harmonic balancer
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
From: Anaheim CA
harmonic balancer
So I'm pretty sure my balancer went out, just wondering if I should go after market or stock, my car is already stock and it will stay that way, if I go after market, what else would I need to get along with it such as belts or specific tools to install. Also how long should I expect a new stock one to last vs an aftermarket one
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 18
From: NORTHPORT NY
My 98 is stock I went with a aftermarket balancer. You will need a tool to pull the old balancer, and a tool to press the new one on. The steering rack can be pulled easily if you have a crowfoot flarenut wrench. There are many threads to help. I also would replace crank seal and use a arp bolt. The belts and pullies can be reused But, I replaced all of mine. Its really not that bad of a job. I can lend you the tool to press the new balancer on and the flare nut wrench. PM me if you need them and you will need a 250 lb torque wrench......
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
Definitely get an aftermarket balancer. The OEM ones fail frequently. My '99 failed at 30k miles.
TOPCATHR has some pretty good advice. It is not the easiest job, but I did it at home.
When I replaced mine the only things I changed were the balancer (Powerbond), an ARP bolt, and a new seal. Pretty much everything else is optional depending on their condition, costs, your guess as to risk, etc.
Good luck.
TOPCATHR has some pretty good advice. It is not the easiest job, but I did it at home.
When I replaced mine the only things I changed were the balancer (Powerbond), an ARP bolt, and a new seal. Pretty much everything else is optional depending on their condition, costs, your guess as to risk, etc.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
From: Anaheim CA
Definitely get an aftermarket balancer. The OEM ones fail frequently. My '99 failed at 30k miles.
TOPCATHR has some pretty good advice. It is not the easiest job, but I did it at home.
When I replaced mine the only things I changed were the balancer (Powerbond), an ARP bolt, and a new seal. Pretty much everything else is optional depending on their condition, costs, your guess as to risk, etc.
Good luck.
TOPCATHR has some pretty good advice. It is not the easiest job, but I did it at home.
When I replaced mine the only things I changed were the balancer (Powerbond), an ARP bolt, and a new seal. Pretty much everything else is optional depending on their condition, costs, your guess as to risk, etc.
Good luck.
What powerbond one did you use, I'm looking to keep it all stock sizes?
I was also looking at the one summit racing makes, looks good and price seems OK.
Would you recommend pinning the crank while I'm down there, will it prevent this happening again?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
From: Anaheim CA
My 98 is stock I went with a aftermarket balancer. You will need a tool to pull the old balancer, and a tool to press the new one on. The steering rack can be pulled easily if you have a crowfoot flarenut wrench. There are many threads to help. I also would replace crank seal and use a arp bolt. The belts and pullies can be reused But, I replaced all of mine. Its really not that bad of a job. I can lend you the tool to press the new balancer on and the flare nut wrench. PM me if you need them and you will need a 250 lb torque wrench......
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Their Race Performance quality balancer is PB1117-SS. I would recommend using an ARP bolt since it's re-usable if you ever have to remove it again. No need to pin if you're intent on staying stock. Pinning is recommended if you ever go the mod route and start adding higher horsepower, etc. It also does not "prevent" balancer problems, just balancer spinning on crankshaft.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
From: Anaheim CA
I can recommend the Powerbond also. I have the 25% underdrive, but they make a standard drive unit (OE diameter) as well. Be sure it's Corvette version as the A/C compressor drive is different than F-body cars.
Their Race Performance quality balancer is PB1117-SS. I would recommend using an ARP bolt since it's re-usable if you ever have to remove it again. No need to pin if you're intent on staying stock. Pinning is recommended if you ever go the mod route and start adding higher horsepower, etc. It also does not "prevent" balancer problems, just balancer spinning on crankshaft.
Their Race Performance quality balancer is PB1117-SS. I would recommend using an ARP bolt since it's re-usable if you ever have to remove it again. No need to pin if you're intent on staying stock. Pinning is recommended if you ever go the mod route and start adding higher horsepower, etc. It also does not "prevent" balancer problems, just balancer spinning on crankshaft.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The SS is their premium quality SFI certified unit and is also keyed for those that want to pin. Makes it easier. I believe it also has threaded holes for whan using a puller. That's the one I would use if I were going to all this trouble.