corrupting it,, its difficult to give you a FIRM (This is what will happen). All I can recommend is to, pop off the FOUR wire seria data buss (STAR) connector cap and see if the issue resolves. If it does,, the fault is one one of the three modules LDCM, RDCM or SCM searial data buss (WIRE).
The modules in the C5 COMMUNIATE via the SERIAL DATA BUS. If something on that bus is corrupting it,, its difficult to give you a FIRM (This is what will happen). All I can recommend is to, pop off the FOUR wire seria data buss (STAR) connector cap and see if the issue resolves. If it does,, the fault is one one of the three modules LDCM, RDCM or SCM searial data buss (WIRE).
Ok so It must not be any of those because when I remove the 4 wire cap my issues are still there... what would cause the instrument panel to stay on, and flash the service engine soon, low fuel, etc messages for a bit once the key is out?
I would recommend that you verify that you don't have a break in the wiring between the PCM and the Serial Bus Star Connector. Use a ohmmeter to verify.
Here is some info.
Star Connectors
Note it shows the PCM pin is #58 Dark Green wire on the PCM Blue connector.
I would recommend that you verify that you don't have a break in the wiring between the PCM and the Serial Bus Star Connector. Use a ohmmeter to verify.
Here is some info.
Star Connectors
Note it shows the PCM pin is #58 Dark Green wire on the PCM Blue connector.
If you need a connector view let me know.
copy that, how would I go about measuring it for continuity? Put one test lead on the wire at the star connector, and then find the wire at the pcm pin outs and put the second lead there?
That is exactly what I would do using an ohmmeter resistance measurement. You might have to rig up a longer lead for the meter on one end. Let us know what you get and we can go from there.
Just re-read your post 28 and you said all no comm meaning the whole serial bus is down and not just the PCM. If that is correct then you need to see if the serial bus is grounded somewhere. You could use the PCM pin 58 and measure to see if it is grounded by measuring resistance between there and a good ground location on the car.
That is exactly what I would do using an ohmmeter resistance measurement. You might have to rig up a longer lead for the meter on one end. Let us know what you get and we can go from there.
Just re-read your post 28 and you said all no comm meaning the whole serial bus is down and not just the PCM. If that is correct then you need to see if the serial bus is grounded somewhere. You could use the PCM pin 58 and measure to see if it is grounded by measuring resistance between there and a good ground location on the car.
Measured the green wire at the pcm and star connector, and it has continuity, meter read .2, propably from my wire rig I had to make. I measured pin 58 on the pcm connector to a couple of ground locations on the car and the meter read 73.6. So what does that mean? I also measures pcm ground pins 21 and 60 on the blue connector and the meter read .2.
I plugged everything back in and tried to start it. Still no comm, and the engine wouldn't even turn over this time bc the ignition relay is buzzing like hell again.
I plugged everything back in and tried to start it. Still no comm, and the engine wouldn't even turn over this time bc the ignition relay is buzzing like hell again.
READ THE VOLTAGE ON THE IGNITION RELAY when it buzzing and find out if you have low voltage on the coil and figure out why it low!!!
YEP>>> The test points on top of the fuse to GROUND.
Bil
sweet, wanted to make sure I'm doing it right! I never read a wiring diagram a day in my life before this happened lol. I'll check them in a hour or so once I put my daughter to bed
Measured the green wire at the pcm and star connector, and it has continuity, meter read .2, propably from my wire rig I had to make. I measured pin 58 on the pcm connector to a couple of ground locations on the car and the meter read 73.6. So what does that mean? I also measures pcm ground pins 21 and 60 on the blue connector and the meter read .2.
.2 is close enough to Zero to be OK. Indicates a good serial bus circuit from the PCM to the Star Connector
73.6 from this serial bus circuit to ground is NOT OK. This reading should be infinity. Go to the star connector and measure from the Green wire on that end to ground and see what you get.
Ok, so the starter fuse and the ignition fuse read the battery voltage(12.21) fuse 14(CRK) however, never stopped fluctuating from 7 all the way up to 17 back and forth, then when I turn the key it goes to 35. And the green wires on the star connector to ground read 5.2 for continuity on both.
For the resistance reading you seem to have a short to ground on the serial bus you need to track down.
Also you just can't get a reading of 17 volts when the car is not running and you only have 12.2volts at the battery. Variance at this time should be virtually nothing. With regard to the 35 volts something is screwy. I just cannot believe those voltage reading are correct.
The modules in the C5 COMMUNIATE via the SERIAL DATA BUS. If something on that bus is corrupting it,, its difficult to give you a FIRM (This is what will happen). All I can recommend is to, pop off the FOUR wire seria data buss (STAR) connector cap and see if the issue resolves. If it does,, the fault is one one of the three modules LDCM, RDCM or SCM searial data buss (WIRE).
ignition relay is still buzzing like hell, still wont crank.