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Tick MC Install Questions

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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 02:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Tick MC Install Questions

I've found a good writeup and it looks pretty damn easy. My question really is regarding the template. I see the reference hole and all that, but I'd heard that the template wasn't all that accurate? Is this true? Is there an adjustment I need to make to it? Also, does that rubber boot stretch enough or do you have to cut it to remove it from the stock MC and install to the tick?
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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Here you go in regards to drilling the holes.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1581572623


Blue loc tite on the allen bolts (you don't want them becoming loose.

The rubber boot I heated it first in boiling water & it fit just fine.

I removed my drivers seat for the install.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 08:55 PM
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Perfect! I'm going to clean a hole in the garage big enough to fit the car in and do this tonight. I miss driving the thing. Thanks!
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 10:37 PM
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Good luck!!! Getting the nuts back onto the pedal assembly bracket was the only difficult step. Do you have a speed bleeder?
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 10:42 PM
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I have a remote bleeder and a trained wife.
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
I have a remote bleeder and a trained wife.
You are all set then haha!! Good luck. I love my tick MC!
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 11:40 AM
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Be careful how you run the braided line to the slave. My line just failed on me, going to get it fixed today
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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How so? Did you let it rub on the exhaust or something?
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 11:53 AM
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Nope. I was bleeding the slave in order to try to fix my pedal drop issue. Finally start to get pressure in the pedal and fluid poured out of the rubber sleeve on the master line. I pulled the sleeve off and narrowed it down. The fluid was pushing through the braided line about 2" up from the quick connect. No visual indication it was broken, but it leaks
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Routing cause that?
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 12:20 PM
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Not sure, but I think it might have. Could just be a manufacturing defect
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Routing cause that?
Yes, if you are not carefull as to what you zip tie to or don't buffer/protect areas that the braided remote line comes in contact with.

There has been instances where it has chaffed & worn a hole into the gas line & other areas.

When & If I install one I would cover it with a protective heat sox sleeve in the critical routing area.
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 01:24 PM
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The Tick MC comes with a silicone heat sleeve already on the line.
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
The Tick MC comes with a silicone heat sleeve already on the line.
I was referring to the braided remote clutch bleeder line that (GeneralMotors4Life) was referring to & (brplatz) had chaffing/leak issues with.

I haven't seen one remote clutch bleeder line come with any type of heat/chaffing material with it.

The Tick's braided line does indeed come with a heat proof/non chaffing protective sleeve......but of course I added an extra (Kool-It )heat sleeve over that too.

When you have the Tic Mounted through the fire wall, leave the white plastic M/C reservoir & clamp off until you first slide on the round black GM fire wall boot.
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
I was referring to the braided remote clutch bleeder line that (GeneralMotors4Life) was referring to & (brplatz) had chaffing/leak issues with.

I haven't seen one remote clutch bleeder line come with any type of heat/chaffing material with it.

The Tick's braided line does indeed come with a heat proof/non chaffing protective sleeve......but of course I added an extra (Kool-It )heat sleeve over that too.

When you have the Tic Mounted through the fire wall, leave the white plastic M/C reservoir & clamp off until you first slide on the round black GM fire wall boot.
My complaints are not with the remote bleeder. It is with the actual line from the AN fitting on the Master Cylinder to the quick disconnect
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 12:06 PM
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Got it all in yesterday, pedal stroke is noticeably shorter now and the way I have it adjusted the pedal grabs a little higher off the floor. It's easier to get in gear from a stop and I can finally bang gears like a proper manual transmission car. Now to address the vibration issue at 3800 RPM. . .
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