When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had read that a 6 inches puller was ok to remove the balancer. I bought one but it was too big. Even assemble in the shorter configuration (left one on picture). I bought at 4 inch powerbuild part number 648647. It worked very well. A rod will be fine for the install. Make sure you have 16x2 thread. I did not want to take any chance. I bought the installer kit for around $40. I'm glad I had it. It required a quite some force to put new balancer back. I had heated the center of the new balancer with an heat gun to 150 degrees, but maybe not enough. I should have put it in the oven.
I believe... GM has a specific tool you can order to remove and reinstall. Of course you need to order it from the dealer, overpri$ed. When I found that out, I went to the Vette service tech and he loaned me his Snap-on specific tool (made by a third party, btw) and it worked like a charm.
Just saying, it made the job easier than trying old my toolbox 'pulley pullers'...
One more note. The flywheel locking tool I had ordered had not arrived yet when I started the job. I did not have the strap wrench Bill shows on the above picture. I could only find a plastic one. Guess what, I broke it right away. I had read a guy using the serpentine belt wrapped around the balancer held by the idler pulley. But I was afraid of breaking the idle pulley. I wrapped the serpentine belt around the balancer but instead of using the idler pulley, I use an ½ pry bar to hold it. It worked very well. See on picture. Flywheel locking tool arrived the next day and I used it to install the new balancer.
Last edited by vette747; Mar 10, 2015 at 10:45 PM.
I had read that a 6 inches puller was ok to remove the balancer. I bought one but it was too big. Even assemble in the shorter configuration (left one on picture). I bought at 4 inch powerbuild part number 648647. It worked very well.
I used a 3 JAW puller to remove the old OEM dampener. I used a Home Made reinstaller using an old bolt (head removed and welded to SAE all thread)
Something I discovered LONG AGO is,, If you use HEAT, it will significantly aid in making the VERY VERY tight interfearance fit come off & on easire.
Just heat the damper HUB to about 150-200 deg and that will make things a LOT easier.
Ive done this dozens of times and it always works.
I use a propane torch OR a Wagner Heat Gun.
Bill
Why did you weld a stock bolt onto a larger rod? Would a long m16 x 2.0 work just as well?
I have a flywheel locking tool (the one where you have to drop the starter), a propane torch, impact wrench and some beer. Hopefully I don't need the beer before I get everything off.
Yes, a threaded rod will work too. Here is mine that I made which is similar to Bill's but uses threaded rod. The difference is I had to buy threaded rod to get the proper threads, Bill's uses the old bolt so you don't have to buy metric rod which usually is harder to find. Also below is the GM Service Manual Procedure. Don't follow LS1howto.com to install the damper. The piece shown as J41665-1 is a Kent-Moore tool that can be bought off of Ebay for around $10 and is used in other procedures as well. That would replace the washer stack I show in the photo. Note also that the measurements shown are for the GM pulley on a Vette, might be different for an aftermarket pulley but you can figure it out. I computed new values for my ATI pulley hub.
Yes, a threaded rod will work too. Here is mine that I made which is similar to Bill's but uses threaded rod. The difference is I had to buy threaded rod to get the proper threads, Bill's uses the old bolt so you don't have to buy metric rod which usually is harder to find. ..............
The threaded rod will work fine. I found the metric thread and nuts at our local Fastenal store.
I found my three jaw pullers at Harbor Freight. They had a multi-pack of 3 pullers for about $15. I don't remember, but I think the middle size one from that group worked fine.
Get the OEM/Chrysler harmonic ballancer puller from autozone. Part #27139...It works SOOO much better than the other 3 jaw pullers. They will loan it to you and you can return it when you're done.
Would this installer work? It looks like the m16x2.0 attachment would only work if the threads were in the front of the crankshaft. Aren't the threads kind of recessed into crank snout quite a ways?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
if you have a 6 speed all you need to do is put the front of the car on jackstands, pull the parking brake tight, put it in 4th gear, and chock the front of the rear wheels... I have swapped balancers a handful of times using this method and never had an issue... just be extra careful and keep an eye on the rear wheels when tightening the bolt to make sure it doesn't try to creep forward, I have never had this happen but you can never be too careful
if you have a 6 speed all you need to do is put the front of the car on jackstands, pull the parking brake tight, put it in 4th gear, and chock the front of the rear wheels... I have swapped balancers a handful of times using this method and never had an issue... just be extra careful and keep an eye on the rear wheels when tightening the bolt to make sure it doesn't try to creep forward, I have never had this happen but you can never be too careful
Crank pulley puller and installer
